MattBlack33 Posted May 12, 2017 Share Posted May 12, 2017 (edited) Hello everyone. I have recently returned to railway modelling after a long period of making those flying things and whatnot. I have picked up a few techniques from what I like to call my diorama buidling phase that I hope people on here will find useful. The first thing I would like to share is my strategy for creating realistic concrete slabs. I came across a lot of these, particularly when I was modelling runways and/or interiors for hangers, however this technique could be used to create different sizes of concrete slab. Making the Base Firstly, find the material that you're going to be using to represent the flags/slabs etc. I find that using fine-grit sand paper gives a subtle roughness to the surface which looks good in HO/OO/1:72 scale. I have also tried it with plasticard, however it lacks the lumps and bumps of the sandpaper version. Cut into slab-shapes and glue to the surface you are flagging. The sandpaper can curl up at the edges when the paint goes on so make sure it has firmly adhered to the surface before painting. Painting Once the glue is dried we can start painting. This happens in 4 stages: Priming - giving the next layers something to grip to. Highlights. Lowlights/shadows. Final coat. The next image shows the highlighting process. For this I used Humbrol Matt White (34) to pick out parts of the slabs that are likely to reflect the light of the sun: As you can see I haven't covered the whole area, just a few key areas. Next, I used an airbrush to pick out the darker areas. This particular set up was for the interior of a hangar so I have sprayed some areas inside the slabs where oil may have been spilled and cleaned up a number of times. This was done with Humbrol Matt Black(!!) (33). Finally, I added the final coat, or the shade of concrete you would like to finish off with. This is a particularly dark shade so I airbrushed Humbrol (27) over the entire surface. Ideally this should be built up over a number of coats so that you can have greater control over how much of the highlights/lowlights you want to allow to seep through. This is after maybe one or two thin layers. As you can see it still needs a few more to even it out a little and tone down the lowlit areas: These are more like it! I have found this a really useful technique which can be used in small areas, and large areas alike! I hope you found this useful and if you have any questions/comments then don't hesitate to get in touch/leave a comment! Edited May 12, 2017 by MattBlack33 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeatonLodge40 Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 Thanks for that. I am just about to construct a hard standing in concrete for a Calor Gas tank so I'll use your technique. Cheers Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MattBlack33 Posted May 16, 2017 Author Share Posted May 16, 2017 Thanks for that. I am just about to construct a hard standing in concrete for a Calor Gas tank so I'll use your technique. Cheers Simon That's great to hear, Simon. I'd be interested to see how you get on! It's fairly straightforward to do but if you would like help with anything then do let me know. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium HillsideDepot Posted May 16, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted May 16, 2017 Thanks for posting this David, I've bookmarked it for when I (finally!!) complete the first of a few aircraft kits I have in progress (Hercules C130K, A400M and Vulcan a mixed selection admittedly, but I like them). 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tractor_37260 Posted May 16, 2017 Share Posted May 16, 2017 (edited) One product that can be very effective at giving a concrete looking effect is Plastikote "Suede" spray cans. I've yet to use it, but many have had good results with it. HTH Ken Edited May 16, 2017 by tractor_37260 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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