Gladiator 7mm Stanier Duchess

[Petebe]

Does anyone know what that black box just in front of the cab right hand side is for?

 

 

You can just see it in this pic

 

Pete

 

 

[Michael Edge]

It's the battery box for aws.

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Hi Pete,

There is  a fold up etching in the  kit  for the  battery box, plus other  bits and pieces associated with the  AWS. If like  me  you are modelling DoS in early/mid 50s BR Green with the  early logo, then you  don't need them. Same  goes for  the  speedometer but  in any  case that is  not  catered for in the  kit, although easy enough to make.

 

Section 80 to 84 in the  instructions cover the  AWS fittings.

 

If you're ordering some parts from Ragstone, then I recommend you  also get some  safety valves.  The etch part in the kit  doesn't pass muster.

 

Cheers,

Peter

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By the  way Pete,

Your photo of the  firebox top show some  preservation mods in terms of the bolts at the  cladding  joints at the  top.

 

 

According to the clothing arrangement drawing for non streamlined engines in the  LMS profiles on the "Coronation Pacifics",

there  should  only  be 2 bolts in the  first section and  5 in the  second.  Looks like  they have  gone  belt  and braces in preservation and  added more.  In the  section between the  dome and  the next boiler band there  is 1, then two from the  boiler band  to the  top feed then 4 in the  last  section. Have  a  look through my thread as I have  copied the  drawing.

 

This  is City of Birmingham. Unfortunatley I did not  have my camera so couldn't zoom in close, but this  shows only 5 rivets not  9 between the  rear and next boiler band.

 

In both these pictures the  mud hole covers are missing but  they are  on your first picture in your last  post.

 

Cheers,

Peter

 

[Petebe]

Hi Peter

 

Thanks for that info.

 

I was going to get the safety valves from Laurie Griffin as you did.

 

As luck would have it, they will both be at Reading on the 2nd of Dec and so shall I be with a very long list!!!!!!!!!!

 

Pete

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I made a start on the boiler back plate tonight. First thing was to modify the fire hole doors which are incorrect. Here's how it comes.

 

The runners above the top rail needs removing and the top edge of the doors rounded. Looking at photos in books and of DoS and CoB, its clear the a number of fittings are not provided. To improve the Spartan appearance I added some bits from the spares box, but there's a lot of modeller's licence involved. This is how far I got.

 

And in the cab.

 

The two holes above the tray need filling. These were for locating the tray, but I lowered it to the correct position just above the rail. It should pass muster inside the enclosed cab when finished, but it's a bit of a compromise.

 

I also modified the piping on the frame in front of the left hand cylinder. This is for the brake pipe and I had routed is as per a de-streamlined engine with split footplate, after seeing CoB. Looking at reference photos and photos I took of DoS showed the piping to follow the curve of the front drop plate. I also made a represent the condensation trap.

 

Cheers,

Peter

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I have now completed the back plate. As mentioned yesterday, various bits and bobs from the spares box have been butchered to represent some of the missing bits (not provides in the kit). Today some scratch building was in order to replace the white metal regulator handle and the fire hole door operating lever.

 

I still need to fill those holes above the tray and I think the regulator stuffing gland is too low. It is in the hole provided in the backplate but was already fixed in place before I realised, and I didn't want to risk damaging it by trying to remove it. Here it is in the cab.

 

And with the roof on.

 

 

Speaking of the roof, here's how it attaches. I've solder some wide strips of brass either side near the edge and it just slides in from the back. I'll solder a strip of brass to the cab in front of the safety valves so that there's I bit more area to glue it after painting. The half etch turn ins on the top of the side plates and the slot in the roof sides will be masked for painting.

 

I just need to fit the reversing gear and seats to complete the cab interior. Here's the whistle temporarily fitted. I drilled the base of the whistle and soldered in a spigot which fits into a hole drilled in the firebox top. Again it will be glued from the inside after painting.

