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Shuker field micro layout 4ft x 18"


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Hi folks.

Slow burner this one due to third child being imminent, but it's my first ever layout. Any tips welcome - especially where wiring and points are concerned!

 

I am still in the planning stages. Will post some of my ideas and work in due course.

 

In the meantime, here is a mini diorama I made and photographed as a sneaky peek at the flavour I'm going for.

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If your other threads are anything to go by this will be good, looking forward to seeing it progress. Best tip I can give is share your stuff with us, you'll get plenty of help and support and above all enjoy :no: 

Steve.

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Thanks folks.

I'm looking to replicate this signal box but I can't seem to find an image of the back of it anywwhere.

Would anyone have a rough idea of what it might look like? It needn't be exact, just an idea, is not well versed in the subject of signal boxes!post-21051-0-73458300-1494756597_thumb.png

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Thanks folks.

I'm looking to replicate this signal box but I can't seem to find an image of the back of it anywwhere.

Would anyone have a rough idea of what it might look like? It needn't be exact, just an idea, is not well versed in the subject of signal boxes!attachicon.gifIMG_2470.PNG

 

Hi

 

The back of a signal box, unless there were any lines it controlled, would be plain brick/timber, without any windows.

 

This photo http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-7I-WOSO2Q_4/VdzQ3Rw74AI/AAAAAAAAJuY/vYLAWSAvk3w/s1600/signal.box.papercraft.via.papermau.002.jpg is of a model, but illustrates the principle.

 

For Carr House box I would replicate the brick panels, but without locking room windows, and the upper part would be vertical broading.

 

HTH

 

Moxy

Edited by Moxy
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Unless you need the pips on the tiebar and the holes for the pointmotor, Peco points are visually much improved by some careful sculpting around the heel end.

The weathering looks excellent.

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Thanks stubby. Have no ideas what looks right and doesn't but some research has helped and I will remove the excess around the big sleepers, fill in the holes an add sleepers into the gaps.

 

How should the tiebar look? Just sticking out flat?

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On stubbys advice I have fettled a bit and removed excess plastic and filled holes in.

 

Is it any better now? Ongoing advice is much appreciated from all. I realise it's never going to be hand soldered P4 - I just don't have the time!

 

Compared to box fresh turnout:

 

post-21051-0-32058900-1495060091_thumb.jpg

 

Pete

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Looks good, how did you acheive that?

Steve.

Thanks Steve, Here is my method.

 

 

 

Humbrol matt 73 and revell Matt 75 equal parts. Mix in some humbrol brown powder and paint the rail sides and chairs. Add some humbrol Matt 82 orange in tiny amounts for rust to the sides of the chairs where they connect to the rail. Then wipe off the top of rail and let dry. Weather with brown powder all over.

post-21051-0-58285800-1495060432_thumb.jpg

 

Then paint all sleepers in tamya xf68. Then highlight with xf52 then mix in some xf2 white and dry brush. Using a pin or scribe tool, scratch some cracks and splits into the sleepers randomly.

 

Weather with brown and black powder from humbrol.

 

That's it!post-21051-0-69110200-1495060613_thumb.jpg

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I think the point looks much, much better.

 

Prior to fettling, when taking a photo along the line, those tiebar pips just stand out - your points no instantly longer look like peco.

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The point weathering is great, thanks for the 'how to do it' I think it makes a difference cutting the pips off especially when on the layout and maybe with a dummy point lever next to it. I'm hoping to do that on my layout.

Steve.

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The signal box I want to Make will be the focal point of the layout.

 

I have been doing some calculations based on what few photos of this box exist.

I want to change the roof to a normal pitched roof as I prefer that, the box will be fictitious.

 

Does anyone think it's too wide or are the dimensions okay?post-21051-0-29356600-1495532085_thumb.jpg

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Thanks for that. I have been working on it and I have improved it and now I'm happy.

 

Plasticard and balsa to start, with some scribing to make the plasticard look like weathered timber with nail holes. I'm using the drawing as a template.

post-21051-0-17028600-1495559731_thumb.jpgpost-21051-0-52475200-1495559766_thumb.jpgpost-21051-0-18538500-1495559782_thumb.jpg

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