brossard Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 I've just started building this kit and quite enjoying it so far. This is what falls out of the box: P1010001 by John Kendall, on Flickr Resin body parts, lots of whitemetal castings, lost wax brass castings and an etched brass sheet. I've cleaned up the whitemetal castings and done battle with the brass castings - my fingers still hurt. P1010001-002 by John Kendall, on Flickr I don't recognize the castings on the bottom row. My suspicion they are for later configurations. Can anyone enlighten? I had reviewed TimC's thread on this subject: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/26839-timcs-7mm-br-blue-workbench-jltrt-br-cct/page-7 I picked up some good pointers. I asked a question there about vacuum and steam pipe runs and got an answer today. I do appreciate how members of this community are so generous with their knowledge. From the drawing that I received, I made a 1:1 sketch for my model and spent the day constructing these: I installed the pipe runs today: P1010002-001 by John Kendall, on Flickr P1010001-003 by John Kendall, on Flickr You can also see my dynamo has had a power cable attached to the junction box along with grab handles. There's a safety chain as well but that's hard to see. Now I only hope that the addition of all this hasn't mucked up the installation of other parts. More to come. John 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted July 5, 2017 Share Posted July 5, 2017 John From left to right the bottom row appear to be:- A pair of steam heat buffer beam valves A pair of water drain traps for the brakes I think. They hang down near the middle of the coach. Very visible in a silhouette side view! A pair of the armoured flexi hoses to connect the brake cylinders to the plumbing. Hth Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 5, 2017 Author Share Posted July 5, 2017 Thanks Simon, will have a closer look and figure out where they all go. In the middle there are what I thought were (from L to R) steam pipes, vacuum pipes (that need hose springs) and alternate vacuum pipes? John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold markjj Posted July 6, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 6, 2017 Watch the ends when you make it the strapping at the bottom of the end doors can be extremely fragile and crumbles away very easily. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted July 6, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 6, 2017 A few pics of the nether regions of the CCT if they help. Mike. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 6, 2017 Author Share Posted July 6, 2017 Thanks for the heads up Mark. Mike, those pictures are marvelous, thanks a bunch. I bought the 4mm Masterclass kit second hand (a shame it will probably never get built, not by me anyway) and the instructions provide URLs to Chris Higgs Flickr pictures of the kit and prototype. These new pictures will supplement that info greatly. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 7, 2017 Author Share Posted July 7, 2017 Here's where I got today: P1010001-004 by John Kendall, on Flickr Looking very busy and we're nowhere near done.Brake yokes, safety loops and brakes installed. This took a fair while because I needed to stop and let the glue dry thoroughly after each step.Main V hangers on. I drilled these at the base and soldered in some wire. I then had to carefully line everything up using a template to drill holes in the chassis. Happily everything worked. I have a distrust of relying solely on CA for small items like these. I like to pin where I can.I made brake actuator levers but these aren't on yet.Cast hangers are installed at each end. My piping did mess up one of these so I cut it up and glued the separate pieces in.My plan is to hold off on the final securing of the wheels until after I've painted the underframe.I will need to make brake rod levers myself since the kit doesn't include these. As far as underframe detail is concerned, the kit is pretty basic.John 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted July 7, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 7, 2017 From what I can see of your picture, the gussets above the brake lever need to be modified if you're going that far? Mike. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 7, 2017 Author Share Posted July 7, 2017 Ah yes I see Mike, thanks will give that a go. I don't suppose you know anything about these: P1010001-002b by John Kendall, on Flickr Simon thought they were water traps for brakes but I can't find a clear view of how these are fixed or piped up. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted July 7, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 7, 2017 Are they these? Mike. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob Reid Posted July 7, 2017 Share Posted July 7, 2017 (edited) No Mike, it's the Direct Admission Valve (John, see the brake / steam pipe diagram) JLTRT supply two with the kit as is the norm for the feed to each brake cylinder on a Mk1 however although the CCT still has two brake cylinders only one (DA Valve) is required - they were only fed from the one valve with a 'T' piece feeding both cylinders via the flexible hoses in your photo's Mike. John, I'd replace the valve on your kit that you've fabricated with one of the JLTRT ones, having cut off the brass pipe from it first perhaps. Edited to fix problem with the image and dodgy grammar... Edited July 7, 2017 by Bob-65b Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 7, 2017 Author Share Posted July 7, 2017 The light goes on. Thanks Mike and Bob for that. Another mystery solved and I can get on and do that now. I'm finding Chris Higgs 4mm kit to be quite useful as a reference. I've made some additional "large" and "small" cranks from GEM angle cranks today. There's a gubbins in the middle of the frames that can be seen on the drawing just to the left of the cylinders. It's also pictured in the last photo of Mike's post #5 I think. I've made one, again from a GEM crank and now I'm having a think about how it all gets linked up. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted July 7, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 7, 2017 Aha Bob, with you now. Apologies for not the best shots in the world, didn't seem to concentrate on the DAV. Mike. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 7, 2017 Author Share Posted July 7, 2017 Thanks for all the pics Mike. I see that there's a bracket behind the flange, so I'll make that up. The drawing that Bob supplied did the trick. I just had to realize that the POV is looking down through the floor. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
auld_boot Posted July 7, 2017 Share Posted July 7, 2017 From what I can see of your picture, the gussets above the brake lever need to be modified if you're going that far? 1-IMG_5439.JPG Mike. I think that could be the gussets under the doors, to allow for footsteps if/when they were fitted. As on this example, some inspiration for weathering perhaps?! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 7, 2017 Author Share Posted July 7, 2017 (edited) That makes some sense AB, I will take that on board. As for weathering, well, mine is going to be maroon. John Edited July 7, 2017 by brossard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hmrspaul Posted July 7, 2017 Share Posted July 7, 2017 Steps present http://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/brcct/e2ab389a7 http://PaulBartlett.zenfolio.com/brcct/e31635b22 Paul Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted July 7, 2017 Share Posted July 7, 2017 Thanks for the clarification. I must have been suffering from brain-fade. My excuse is that the last time I was under a coach was in February 1986, in "beastly Eastleigh". Glad it's sorted. Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 7, 2017 Author Share Posted July 7, 2017 Simon are you referring to post # 2? Yes, I think I have it sorted now. Only thing I discovered I put the V hangers too far away from the cylinders so that's got to be redone - sheesh! John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted July 8, 2017 Share Posted July 8, 2017 Keep the faith, it'll be worth it in the end! Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 8, 2017 Author Share Posted July 8, 2017 Thanks Simon, oh yes, it will definitely be worth it. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 So I think I cracked it. I can't imagine how anyone coming into this cold, relying solely on the instructions, could hope to finish the model properly. I do owe you guys my gratitude for all the help: P1010002-002 by John Kendall, on Flickr P1010001-005 by John Kendall, on Flickr I was able to figure out the brake rigging from Chris Higgs' sketch and photos that are part of his kit. The key piece, not even mentioned in the kit and which I had to make, is a reversing lever on the centerline. For those interested here's how it works:The main actuating rod is mounted on two sets of V hangers. Beside the levers coming off the cylinders, there are three mounted on the rod. The middle one is critical. It pulls the reversing lever at the mid point, exerting a pull on each rod that actuates the main brake yokes (here I just soldered the rods to the yokes).There are two other levers linked to the handbrake actuators. These can be seen with rods sticking out waiting for me to attach the brake lever. I did plumb the vacuum cylinders and DA Valve as shown in post #11. I need to fab. a dynamo belt and fix it.Other than that, we're about done. Have I forgotten anything noteworthy?John 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chrisf Posted July 9, 2017 Share Posted July 9, 2017 John, this is terrific work! It reminds me all too brutally that I have a 4mm Lima CCT in rehab awaiting a new underframe because the one it was made with shattered into three pieces. If it is going to get a new one it might as well be a proper job. Thank you [i think!] for setting the benchmark. Chris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Enterprisingwestern Posted July 9, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted July 9, 2017 (edited) For some reason I'm getting an upload failed message, so no pics at the mo, but, the dynamo fixing is wrong, it fits into an adjustable cradle/channel off the bottom edge of the solebar. Mike. Sorry! Mike. Edited July 9, 2017 by Enterprisingwestern Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted July 9, 2017 Author Share Posted July 9, 2017 Thanks Chris, I did the Lima LMS GUV some while ago. I do like to add the fiddly details. They can't be seen clearly but I think add "something" to the feel of the model. LOL Mike, now you tell me! Waiting for the pics. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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