DIORAMA & TEST TRACK ON WINDOWSILL

[MANTY1]

Good Afternoon

 

Have been playing around with wagon building, making card buildings  and collecting various loco's and other items over the years, but never got round to actually having a layout.

Built a base-board to fit on my home office window ledge. Dimensions 5'9" x 9.5".  Want to just run loco's up & down but also practice creating a diorama.

So many Ideas came and went, stopped and started and I also wanted to do a little shunting. So an Inglenook with extras seemd a good idea.

Faffed about for many years, other interests kept me away, but finally decided to get on with it.

This will be a first build, but I do have a workshop (which is used for Picture Framing) where I hope to build a larger end to end layout in the future.

 

Have been inspired by some of the models on this site, large & small and thought perhaps it's time to show what I am attempting, and hopefully get some advice along the way.

Am certain it won't be a quick build, especially as Summer is here (it is isn't it??)

 

So here are a few photo's of what has happened so far. The boss is helping with the backscene etc and painting of the boards.

 

Track will be Code Peco 75, DCC (love the ability to use different loco's without having to isolate them), and the points on this board will be live frog, manually operated.

I plan to have a 3way point just after the bridge which should give me more room. Trains will not run past either end, so the bridge is just a scenic finish. One track is supposed to be from elsewhere, the other side will be as if the track has been lifted, so is now a siding, (if you follow me)

 

The left hand end will have (hopefully) 2 Scalescenes Low Relief warehouses (one is partly built) reduced in height and possibly a middle platform for goods, running from left to right.

 

Will do my best to keep you up to date as we proceed.

Edited May 7, 2017 by MANTY1

[Nick G]

Nice project you have there!

[MANTY1]

The basics will be carried out in the shed before coming upstairs to the office windowsill.

Cork Tiles have been laid and painted, now have to decide the track layout before pinning down.

The back wall can be fixed with the bridge, the one Low Relief warehouse will have to wait for the other one to be built

 

Not sure what we can do at the warehouse end to finish the scene.   Any Ideas??

The wiring and checking it works will then be next, then it can come upstairs.

Beauty of it is that she can easily be moved around whilst various tasks are carried out.

[FiveandNine]

Been toying with a similar idea. Am going for backscenes:

Docks - shipping etc. Bristol has a good one. Also try googling Gloucester.

Main line terminus (ie. just the roofs in the near distance - your area is the grotty goods area hidden out of sight of the public face of the railway).

City scenes are more difficult as getting good colour pictures of something without high rises may be an issue. Durham or Wells may offer something with a cathedral and not much in the way of office buildings.

 

Sure there's better ideas out there, but that's where I'm aiming.

 

Al

Edited May 9, 2017 by FiveandNine

[davknigh]

You might want to fit a runaround somewhere otherwise your operations will be a bit limited.

 

Cheers,

 

David

[classy52]

Good Afternoon

 

Have been playing around with wagon building, making card buildings  and collecting various loco's and other items over the years, but never got round to actually having a layout.

Built a base-board to fit on my home office window ledge. Dimensions 5'9" x 9.5".  Want to just run loco's up & down but also practice creating a diorama.

So many Ideas came and went, stopped and started and I also wanted to do a little shunting. So an Inglenook with extras seemd a good idea.

Faffed about for many years, other interests kept me away, but finally decided to get on with it.

This will be a first build, but I do have a workshop (which is used for Picture Framing) where I hope to build a larger end to end layout in the future.

 

Have been inspired by some of the models on this site, large & small and thought perhaps it's time to show what I am attempting, and hopefully get some advice along the way.

Am certain it won't be a quick build, especially as Summer is here (it is isn't it??)

 

So here are a few photo's of what has happened so far. The boss is helping with the backscene etc and painting of the boards.

 

Track will be Code Peco 75, DCC (love the ability to use different loco's without having to isolate them), and the points on this board will be live frog, manually operated.

I plan to have a 3way point just after the bridge which should give me more room. Trains will not run past either end, so the bridge is just a scenic finish. One track is supposed to be from elsewhere, the other side will be as if the track has been lifted, so is now a siding, (if you follow me)

 

The left hand end will have (hopefully) 2 Scalescenes Low Relief warehouses (one is partly built) reduced in height and possibly a middle platform for goods, running from left to right.

 

Will do my best to keep you up to date as we proceed.

 

I was also looking at doing the same thing as you, have plenty of loco's & rolling stock which I've collected over the last 4 years but they are just on display as I haven't built a proper layout but can't atm due to space limitations and looking to move house over the summer.

