Il Grifone Posted September 13, 2018 Share Posted September 13, 2018 Hi Garry, BR Standards were designed for 13' 2" max height to fit the reduced loading gauge of inferior railways The 3MT tank used a slightly shortened version of the GWR no. 2 boiler, but i don't remember the diameter off hand. From the drawing it can be seen that Tri-ang's 4mm model is too long. Why they did this when they produced a new chassis block just for the model I don't know. I can understand the coupled wheelbase using the existing coupling rods, but that only accounts for a couple of millimetres or so (7' 9" + 8' 3" rather than 7' 7" + 7' 9"). The pony trucks are far too long. I'll have to see if shortening one is feasible without too much hassle. (I know leave well alone....) David 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Robert Shrives Posted September 13, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 13, 2018 Well that looks like £35 well spent - I know where next weeks food money will go ! Mine will be black and the chassis could be fun, the jinty does look the part. Will have to think on how to adapt some Worsely works etched valve gear and castle rods - but sure Garry will be miles ahead of mine. Robert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted September 13, 2018 Share Posted September 13, 2018 Well that looks like £35 well spent - I know where next weeks food money will go ! Mine will be black and the chassis could be fun, the jinty does look the part. Will have to think on how to adapt some Worsely works etched valve gear and castle rods - but sure Garry will be miles ahead of mine. Robert I hope you don't go hungry Robert. I bought this tank, an A5 and a B1. The B1 may need a chassis building for it due to a limited gap in the footplate, the A5 might accept a Tri-ang chassis but this tank is the best of the lot. I know the wheels may no be correct but as Tri-ang only made two sizes and Romfords are rare and expensive Jinty wheels will do. At the moment I am just going to use Castle slide bars etc as I am doing on the Stanier tank and if all goes well I may look at making some etched pieces for other parts. A B16 and J39 I think are next on the cards for 3D printing along with a couple of matching tenders. I have been told there is very little space inside the J39 and its designer is looking at using a motor in the tender to drive the loco. Garry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Robert Shrives Posted September 13, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 13, 2018 Garry, Worst case and depending on layout a powered parcels coach might give a solution. or you use it to "pull" a "failed" dmu. Tender chassis would end up like a union mills but it could help locos like the 2P / 4P by having two motors or having loco as a light weight pushalong with pickups american style. Robert. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted September 13, 2018 Share Posted September 13, 2018 (edited) I have done this the wrong way round really by painting and lining before I have even modified or fixed a chassis but I could not resist seeing it nearly completed. Just need to drill for the handrail pins, varnish and then fit the handrails. After that time to sort out the chassis, or, get on with the Stanier tank if the buffers come for it. Robert, mine will not get a tender drive but might need a fair bit of bodywork mods to sort something out, thats if the body looks okay when it is finished. Garry Edited September 13, 2018 by Golden Fleece 30 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Robert Shrives Posted September 14, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 14, 2018 Garry , That looks great ex-works before first ever steaming. Hope chassis works out ok - shame for her to become a shed queen! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 While messing around with the Standard 3 and Stanier tanks I have also been assembling and painting another BEC brush Type 4 which is nearing completion. Garry 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted September 16, 2018 Share Posted September 16, 2018 (edited) While putting transfers on the two Brush 4's I decided to paint the Stanier tank and line it out. I had run out of primer so had to put satin straight onto the whitemetal which should be fine. The buffer beams need to be done then varnished. The buffers are Tri-ang A1A's as the kit ones did not look too good. Having looked at this and the standard 3 tank with their chassis's in situ I think I may get some etched valve gear parts made and include the A3, V2 etc. Garry Edited September 17, 2018 by Golden Fleece 30 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 (edited) Hi Garry, Inspiring! I lettered a couple of Dublo N2s the other day (with 'Pressfix'. Maybe my mistake - it doesn't like being shifted once applied). One LNER 9563 and the other BR 69503. I'll have to work on them again as the numbers aren't quite straight.... Needing glasses for close work doesn't help either. David EDIT for hitting the wrong key! Edited September 17, 2018 by Il Grifone 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 (edited) Hi Garry' Inspiring! I lettered a couple of Dublo N2s the other day (with 'Pressfix'. Maybe my mistake - it doesn't like being shifted once applied). One LNER 9563 and the other BR 69503. I'll have to work on them again as the numbers aren't quite straight.... Needing glasses for close work doesn't help either. David Thanks David, I know what you mean about the Pressfix transfers, that was the recent issue around my Autocoach that I had to draw and transfer over them as I could not get them off. I am not a Pressfix lover but at times they are the only option as some waterslide ones show too much carrier film which is not always hidden under varnish. Even these Fox ones have at times an alignment issue where the grey and red are at different spaces/widths to the next piece, other times it is me :-(. I have had to wear glasses for a long time now and it is a pain the rear, my numbers are not often straight or equally spaced. At least with waterslide ones you can re-wet within a couple of minutes to move. My glasses are that strong that a door frame looks curved so it does not help sighting lining and numbers up but I have to put up with it these days. Garry Edited September 17, 2018 by Golden Fleece 30 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 (edited) A productive day with brush and spray can. The Brush 4's are completed paint wise with D1725 in gloss and the other in Matt. I need to source some buffer as D 1786 did not have any when I bought it. I think I am going to move the couplings back a couple of mm's as the bogie itself cannot go further back. The roofs are a tight fit so not fully down yet, one is in diesel roof grey the other in primer as no roof grey left. The Standard tank has its firebox bands in place and is now ex works although I may put satin or matt on the black, then fit some handrails. The Stanier had its buffer beams painted and is finished in satin. One of the Standard 5,s got a satin smokebox, footplate and roof to go with its ex works boiler. Unfortunately the satin does not show much difference but I may leave it as it was a pain masking out, but who knows? The rear two are yet to be stripped and painted although the rear one has been done well by its previous owner but the right hand side tender crest faces backwards (as it should be once BR were told off by the Heraldic association for having left and right version, I just prefer both facing forwards. One will be in green as per the front one. This is a little high as the previous owner did not fit the chassis correctly so needs some work doing to it. For some reason he also put the plastic valve gear support the wrong way around gluing the rods to it, hopefully easily to rectify. There is another of these awaiting a chimney before starting to paint and that should be enough. Just bought a 3D printed J39 and hopefully it will be as good as the Standard 3 tank. Garry Edited September 17, 2018 by Golden Fleece 30 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Robert Shrives Posted September 17, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 17, 2018 How many std 5s - The shed master at Bath Green park will spin with envy ! - they do look good. I might have some buffers for the Brush 4 ! I look forward to valve gear developments. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 Brush type 4s always had green roofs in that livery, not grey. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 Brush type 4s always had green roofs in that livery, not grey. Its modellers licence Bernard, I did not like the green roofs they did not give them any appeal to me. Garry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted September 17, 2018 Share Posted September 17, 2018 How many std 5s - The shed master at Bath Green park will spin with envy ! - they do look good. I might have some buffers for the Brush 4 ! I look forward to valve gear developments. The 6 here plus one more Robert. The one not finished yet may get a high sided tender although I do have a few Britannia tenders spare, who knows I may do another 9F (Evening Star?). The valve gear will be a while and basically a Tri-ang design. With the two locos here I have re shaped the Castle slidebars but then thought about lowering the mounting plate position. This would enable an etched one to be flat on the top and not require the body to have a wide slot for them to fit into and be bent. The return cranks would have to be soldered onto the crank pin but I guess that is normal procedure. As I will be doing slightly different ones for these two I may as well look at some for the A3 and V2 on the same etch. Garry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted September 18, 2018 Share Posted September 18, 2018 Its modellers licence Bernard, I did not like the green roofs they did not give them any appeal to me. Garry Fair enough, Garry! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted September 20, 2018 Share Posted September 20, 2018 I recently acquired this unopened TT scale wagon kit and have assembled it. Not many parts thank goodness. The floor, 2 ends and 1 side were soldered together and then the axle boxes were drilled to allow the Jackson/Nucro wheels to run freely and the second side was glued on, I did this so I did not have to wash any flux off after fitting the wheels. It is a basic paint job which may not be correct but with modellers licence. The photograph shows up its flaws where the colours need touching up but overall something different for the layout, I don't like painting wagons. All I need to do now is modify a couple of Tri-ang couplings to fit the "pegs" and it will be ready. I have a few more whitemetal wagons to assemble but don't think they are K's. Garry 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 (edited) Hi Garry, The K's kit is a Midland Railway wagon, but they did get around (I know the LSWR acquired some through the SDJR and the GWR from the B & M), so it's probably quite OK. 'Rule 1' applies in any case.... David Edited September 24, 2018 by Il Grifone Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 Hi Garry, The K's kit is a Midland Railway wagon, but they did get around (I know the LSWR acquired some through the SDJR and the GWR from the B & M), so it's probably quite OK. 'Rule 1' applies in any case.... David Hi David, Wagons are the bottom of my list which is the opposite to BR where wagons were the largest quantity of stock etc, with me they are the lowest. I know where most locos originate from and a few coaches but no idea on any wagon lol. The transfers were actually the only set I had in stock anyway that were of a suitable size. Garry Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted September 24, 2018 Share Posted September 24, 2018 (edited) Another loco on the go, this time a J39. This is another 3D printed resin model. The body will not take a Tri-ang chassis with motor although a scratchbuilt one would fit. I have decided to keep with Tri-ang and use a cut down Jinty chassis and fit a tender (when I get one) with the A1A motor bogie. The wheel spacing is not quite right but near enough. The splashers are a little small with no wheel cutout but I have ground a small recess to allow the body to sit lower as it is too high. I may have to build a tender with heavy gauge brass for weight though.Garry Edited September 24, 2018 by Golden Fleece 30 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Il Grifone Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 (edited) Hi David, Wagons are the bottom of my list which is the opposite to BR where wagons were the largest quantity of stock etc, with me they are the lowest. I know where most locos originate from and a few coaches but no idea on any wagon lol. The transfers were actually the only set I had in stock anyway that were of a suitable size. Garry Hi Garry, The opposite from myself. I have far more wagons than locomotives. ( SWMBO says I have too many of the former, but that makes no sense at all! ) Discretion says to not reveal how many! I built the Kenline 00 kit of this wagon many years ago and was quite pleased with the result. It was only later that I found out that, despite the SR livery, it was in fact the same wagon as the K's kit. This produces a rather better model (for a lot less effort), so it was scrapped. The remains are istill in a box somewhere... David (dal sole di Sardegna - it is a bit windy today though!) P.S. Strange coincidence - I've just found an old MRJ with an article by Ian rice on building a J39. I have a GBL one awaiting attention.... Edited September 25, 2018 by Il Grifone 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 At 27p per axle I could not go wrong with a few hundred of these TT wheel sets, beats the £1.75 per axle now for a 00 one that needs trimming. Garry 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium NCB Posted September 25, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted September 25, 2018 Are those Jackson wheels? Look similar to some 00 ones I have. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Golden Fleece 30 Posted September 25, 2018 Share Posted September 25, 2018 Are those Jackson wheels? Look similar to some 00 ones I have. Yes but TT gauge. There was another 1000 but I missed out on them but got 500+ here. Garry 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Robert Shrives Posted September 26, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted September 26, 2018 Good deal I hope on the wheels - saw a pile like this at Doncaster works once ! Robert 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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