spikey Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 At present I'm laying the track for my first foray into 009, and all is good. But it occurs to me that now is the time to decide what I do about couplings. My one and only loco is a Minitrains Gmeinder diesel, and I currently have 4 x Minitrains "mine wagons". The "line" is industrial, some bends are just under 9" radius, I won't be getting any bogie wagons, and if I do add a second loco in the future, it'll be another short-wheelbase 0-4-0. I'm not impressed with the Minitrains couplings, and a search on this subject on here has left me confused. I can make do with fixed rakes of wagons if I have to in order to retain what little hair I have left, but I'd very much like to be able to uncouple the loco remotely and have it couple up reliably. What's my best bet? (If it would make life any easier for me, I'm not committed to the Minitrains couplings or indeed to the wagons I currently have, as long as I could fit the recommended alternative to the Minitrains Gmeinder.) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SignalArts98 Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 (edited) For couplings I would recommend Greenwich couplings which are a fold up etch that have an arm at the bottom that is wrapped in a fine iron wire so that they can uncoupled by magnets in the track when the fitted vehicle goes over it. They are a little fiddly at first but it gets a little easier once you assembled a few pairs. As its the mine wagons you are taking about, for mine I have used identical couplings to the greenwhich made by a company called RT models which are smaller and were originally designed for slate wagons. Despite this, they can be used for the roco mine wagons if the single shank joining the couplings together is cut in half cut with both ends of the couplings fixed into where the original couplings are (seen in picture below). One thing to bear in mind no matter what coupling you use is that they ALL need to be at the same height otherwise they wont engage properly. A suitable coupling height can be found at RT models and, in my opinion, its a nice piece of cast resin that accurately does the job. As for fixed rakes, I would use fine blackened chain from Eileens emporium in the intimidate wagons and the use the rt models/ greenwich couplings at both ends of the rake. Hope this helps! Dan Edited May 31, 2017 by SignalArts98 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikey Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 .... Hope this helps! It does indeed, Dan. Thank you. Off now to check out Greenwich couplings and RT models ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikey Posted May 31, 2017 Author Share Posted May 31, 2017 Having now had look at the Greenwich couplings and watched that video, I'm not at all sure that my eyesight and dexterity is still up to that! Is there really nothing else that works? Even if I forget about the Minitrains wagons and replace them with something else? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SignalArts98 Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 There`s always the Bemo and Peco 009 couplings ( the latter found on their 009 rtr rolling stock). They are in many ways a bit bulkier than the greenwich types and slightly more expensive but are practically ready assembled. However, they are not as easy to uncouple as the Greenwich types unless you have a ramp to push the hoops up to uncouple but I have seen a modification where a track pin is glued onto theside of the coupling in an L shape which gives it the same functionality as a greenwhich coupler. The peco type also uses Nem 365 pockets and so could give you options to use a wide range of couplings relating to n gauge. There is also another etched type called Paul Windle couplings and they can be found on Parkside Dundas in the 009 section. I haven't tried them but from what I have heard from a few people is that they are easier to assemble than the Greenwich type. Dan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted May 31, 2017 Share Posted May 31, 2017 See my earlier post on here, re Peco now selling 'peg and Loop'** couplings as a spare part these will fit NEM packets or if this is not fitted Peco sell those also, 12 pairs of couplings for £3.75 see for example Hattons 00-9 section. These are OK for fixed rakes,, personally after many many years of Narrow gauge modelling I still use the couplings fitted to Roco/Liliput/Peco stock ** these are fitted to Peco's slate wagons** Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikey Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 (edited) Thank you gentlemen. That's really useful information. I'll get one of those Peco wagons and see if I'm happy with their coupling ETA - Sorry chaps but the Peco site doesn't tell me so I have to ask. With reference to this page https://www.hattons.co.uk/products/category-peco-009-scale is GR-102 + GR-103 what is called the "hook and peg" type, and is that what they use on all the Peco 009 stock? Edited June 1, 2017 by spikey Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 (edited) Thank you gentlemen. That's really useful information. I'll get one of those Peco wagons and see if I'm happy with their coupling ETA - Sorry chaps but the Peco site doesn't tell me so I have to ask. With reference to this page https://www.hattons.co.uk/products/category-peco-009-scale is GR-102 + GR-103 what is called the "hook and peg" type, and is that what they use on all the Peco 009 stock? I have personally not tested any as my current 00-9 layout is dormant at the moment awaiting hopefully the arrival of L&B Motive power from Heljan ( 4.5 years and counting!!) I would however think the Peco Peg & Hooks would work fine on the smaller stock ie 4 wheel ( caution with the Buffered Glyn Valley 4wl coaches) I think it would be necessary to test them with the bogie stock, sharper curves may cause a problem The hook & Peg is only fitted to Peco slate wagons, ( See pics on Hattons site 00-9 wagons, these clearly show the couplings) Edited June 1, 2017 by Stevelewis Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikey Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 Thanks Steve. I've finally managed to find pictures which show me what the Peco "Peg & Loop" couplings look like, but unless I'm missing something obvious, they need the Big Hand From The Sky to couple and uncouple. It seems to me that all I have to do is flog my Minitrains "mine wagons" and replace them with Peco 009 wagons, then in due course get those remotely uncoupling. I'm happy with that idea, so the final question from me is - will the ordinary (non-slate wagon) Peco 009 wagons couple to and uncouple from my Minitrains Gmeinder, or do I have to change the coupling on that to the Peco 009 standard one? