Jump to content


Google Ads are only seen by non-members of RMweb - Create an RMweb account and you'll only receive modelling ads.

Photo

When TT3 was the next Big Thing





  • Please log in to reply
435 replies to this topic

#426 Golden Fleece 30

Golden Fleece 30

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 916 posts

Posted 14 December 2017 - 16:36

Can anyone tell me how the centre crankpin was fastened in the Britannia wheels? I cannot see that it was screwed to always get the narrowed top in the correct orientation. If so, then I would have thought it could unscrew as I doubt Tri-ang would glue it in all that time ago.

Garry

Google Ads are only seen by non-members of RMweb - Create an RMweb account and you'll only receive modelling ads.

#427 Il Grifone

Il Grifone

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 5,969 posts
  • LocationEssex next to the LT&SR and Sardinia Costa dei Grifoni

Posted 15 December 2017 - 11:05

Hi Garry,

 

Are these any help?  http://www.tri-angtt...vice Sheets.htm

 

I would assume they are force fitted from the back of the wheel, like the 00 crank pins. Brute force will shift them* and then the crank pin can be sorted on the side it leans the wrong way.

 

*I prefer a press to a hammer, The latter will work, but care is needed to not damage the pin (or lose it when it flies out of the wheel!).

 

David


Edited by Il Grifone, 15 December 2017 - 11:06 .

  • Thanks x 1

#428 Golden Fleece 30

Golden Fleece 30

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 916 posts

Posted 15 December 2017 - 14:02

Hi David,

 

I have all the service sheets but they only mention the wheel assembly with the pin.

 

If they are like the 00 ones then there will be an oval recess on the back of the wheel which goes against my plan.  I was hoping it was something easier so I could convert some Castle or Jinty wheels to accept a return crank.  As it is it looks like I will have to use the tried and tested method of a screw/bolt through the rods and solder a return crank on the top.

 

The 00 ones were a brass part that took a screw through the return crank, TT has a steel one with the top threaded for a nut and the sides narrowed for the return crank to locate onto.

 

Garry 



#429 Il Grifone

Il Grifone

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 5,969 posts
  • LocationEssex next to the LT&SR and Sardinia Costa dei Grifoni

Posted 15 December 2017 - 17:45

Garry

 

I assume it's still a press fit however, but I don't know for certain. I would be inclined to the bolt method myself/

 

There is this on EBay at the moment - I'm not interested, as I already have one.

 

https://www.ebay.co....fYAAOSwGwlaJUh-

 

I don't know where the seller got the idea it's an SR wagon. It's a late MR design.

 

Southern cattle trucks were nothing like this.

 

David


  • Like x 1

#430 BernardTPM

BernardTPM

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 2,922 posts

Posted 15 December 2017 - 20:47

I don't know where the seller got the idea it's an SR wagon. It's a late MR design.

Southern cattle trucks were nothing like this.

Possibly from Hornby?



#431 Golden Fleece 30

Golden Fleece 30

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 916 posts

Posted 15 December 2017 - 21:05

Hi David,

 

Its not K's either, it is an ESANEL one as I have recently built one and painted it in a similar colour.  It is still awaiting couplings but is nice.  The ESANEL kits (part of BEC) were some of the best, especially in TT.  I have 4 of their Parcels vans and a few loco bodies.  The wagons and coaches had a nice interlocking system to help assembly. It is like dovetails cast in the floor/sides/roof and works well holding it all together before soldering.  I did not put the bars in mine either.

 

Someone has told me they think the Brit wheels had a cast T slot on the inside with the crank pin having a T tail which goes along with non turning, and, not being able to replicate.

 

Garry

Attached Thumbnails

  • ESANEL Cattle wagon.JPG

  • Agree x 1

#432 Il Grifone

Il Grifone

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 5,969 posts
  • LocationEssex next to the LT&SR and Sardinia Costa dei Grifoni

Posted 15 December 2017 - 22:00

Possibly from Hornby?

 

True!  I'd forgotten their aberration. I could never understand why they sold it as a sheep wagon.

 

 

Hi David,

 

Its not K's either, it is an ESANEL one as I have recently built one and painted it in a similar colour.  It is still awaiting couplings but is nice.  The ESANEL kits (part of BEC) were some of the best, especially in TT.  I have 4 of their Parcels vans and a few loco bodies.  The wagons and coaches had a nice interlocking system to help assembly. It is like dovetails cast in the floor/sides/roof and works well holding it all together before soldering.  I did not put the bars in mine either.

 

Someone has told me they think the Brit wheels had a cast T slot on the inside with the crank pin having a T tail which goes along with non turning, and, not being able to replicate.

 

Garry

 

Looking at it more closely, I think you're right Garry. The K's wagon doesn't have the angle irons on the end posts. I saw the K's box and the skew axle and put 2 and 2 together and made 5. I also see that's where the Southern came from - the end states SR (SECR) TARP WAGGON (sic)  so obviously it's not the correct box.

 

* I always use 'wagon' for a railway vehicle and 'waggon' for a  road vehicle with 4 wheels intended for equine etc. haulage, but I don't think the Oxford Dictionary is so pedantic.

 

David


Edited by Il Grifone, 15 December 2017 - 22:15 .


#433 Golden Fleece 30

Golden Fleece 30

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 916 posts

Posted 16 December 2017 - 06:08

Hi Garry,

Are these any help? http://www.tri-angtt...vice Sheets.htm

I would assume they are force fitted from the back of the wheel, like the 00 crank pins. Brute force will shift them* and then the crank pin can be sorted on the side it leans the wrong way.

*I prefer a press to a hammer, The latter will work, but care is needed to not damage the pin (or lose it when it flies out of the wheel!).

David


Hi David,

I been told the the crank pin maybe splined at the bottom end and pressed in like an axle which stops it turning. That may help slightly.

Garry

#434 Il Grifone

Il Grifone

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 5,969 posts
  • LocationEssex next to the LT&SR and Sardinia Costa dei Grifoni

Posted 16 December 2017 - 11:01

Hi Garry,

 

Just as long as they are not then riveted over like the Dublo ones. These are a right pig to remove.

 

David



#435 5050

5050

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 2,454 posts
  • LocationLiving in a dream

Posted 16 December 2017 - 13:06

Garry

 

I assume it's still a press fit however, but I don't know for certain. I would be inclined to the bolt method myself/

 

There is this on EBay at the moment - I'm not interested, as I already have one.

 

https://www.ebay.co....fYAAOSwGwlaJUh-

 

I don't know where the seller got the idea it's an SR wagon. It's a late MR design.

 

Southern cattle trucks were nothing like this.

 

David

Eee, that TT guage is gettin' right popular! :locomotive:



#436 Golden Fleece 30

Golden Fleece 30

    Member


  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 916 posts

Posted 16 December 2017 - 13:46

Eee, that TT guage is gettin' right popular! :locomotive:


And expensive at £150 + for Britannias and over £200 for some kit built ones. Pullmans can be over £50 and some blue and grey coaches over £250.

Garry
  • Agree x 1







Google Ads are only seen by non-members of RMweb - Create an RMweb account and you'll only receive modelling ads.