Anyway, I also have a home office and was thinking about building a very small 4.5' x 2'  DCC diorama such as a TMD so I can practice by starting off small and get used to installing track, points and scenes before I venture into a proper sized one, that way mistakes won't be so costly and easier to fix but the learning factor will be a big plus.

My intention is to put the layout in front of my window in the office as a display feature with live running loco's chugging up & down the TMD with a few points to add variety of movement, haven't started as it is only in my head but seeing this thread might just inspire me to get started and also follow your progress.

Edited May 9, 2017 by classy52

[MANTY1]

Been toying with a similar idea. Am going for backscenes:

Docks - shipping etc. Bristol has a good one. Also try googling Gloucester.

Main line terminus (ie. just the roofs in the near distance - your area is the grotty goods area hidden out of sight of the public face of the railway).

City scenes are more difficult as getting good colour pictures of something without high rises may be an issue. Durham or Wells may offer something with a cathedral and not much in the way of office buildings.

 

Sure there's better ideas out there, but that's where I'm aiming.

 

Al

You might want to fit a runaround somewhere otherwise your operations will be a bit limited.

 

Cheers,

 

David

Yes I did wonder about that, will have a rejuggle and see what looks best !!!

Edited May 9, 2017 by MANTY1

[MANTY1]

Well, had a little play around and adjusted the track position.

Gone for a three short radius points (electrofrog) which gives me a bit more room, the others are Medium radius.

Have about 20" from the bridge to the 3 way point which will give me an engine 3 wagons and a Guards van.

Have now got a run around (thanks David). The idea being that trains run in to the track at the front of the board, the Guards van is shunted into the siding (towards the bridge) the train then pulls forward and the engine can run-around and place the wagons at the warehouse or other siding. Well thats the (current) general idea.

The sidings near the wall will be for Engines and some wagons.

Know its not protypical but it will give me somewher to display and run some of my models.

One of the pics shows the revised trackplan (use that term loosely) and the other is of the bridge end.

[MANTY1]

Can anyone assist me.  I want to use a 3 way Peco point Electrofrog.

As this is only a diorama the points will only be manually switched (by my finger)

I've seen a few comments on here about wiring these 3 way points but not for manual use (unless I missed it)

It seems as though I need some electric switches to make it work, but I dont want to use a point motor.

Not worth it on a virtually static display/ test track.

Thanks

[andyram]

This looks a promising project. These small layouts can be very effective.

[MANTY1]

This looks a promising project. These small layouts can be very effective.

Yes Andy am hoping it will inspire me for a larger layout later on.

At present have a query over the 3 way point (see above) and may decide to remove it and change the track formation.

Building some card buildings at present and mulling over backscene etc.

Still I suppose that's part of the fun

Have to enjoy the too while it lasts

[andyram]

Yes, I am unsure about three way points. I was thinking of using one on my Skaleby Quay layout, but did not feel confident enough.

[colin penfold]

You have to switch the frog polarities whether you use a point motor or not. The easy way is with the Peco accessory switch which will fit directly to the underside of the point. Wiring instructions are in the box with the point.

[Booking Hall]

Can anyone assist me.  I want to use a 3 way Peco point Electrofrog.

As this is only a diorama the points will only be manually switched (by my finger)

I've seen a few comments on here about wiring these 3 way points but not for manual use (unless I missed it)

It seems as though I need some electric switches to make it work, but I dont want to use a point motor.

Not worth it on a virtually static display/ test track.

Thanks

I used some double pole slide switches to both operate and switch the frog polarity of the live frog 3-way point I fitted to my ironing board layout 'Weydon-Priors' (single-pole ones would do). You connect the two factory fitted wires to the slide switches as I've shown in the photo below, and connect + and - to the appropriate terminals, bridging between the two switches as shown. You just need to ensure that you connect the right 'point' feed to the switch that operates the point blades for that particular route. This is easily determined with a continuity meter, or even by use of a loco on each road in turn, to see if it moves. If not, swop the wires to the point over.

[MANTY1]

I used some double pole slide switches to both operate and switch the frog polarity of the live frog 3-way point I fitted to my ironing board layout 'Weydon-Priors' (single-pole ones would do). You connect the two factory fitted wires to the slide switches as I've shown in the photo below, and connect + and - to the appropriate terminals, bridging between the two switches as shown. You just need to ensure that you connect the right 'point' feed to the switch that operates the point blades for that particular route. This is easily determined with a continuity meter, or even by use of a loco on each road in turn, to see if it moves. If not, swop the wires to the point over.

Thanks for that Booking Hall.