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 Thanks Steve. I've finally managed to find pictures which show me what the Peco "Peg & Loop" couplings look like, but unless I'm missing something obvious, they need the Big Hand From The Sky to couple and uncouple. It seems to me that all I have to do is flog my Minitrains "mine wagons" and replace them with Peco 009 wagons, then in due course get those remotely uncoupling. I'm happy with that idea, so the final question from me is - will the ordinary (non-slate wagon) Peco 009 wagons couple to and uncouple from my Minitrains Gmeinder, or do I have to change the coupling on that to the Peco 009 standard one? The slate wagon are sold in sets of three each set has a pair of hook & loops for the end wagons, they are very light and benefit for additional weight to be 'hidden' in the hollow slate loads ( which are removeable) the pic on hattons site shows the 3 wagon set with the other couplings at the ends Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikey Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 (edited) Sorry Steve, but I simply don't see how that rake of three Peco slate wagons could couple to and uncouple from my Minitrains Gmeinder. But it doesn't matter, because I rather fancy standardising on the couplings which Peco use on the rest of their 009 rolling stock. So the only question now is the one I asked in my last post - does the Peco "standard" 009 coupling work with my loco, or do I have to convert that? This is the one I'm on about ... https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=minitrains+gmeinder+diesel&client=firefox-b&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjk7PK0v5zUAhUClxQKHWbTBZoQ_AUICigB&biw=911&bih=423#imgrc=zGqi8-MKu983TM: Edited June 1, 2017 by spikey Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
PatC Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 I'd recommend that you get a pack of the Greenwich type couplings and give them a go before you give up on the idea completely. Over fourteen years of 009 modelling I've tried the standard Bemo coupling and the Paul Windle fold up type. Bemos are now very expensive IMHO, working out at over a quid a coupling. The Greenwich type still sell for about £4 or £5.00 for a pack of ten. I started experimenting with them about five years ago and have now standardised on them, gradually retro fitting all of my older stock. Once you've folded up a few they get easier and quicker to make, don't require any solder (which the Windle type do), they are unobtrusive and auto uncoupling is easy to achieve and makes operation so much more enjoyable. Definitely worth a go. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikey Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 Thanks Patrick, I hear what you say - but I'd still appreciate it if somebody can tell me whether or not a "standard" Peco 009 coupling will perform properly with my Gmeinder. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevelewis Posted June 1, 2017 Share Posted June 1, 2017 Thanks Patrick, I hear what you say - but I'd still appreciate it if somebody can tell me whether or not a "standard" Peco 009 coupling will perform properly with my Gmeinder. I have had a couple or so Minitrains locos, their couplings did work fine with Peco L&B rolling stock and also Roco H0e rolling stock. So I would have no worries about compatability Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikey Posted June 1, 2017 Author Share Posted June 1, 2017 Many thanks Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hobby Posted June 2, 2017 Share Posted June 2, 2017 As long as the heights are the same then Peco/Roco/Bemo and Greenwich are all compatible. I'd echo Pat and say that you should at least try Greenwich, they are so much nicer, if you can't get them to work you'll sell them on easy enough! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted June 3, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted June 3, 2017 When in doubt, try it out, or get someone else to. First photo shows the Minitrains loco coupled to two vehicles. On the left with a Peco coupling, on the right with a Greenwich coupling. This photo shows that Peco and Greenwich couplings will happily couple. You shouldn't have any problems if you later decide to upgrade to hands free operation with Greenwich couplings. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
spikey Posted June 3, 2017 Author Share Posted June 3, 2017 Neil, thank you very much indeed for that post. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Stubby47 Posted August 23, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted August 23, 2017 I've just been researching this exact issue - which couplings to use on 009 stock. Do the Greenwich couplings stay coupled when pulled across a permanent magnet in the track ? Stu Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium cnw6847 Posted August 23, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 23, 2017 I've just been researching this exact issue - which couplings to use on 009 stock. Do the Greenwich couplings stay coupled when pulled across a permanent magnet in the track ? Stu Stu, Yes, the Greenwich couplings stay coupled when pulling over the magnet. They need to be pushed together to give them some slack to uncouple. I have found them pretty reliable and would recommend them. Make sure they are the same height etc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2996 Victor Posted August 25, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted August 25, 2017 Apologies for hijacking this thread, at least in part! I'm just embarking on an 009 layout and, as it will be primarily an Inglenook puzzle, I'm thinking about couplings. I've always had an abhorrance for those enormous tension-lock monstrosities, so something as unobtrusive as possible has always been a key factor in all my plans and failed projects. However, in a layout where shunting is the key, I'm going to need an automatic rather than the good old three link (frustratingly ever-lengthening sight doesn't help, either!). I have to say that the Greenwich couplings seem like an excellent compromise, so I'm going to give them a shot, even though it'll be a while before I can report back! Thanks, everyone, for the suggestions! Cheers, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryteker Posted January 3, 2018 Share Posted January 3, 2018 Victor, I’m not sure if this thread is still ‘live’, but found it during looking for 009 uncoupling etc. I built an ‘00’ version of inglenook sidings some time ago, and came across a few issues that needed to be addressed with regard to coupling/uncoupling that may help. (I’m looking to do a smaller 4’ x 2’ layout in ‘009’) starting very soon, and, being interested in shunting, plan to incorporate both an Inglenook-Sidings and a ‘Timesaver’ shunting area into it, again with some sort of coupling/uncoupling etc. loco/wagon detection, automation and running under ‘DCC’ .... well that’s the hope/plan The coupling was an issue as whenever a loco approached the wagons, (particularly a single wagon) it had a tendency to push it away, rather than coupling, I overcame this by use of ‘neo’ magnets, a small ‘disk’ one glued to the underside of every wagon, and a larger, more powerful one underneath the base board that could be adjusted to ensure correct positioning for both coupling and uncoupling. This ‘held’ the wagons in place whilst the loco coupled to it. The uncoupling was done by micro servo’s fitted under the baseboard operating to raise when required. There were other ‘facilities’ on the layout that I won’t go into here in case it is not a ‘live’ subject. I do have an extensive record of ‘the build’ (somewhere) which I can post if anyone is interested. This is a link to a YouTube video of it being ‘solved’ by a young visitor at an exhibition about 3 Year’s ago if anyone is interested. Cheers Roy 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium 2996 Victor Posted January 5, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 5, 2018 Victor, I’m not sure if this thread is still ‘live’, but found it during looking for 009 uncoupling etc. I built an ‘00’ version of inglenook sidings some time ago, and came across a few issues that needed to be addressed with regard to coupling/uncoupling that may help. (I’m looking to do a smaller 4’ x 2’ layout in ‘009’) starting very soon, and, being interested in shunting, plan to incorporate both an Inglenook-Sidings and a ‘Timesaver’ shunting area into it, again with some sort of coupling/uncoupling etc. loco/wagon detection, automation and running under ‘DCC’ .... well that’s the hope/plan The coupling was an issue as whenever a loco approached the wagons, (particularly a single wagon) it had a tendency to push it away, rather than coupling, I overcame this by use of ‘neo’ magnets, a small ‘disk’ one glued to the underside of every wagon, and a larger, more powerful one underneath the base board that could be adjusted to ensure correct positioning for both coupling and uncoupling. This ‘held’ the wagons in place whilst the loco coupled to it. The uncoupling was done by micro servo’s fitted under the baseboard operating to raise when required. There were other ‘facilities’ on the layout that I won’t go into here in case it is not a ‘live’ subject. I do have an extensive record of ‘the build’ (somewhere) which I can post if anyone is interested. This is a link to a YouTube video of it being ‘solved’ by a young visitor at an exhibition about 3 Year’s ago if anyone is interested. Cheers Roy Hi Roy, to be honest, I hadn't considered the potential issue of the loco simply pushing a wagon rather than coupling - its not something I recall seeing mentioned in the past. I'm planning on weighting my rolling stock, either by with loads or with under-floor ballast, which will hopefully help. I've got my baseboards in kit form, as yet unassembled, so your post is quite timely in that I can experiment with coupling before getting starting scenery etc. I'll report back when I know what's what! Best regards, Mark Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted January 6, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted January 6, 2018 If the wagons are reluctant to couple, or bounce off each other, here are some things to consider: Weight - the more the better, within reason. Metal wheels help here, as long as they don't have steel tyres. Brakes - if the wagon is free running it will tend to run away. Adding some sort of brake will stop this. Something like a bit of foam rubbing on the axle, or a a bit of wire. It needs to provide enough force to stop the wagon rolling away, but not stop the wheels from turning. Coupling loop height - if it's a bit low it won't go over the hook. Or the hook could be too high. These things often don't show up until an operating session, so it's worth testing all combinations of wagons. I find that bending the front of the loop at a slight angle helps, so that it is angled to pass over the hook. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rynd2it Posted February 6, 2018 Share Posted February 6, 2018 Hi, If I have read all of the above correctly, the Greenwich will couple to a Bemo-equipped wagon/loco but I suspect it won't magnetically uncouple. Is this true? Thanks David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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