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Hi   Can anyone point me in the direction of the tread and flange profiles I need for running on code 75 track  as I have some old Triang wheel tyres I want to turn down.

 

I have done some tyres for code 100 which seem to be working well so I am wondering about going even finer now I have made a mandrel to take the tyres as I have quite a few wheels in my scrap box.

 

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Hi   Can anyone point me in the direction of the tread and flange profiles I need for running on code 75 track  as I have some old Triang wheel tyres I want to turn down.

 

I have done some tyres for code 100 which seem to be working well so I am wondering about going even finer now I have made a mandrel to take the tyres as I have quite a few wheels in my scrap box.

 

Look up RP25

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I think you will find with Tri-Ang and early Tri-Ang/Hornby ~ Hornby that the back to back is also a problem.  Flange depth doesn't seem to be such an issue.  I have rewheeled some of my old Tri-Ang models with Romfords / Markits wheels to deal with these back to back issues. 

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  • 2 weeks later...
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I think you will find with Tri-Ang and early Tri-Ang/Hornby ~ Hornby that the back to back is also a problem.  Flange depth doesn't seem to be such an issue.  I have rewheeled some of my old Tri-Ang models with Romfords / Markits wheels to deal with these back to back issues. 

Which models did you re-wheel, and which Romford/Markits wheels did you use?

 

I have a Tri-ang Met-Camm dmu, class 81 and Blue Pullman that I'd like to re-wheel.

 

cheers N

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Wheels for Tri-ang power bogies are available on eBay at a price.

 

I rewheeled my Triang DMU using metal Dublo wheels (for Dublo track). A fairly substantial wheel boss is required to drill out to take the Tri-ang axle. The profile of these is probably too coarse for code 75 (the flanges are about 1.2mm deep) though they are similar to older (70s/80s/90s) Hornby wheels. Probably the latest Hornby wheels are suitable for the carrying wheels and the powered wheels can be turned down. There is plenty of 'meat' to thin down the flanges. Peco used to do wheels for converting Tri-ang rolling stock to scale. These turn up from time to time on eBay but do have the disadvantage of being plastic (nylon).

 

There is some discussion on replacing/returning Tri-ang wheels here (on this page an AL1 and there is more on other pages).

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/116538-tri-ang-railways/page-11

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Which models did you re-wheel, and which Romford/Markits wheels did you use?

 

I have a Tri-ang Met-Camm dmu, class 81 and Blue Pullman that I'd like to re-wheel.

 

cheers N

 

I have done the Romford conversion in the past, however the crank throw on the standard Romford wheels is very short and they change the appearance of the locos quite considerably which is why I am turning down Triang flanges.

The Markits "Triang" axles which fit directly into the chassis and the knurled ones take the gear wheels directly make re wheeling these models a lot easier than the old Romford 1/8th axles which needed bushing. 

Power bogies are a bit difficult as ideally you need to fill in the spokes in the standard Romford 14mm etc wheels with Araldite or similar to represent disc wheels and they benefit from shimming the gear wheels to take the side play against the chassis instead of against the backs of the wheels which seems to make the wheels come loose. Without shims the wheels have excess sideplay which plays havoc with the pick ups and can lead to large steam locos being out gauge as they crab  down the track.

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Which models did you re-wheel, and which Romford/Markits wheels did you use?

 

I have a Tri-ang Met-Camm dmu, class 81 and Blue Pullman that I'd like to re-wheel.

 

cheers N

 

Sorry for the delay in responding.  It's mainly been steam locos that I've rewheeled - L1; Polly; Wills 94xx on Jinty chassis and such like.  

 

I have also rewheeled a set of clerestories by dropping in new Romford coach wheel sets to replace the original late 1960s vintage pin point axles. 

 

I recently rewheeled a pair of Trestrol bogies - these also required new brass bearings as well as disk wagon wheels (they had the old style axle rod with two plastic half wheel/axles rather than the later pinpoint axles.)

 

Finally, I have rewheeled most of a Tri-Ang Hornby Blue Pullman by replacing all but the motor bogie wheels.  [OK,  chickened out with the motor bogie - I seem to recall someone did replacement wheel sets with gears for the Tri-Ang motor bogies but can't recall who.]  Despite the crude back to back the unit does run happily on Peco code 100 much to my surprise.

 

Now to try out my Metro Camel units - albeit the more recent (1980s?) one has finer wheels than the late 1960s / early 1970s one. 

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Sorry for the delay in responding.  It's mainly been steam locos that I've rewheeled - L1; Polly; Wills 94xx on Jinty chassis and such like.  

 

I have also rewheeled a set of clerestories by dropping in new Romford coach wheel sets to replace the original late 1960s vintage pin point axles. 

 

I recently rewheeled a pair of Trestrol bogies - these also required new brass bearings as well as disk wagon wheels (they had the old style axle rod with two plastic half wheel/axles rather than the later pinpoint axles.)

 

Finally, I have rewheeled most of a Tri-Ang Hornby Blue Pullman by replacing all but the motor bogie wheels.  [OK,  chickened out with the motor bogie - I seem to recall someone did replacement wheel sets with gears for the Tri-Ang motor bogies but can't recall who.]  Despite the crude back to back the unit does run happily on Peco code 100 much to my surprise.

 

Now to try out my Metro Camel units - albeit the more recent (1980s?) one has finer wheels than the late 1960s / early 1970s one. 

 

Peco code 100 was originally designed to accept Tri-ang wheels. It was allegedly universal for then current wheels, but relied on 'slop' to do so. By the eighties, Tri-ang wheels were supposedly obsolete, so they could tighten the pointwork up a bit (0.2mm off the flangeways I believe). Theoretically there is still sufficient clearance (just), but easing out the wheels (or tuning down the flange thickness) a tad might be necessary.

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