Excuse me being silly, but if I'm using "the hand of God" to switch the point as its on a windowsill and only a test track, can this still work without a point motor.?

[MANTY1]

You have to switch the frog polarities whether you use a point motor or not. The easy way is with the Peco accessory switch which will fit directly to the underside of the point. Wiring instructions are in the box with the point.

Maybe thats what I should try first Colin.

Regards

[MANTY1]

Thanks for that Booking Hall.

Excuse me being silly, but if I'm using "the hand of God" to switch the point as its on a windowsill and only a test track, can this still work without a point motor.?

Just seen Colins post which talks about the accessory switch.

I think that might be my best answer as I'm manually moving the point.

[MANTY1]

Well that wasn't very successful !!!  Laid the track, wired up, but no way can I get the 3 way electrofrog point (early model with 3 wires to frogs) to work.

Tried every which way to wire up the PL10's but for some reason couldn't make it happen.  I'llkeep the point for my next effort

The other areas plus points worked fine. Remember they are being operated by the "hand of"

So decided, as it is really a test track and diorama then I will go back to short radius points.

Removing the point has meant the track doesn't lay right so reckon it will be best to start again.

Never mind, all part of the learning curve.

[sigtech]

Hello MANTY1

Have you seen SR CHRIS' blog entries on here? - His station is called Cill (as in window...!) and it may be worth looking at it to help get some more ideas for your version.

Regards,

 

SIGTECH

(Steve).

[MANTY1]

Hello MANTY1

Have you seen SR CHRIS' blog entries on here? - His station is called Cill (as in window...!) and it may be worth looking at it to help get some more ideas for your version.

Regards,

 

SIGTECH

(Steve).

Hi Steve.

No I haven't seen it, will have a look now.

Thanks.

[MANTY1]

Moving slowly on.

The track is laid and wired, so the baseboard is now on the window-ledge.  Did away with the 3way point couldn't make it work so decided not worth it for this test track/ diorama.

Have had a little play with my new "Terrain Cover" static grass applicator in the front left hand corner. Not bad for a first attempt.

Am thinking will put "coal staithes" front right near the bridge.

The Scalescenes warehouse (reduced height) will probably look better with another one alongside it.

Unsure what to do at the left hand end and also what to do as a backscene, still its early days and as its my first attempt willing to try different ideas.

If you can help would be appreciated.

Like the Art Printers warehouse at the left hand end, but not sure if its overkill or looks right in this case. Need to be sure before ordering the proper printed set.!!!

 

Sorry about the depth of field on the photo's, will try harder next time (lol)

Edited June 25, 2017 by MANTY1

[MANTY1]

Incidentally, although not in the plans at present, there is no reason why I couldn't put a small fiddle yard past the overbridge, but would not be able to use it on the window sill.

Thats something for the future maybe.

[MANTY1]

So we slowly move along (well it is summer!!!)

The track is down and operating. Just need to make sure all is OK with conections then to fix it down.

All short radius points for this diorama, but all works fine.

The little Hattons 14xx is a cracker, so much so I treated myself to a 58xx as well.

Have a new backscene on order from Artprinters (what a helpful chap John is) which we feel will suit this setup better.

Then I can start to fix the Railway Building (also Artprinters) etc. Looks like I will have to build another Scalescenes Low Relief Warehouse, but this time in Dark Red Brick.

I appreciate this track layout does not look prototypical, but after all it is really a testtrack & (steep) learning curve.

Am staying with standard couplings for now and have fixed small pieces of staple on top of the each arm. A telescopic pointer with a magnet on it makes an easy to use uncoupler.

Hand of God yes but it will suit me for now.  You can just see the uncoupler clipped onto a magnet on the front.

A few pieces in place but this is not fixed, just to get ideas.

So there we are for now, sorry the pics are not brill (must improve the focus) but bit difficult with the board being on the windowsill (light issues)

Your thoughts would be appreciated.

[MANTY1]

The backscene has arrived from Art Printers. Excellent help and service from John.

So next thing was to fit it.

Had to lift it up a bit to get the houses at the right height, but fence/walling will cover the bottom. See photo.

Very pleased with the look and the Railway Building on the left (also an Art printers one)

The Scalescenes warehouse will be rebuilt in a darker redbrick.

Waiting for a ballast sample to arrive.

The small shed to the left of the warehouse is a Metcalfe one cut in half.

 

[MANTY1]

The Victorian Walling is an excellent kit from Scale Model Scenery (download version)

Printed onto Matt self adhesive paper and well pleased with the look

Edited August 2, 2017 by MANTY1