 

Cheers,

Peter

[Black Country Mon]

Well done and thanks Peter. Top quality engineering and also taking the time to include so many photos and so much detail of the build and guidance has been invaluable to me certainly and i'm sure plenty of others too. As Wallace would say Crackin Build Peter.

 

Dave

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Many thanks Dave. Glad you found it useful.

 

Today I added the final details to the cab and replaced the white metal brake handle on the back head which broke.

 

The cast seats are modelled in the up position, but with some filing of the bruackets I fitted them in the down position using epoxy. The reversing mech comes in 3 parts but is missing a cog wheel next to the handle, so I knocked one up from a spare thumb screw off a spring bow pen. It's not perfect but looks the part and fills the gap. I also thought the cab box on which the reverser sits was too tall, so I removed it and cut 2mm off the bottom to lower it.

 

Here's the reversing mech and cog.

 

And in the cab. The seats are tucked away behind the side sheets.

 

Here's the replacement brake handle. I found it in the spares box and with a bit of fettling it looks the part. Glad I broke the original before it was all painted.

 

And with the roof on.

 

That's it for now until I receive the motor and gearbox from ABC. Once that's in I'll fit the pick ups and get it running.

 

Cheers,

Peter

[Petebe]

Peter

 

Black County Mon has got it bang on. 

 

For someone like me whose knowledge is very limited your stream has been without doubt, very informative, Clever, craftsmanship and without it my DOS would have been an average build at best.

 

Outstanding that man. 

 

Thank you

 

Pete.

[JeffP]

I'll miss this build thread.

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Thanks again to all for the kind words and positive ratings. Thanks also to Richard Lambert (Dikitriki) for his inspirational Finney 7 build on Western Thunder.

 

I gave the model a strip down and clean with Viakal (apart from the loco chassis which still needs some work for the pick ups). Here's how it breaks down for painting.

 

And reassembled.

 

I had an e mail from ABC to say they expect to dispatch the motor and gearbox next week, but I'm travelling on business so won't get any bench time.

 

Like Jeff P I'm going to miss this build. I have really enjoyed building this kit and would highly recommend it, especially after David has sorted out the firebox. From my point of view the firebox was not an issue, just a bit of a challenge that needed to be dealt with. After all,

"Are we not men?"

 

In the main the castings are very good and certainly all are usable. I did replace 3 with Ragstone items and one or two parts needed to be made from scratch. I'm particularly proud of the valve gizmo under the ejector next to the oil box, so here's another gratuitous shot of that. Seven pieces not including the pipes.

Anyway, I still have to paint and line it, so it could still all end in tears.

 

Cheers,

Peter

[david.hill64]

Simply stunning.

 

***** Thread hijack warning! *****

 

The 3D printed replacement firebox has now arrived at Castle Gladiator ready for my attention the week after next when I return for the pre-show kit packing frenzy. I will need to drill out and fit washout plugs and clothing fasteners to the box before sending it off for cloning. Realistically it will be January when Petebe gets his replacement.

I'll miss this build thread.

I'm still looking forward to your Alcazar build thread................

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Hi David,

Thanks for the compliment.

 

No worries about the hijack.

 

Not sure if I can get to Reading but if I can I'll bring the Duchess and you can see it in the flesh.

 

Cheers,

Peter

[Pete Harvey]

What Livery will she be in when finished Peter?

Edited November 18, 2017 by Pete Harvey

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What Livery will she be in when finished Peter?

Hi Pete,

BR lined green with the early logo.

Cheers,

Peter

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Nothing much to do until I receive the motor/gearbox, but have given the firebox a whisk of primer just to highlight any blemishes that need filling or rubbing down. There's one or two but nothing major. In the meantime it tidies things up after I brush painted the white plastic parts with grey enamel. I didn't need to do that but it was annoying me. Shame it's not brass with a white metal front as on the Seven Duke. The models do look nice in brass when clean before painting, but they soon tarnish as it's doing already.

 

By the way l came accross a thread on Western Thunder in Area 51 called "A West Midlands Works". It's by a guy who goes under the name of Scanlon. Go take a look. He's done some cracking builds!

