sb67 Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 (edited) Haven't run my Hornby class 56 for around 6/7 months and in that time it seems to have seized completely. The motor tries to turn but the loco just doesn't move. Has any one else come across this? Do I just need some oil on the axles or could it be a sign of Mazak problems? The body comes off fine and there's no visible distortion. I've got another 56 that runs fine and that hasn't been ages either.Appreciate any advice.Steve. Edited July 23, 2017 by sb67 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamperman36 Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 try disconnecting the drive shafts and then try running the motor, if the motor runs freely then try stripping down the gear towers and cleaning all the old grease from the gears. Whilst doing this check all the gears for damage, once done put back the gears and relubricate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddys-blues Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 I agree with Tamperman, remove the bogies, strip out the shafts first and run the motor, more than likely the gears stuck or one is split. Best regards Craig. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 (edited) Haven't run my Hornby class 56 for around 6/7 months and in that time it seems to have seized completely. The motor tries to turn but the loco just doesn't move. Has any one else come across this? Do I just need some oil on the axles or could it be a sign of Mazak problems? The body comes off fine and there's no visible distortion. I've got another 56 that runs fine and that hasn't been ages either. Appreciate any advice. Steve. Steve Had exactly the same problem with some Hornby 50's and a 56. Most likely the problem is the worm drive gear in one or both bogie towers are seized up in their bearings. Removing the clip at the top of the bogie moulding will release the worm and bearings, free off the bearings until the worm can turn freely in it's bearings and then lubricate with some light oil or grease. The grease used in the factory dries up over a period, especially if the loco is not run regularly. Re-assembly can be a little tricky getting the drive shaft spline fit back together................ HTH Ken Edited May 4, 2017 by tractor_37260 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted May 4, 2017 Author Share Posted May 4, 2017 Cheers guys. I'm not scared to have a go but is there any instructions anywhere on the web? Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted May 4, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted May 4, 2017 Cheers guys. I'm not scared to have a go but is there any instructions anywhere on the web? Steve. Try the Hornby website where you can download exploded diagrams. For a bit of re-assurance, note the order you took things apart in and re-assemble them in reverse order. Hornby design models to be user serviceable, and you shouldn't run into too much trouble but take care not to lose small bits. If you do go astray, there's plenty help here! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tamperman36 Posted May 4, 2017 Share Posted May 4, 2017 if you go onto the Hornby website you can download a copy of the service sheets with an exploaded diagram of most locos, and you could try You tube for how to strip a loco. Bare in mind that most modern locos share a similar design with central can motor and flywheel, drive shafts and gear towers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted May 5, 2017 Author Share Posted May 5, 2017 Thanks guys. I'll have a look at the Hornby website and have a go. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
forest2807 Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 There might be a step by step guide on YouTube. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob D2 Posted May 5, 2017 Share Posted May 5, 2017 Steve Had exactly the same problem with some Hornby 50's and a 56. Most likely the problem is the worm drive gear in one or both bogie towers are seized up in their bearings. Removing the clip at the top of the bogie moulding will release the worm and bearings, free off the bearings until the worm can turn freely in it's bearings and then lubricate with some light oil or grease. The grease used in the factory dries up over a period, especially if the loco is not run regularly. Re-assembly can be a little tricky getting the drive shaft spline fit back together................ HTH Ken Had exactly the same issue with mine - soloution was as ken describes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted July 20, 2017 Author Share Posted July 20, 2017 I've been looking at the model and can anybody tell me how to unclip the drive shaft so I can check if the motor runs on it's own? Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted July 20, 2017 Share Posted July 20, 2017 As described in the quote below. The clip on cover over the worm at the top of the bogie gear tower retains the bogie in the block, and as the bogie drops out the drive shaft will disengage. Removing this cover also gives access to the worm and worm shaft bearings, the most likely components that will require clean up to free the drive train, so it's entirely necessary to do this. ...Removing the clip at the top of the bogie moulding will release the worm and bearings... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted July 21, 2017 Author Share Posted July 21, 2017 With a bit of trial and error I cautiously managed to get the clip off and found that these things had seized, not sure what they are called though. I cleaned a load of excess gunk off and re-oiled them and everything now works fine. Just need to sort out the springy contacts for the lights as they are not working consistently. Thanks for all the advice guys, I wouldn't have known what to do if it wasn't for the help and advice on here, I'm really pleased I've got my loco back. Steve. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted July 21, 2017 Share Posted July 21, 2017 The brass threaded component is the worm gear, it's on a steel worm shaft, which runs in the small cuboid blocks either side of the worm, which are the bearings. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted July 21, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 21, 2017 And the other bit is a constant velocity (CV) joint in a drive shaft. Glad your loco is now running ok, and you should have a bit more confidence to 'have a go' if thing go wrong with anything else. Trouble is, you'll start to see ways of improving and altering things to make them run better or look more realistic, and if you're not careful you'll become a modeller. We all started experimenting with what we thought were harmless social repairs and improvements because our friends were doing it and we wanted to fit in and look cool, and we all thought we could give it up any time we wanted, but we are all hooked, hopeless pathetic addicts. Look at us, and be warned... 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted July 22, 2017 Author Share Posted July 22, 2017 And the other bit is a constant velocity (CV) joint in a drive shaft. Glad your loco is now running ok, and you should have a bit more confidence to 'have a go' if thing go wrong with anything else. Trouble is, you'll start to see ways of improving and altering things to make them run better or look more realistic, and if you're not careful you'll become a modeller. We all started experimenting with what we thought were harmless social repairs and improvements because our friends were doing it and we wanted to fit in and look cool, and we all thought we could give it up any time we wanted, but we are all hooked, hopeless pathetic addicts. Look at us, and be warned... I think I'm on that slippery slope already! bought a rolling road a few months ago and I'm getting sidetracked with this DCC thing, tweaking settings and stuff and trying to fine tune things, where wiil it all end! Steve. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted July 22, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 22, 2017 I think I'm on that slippery slope already! bought a rolling road a few months ago and I'm getting sidetracked with this DCC thing, tweaking settings and stuff and trying to fine tune things, where wiil it all end! Steve. You're one of us. One of us, one of us... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 Worse than that. We are the bOOrg. Resistance is fOOtile. Prepare to be OOssimilated... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold The Johnster Posted July 22, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 22, 2017 Says 7mm of 009. Oh 'eck, you've got me thinking about 7 of 9 now, that's another day ruined, won't be able to put the last coat on the B set if my hands have gone all shaky... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
steviesparx Posted July 22, 2017 Share Posted July 22, 2017 (edited) And the other bit is a constant velocity (CV) joint in a drive shaft..... Hmmm, maybe a bit pedantic, but could I suggest it's a universal joint rather than a CV.....at least that's what they taught us in CSE Motor Vehicle Engineering.... Edited July 22, 2017 by steviesparx Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium New Haven Neil Posted July 22, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted July 22, 2017 I've just repaired one exactly the same - seized bearings on the worms. Oil and physiotherapy cured it! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted July 23, 2017 Author Share Posted July 23, 2017 Has anybody got any tips on putting the body back on and lining up the spring contacts that make the lights work. I get them to work then tighten the securing screws on the body and they don't work, then undo it get them to work and hey presto the other end doesn't work, frustrating to say the least! Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 Has anybody got any tips on putting the body back on and lining up the spring contacts that make the lights work. I get them to work then tighten the securing screws on the body and they don't work, then undo it get them to work and hey presto the other end doesn't work, frustrating to say the least! Steve. Yes been there had the same issues. It can be a real PITA ! You have to play around/adjust the springy contacts till you get a working result. If you don't plan to take the body off/on a lot, a permanent fix is to hard wire them using short lengths of wire - no more iffy lights ! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted July 23, 2017 Author Share Posted July 23, 2017 I thought of hard wiring them but I want to be able to take the body off, annoying thing is I cant see where they are touching in order to adjust them. I'll keep trying. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartynJPearson Posted July 23, 2017 Share Posted July 23, 2017 I can attest to the trial and error approach, had a job and a half to get the lights on my 56 working again after having the body off. Shouting "work, dammit" may have helped, but results are inconclusive. One thing I did do was to wipe over the contacts to make sure there wasn't a dirty patch that the spring was contacting with - again though it's inconclusive whether that helped or not. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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