Cheers,

Peter

[david.hill64]

By the way l came accross a thread on Western Thunder in Area 51 called "A West Midlands Works". It's by a guy who goes under the name of Scanlon. Go take a look. He's done some cracking builds!

Cheers,

Peter

Agreed. Roger Scanlon, like you, is an excellent modeller.

[Rob Pulham]

I have now completed the back plate. As mentioned yesterday, various bits and bobs from the spares box have been butchered to represent some of the missing bits (not provides in the kit). Today some scratch building was in order to replace the white metal regulator handle and the fire hole door operating lever.

 

 

Hi Peter,

 

I meant to ask when I read this a few days ago but forgot. Would you mind sharing how you made the regulator hand and the firebox door operating levers in a bit more details please? I am particularly interested in how you joined the round rod to the flat strip for the regulator handle - most impressive!

[TerrySVR]

I do envy your abilities to build such a fabulous model, breath taking.

 

Terry

[phixer64]

 

 

Nothing much to do until I receive the motor/gearbox, but have given the firebox a whisk of primer just to highlight any blemishes that need filling or rubbing down. There's one or two but nothing major. In the meantime it tidies things up after I brush painted the white plastic parts with grey enamel. I didn't need to do that but it was annoying me. Shame it's not brass with a white metal front as on the Seven Duke. The models do look nice in brass when clean before painting, but they soon tarnish as it's doing already.
20171120_184946.jpg

By the way l came accross a thread on Western Thunder in Area 51 called "A West Midlands Works". It's by a guy who goes under the name of Scanlon. Go take a look. He's done some cracking builds!
Cheers,
Peter

 Where is the wow button?

 

Regards Jeff

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Many thanks Terry.

 

Jeff,

If the wow button is for my work then thanks to you also. If it's for Roger Scanlon's work on Western Thunder, then I agree.

 

Rob,

For the regulator, I filed a flat on some 0.7 or 0.8 mm rod (can't remember which), about half the diameter. I did the same on the flat lever then soldered both together, then filed the remaining half round on the rod flat. This side goes to the back. The handle is then trimmed and clean up.

 

For the fire door levers, with dividers I took the dimentions between the pivot points from a drawing, marked these onto suitable lengths of waste etch and added a bit extra to allow for drilling, before cutting to length. The pivot points on the casting were marked with the dividers and holes drilled for 0 7mm rod. Lengths of rod were then added to the back plate and soldered from the rear with 145 solder. The lever with the handle was bent to shape and then the three of them placed over the pivot rods, soldered, the rods trimmed to length and filed to clean up.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Cheers,

Peter

[JeffP]

What, the firehole doors don't work? LOL

 

On a serious note, however, I'm always puzzled how something so important to the look of a backhead is often modelled so two-dimenionally. Even the kit designers just seem to put it on as an afterthought.

[Rob Pulham]

Many thanks Terry.

 

Jeff,

If the wow button is for my work then thanks to you also. If it's for Roger Scanlon's work on Western Thunder, then I agree.

 

Rob,

For the regulator, I filed a flat on some 0.7 or 0.8 mm rod (can't remember which), about half the diameter. I did the same on the flat lever then soldered both together, then filed the remaining half round on the rod flat. This side goes to the back. The handle is then trimmed and clean up.

 

For the fire door levers, with dividers I took the dimentions between the pivot points from a drawing, marked these onto suitable lengths of waste etch and added a bit extra to allow for drilling, before cutting to length. The pivot points on the casting were marked with the dividers and holes drilled for 0 7mm rod. Lengths of rod were then added to the back plate and soldered from the rear with 145 solder. The lever with the handle was bent to shape and then the three of them placed over the pivot rods, soldered, the rods trimmed to length and filed to clean up.

 

Hope that helps.

 

Cheers,

Peter

 

Brilliant thanks Peter,

 

A technique that I will shamelessly plagiarise at some point in the future

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You're welcome Rob.

 

Be rude not to.

 

Cheers,

Peter