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Tenshodo spud


sb67
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I've built a Silver Fox Hunslet shunter kit and got a Tenshodo spud to power it. Can anyone tell me how to get the best out of the motor? It runs terrible, I've cleaned what I can and I cant see any oiling points. I've run it in but cant see what else I can do, I really bwant to run the model but the motor is jerky and way too fast, any ideas most welcome?

Thanks.

Steve.

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Agreed that Black Beetle and Bull Ant are better, but Tenshodo "Spuds" are not really that bad, in the context of DMUs, railbuses, etc.

 

But for a shunter, none of these really do the business. It needs something with much higher gear ratios.

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Thanks for the info guys, I was afraid that was the case, it was a project that has been in the cupboard for a few years and when I bought the kit I didn't know about other motors. 

Steve.

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I've used SPUD's on Gaugemaster HH's feedback units for years with excellent slow moving results. Just remember they heat up and get a bit noisy, but as long as you don't leave them for hours on a continuous circuit then they are excellent value for the price.

 

On a Pentroller or Pictroller they run quieter and cooler but not quite as good at crawling.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've built a Silver Fox Hunslet shunter kit and got a Tenshodo spud to power it. Can anyone tell me how to get the best out of the motor? It runs terrible, I've cleaned what I can and I cant see any oiling points. I've run it in but cant see what else I can do, I really bwant to run the model but the motor is jerky and way too fast, any ideas most welcome?

Thanks.

Steve.

Do you have any photos of the kit, or details of it, please?

 

If it is the 24mm wheelbase Spud there's a chance you could fit a High Level Quadriver and bin the Spud.

I remember fitting Spuds to A1 Models Ruston 48DS kits, years ago. They would run alright (if you call taking off like a rocket right) for about a week and just get worse. The motors in them are absollutely useless for low-speed shunting locomotives..

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The wheelbase should be 5'6" with 3'4" wheels but you can't see much of them with the skirts fitted. The High Level Quadriver 23 we supply with our RH 88DS kit is fairly close and as Ruston says will work a lot better.

 

Thanks for that Michael. Just had a look on the website and might get one although they do look like it will challenge my modelling skills! 

Steve.

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With the right controller SPUDS can be quite good units, I have two under 0:16.5 locos. If yours is jerky check the worm wheels on the axles in case one has split, It's a known problem with these units, one of mine failed this way, spares are available. I got mine from DC kits (http://www.dckits-devideos.co.uk/shop/tenshodo_motor_bogies/) though currently they seem to only have complete gear sets.

Edited by JeremyC
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I acquired a Spud with a Branchlines Muir Hill Tractor kit a few weeks ago, and I've been pondering whether to spend any time getting it to run better, to adapt an existing, spare scratchbuilt 24mm chassis I built for a 'critter' shunter a few years ago, or get hold of a Black Beetle.

 

It will probably be the latter.

 

It looks like being a case of Spud-U-Don't-Like.

Edited by Captain Kernow
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I prefer the Black Beetle over the SPUDs, although I have tried a few SPUDs over the years. The only one that I found ran really well, very smoothly and quietly, was one in a London Transport 1938 stock kit I built ... unfortunately, it was built for someone else, so wasn't mine!

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  • 5 months later...

Hi , going back to the original question from August do these power bogies have a specific lubrication point ?

 

I had to take the baseplate off to oil it and the only way I got it to run half decent was to put a pretty heavy weight on it, still not slow enough for a shunting loco.

Steve.

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Spuds benefit immensely from the addition of lots of weight. I have one under a Roxey whitemetal kit for a Hibberd & Co diesel shunter.

 

post-6793-0-55453500-1517812056_thumb.jpg

 

I added lead sheet wherever I could squeeze some in. It is a pleasantly controllable beast now. Before spending money or binning the spud I'd advise filling the roomy body of your Hunslet shunter with lead.

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I agree with the weight thing I have a Sentinel and a Tram loco  both old nucast? kits stuffed full of weight, both nice and slow but grindy good on a combi controller but my eord reaaly nice with a feedback device.

 

To follw that through I got hold of a Y10 mock up from shapeways and put lead sheet everywhere I could reach and got a very reasonable result.

 

i'm not so sure about the very slow running however having spent a day at a shunting yard, the drivers were very careful when coupled and coupling but running light loco they just opened up and when at destination slammed on the brakes.

 

no particular connection with any company mentioned just happy customer

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Spuds benefit immensely from the addition of lots of weight. I have one under a Roxey whitemetal kit for a Hibberd & Co diesel shunter.

 

attachicon.gifmarsh 5.jpg

 

I added lead sheet wherever I could squeeze some in. It is a pleasantly controllable beast now. Before spending money or binning the spud I'd advise filling the roomy body of your Hunslet shunter with lead.

I have one of these locos and it runs well with the Tenshodo. I purchased it for £50 'ready to go' last year apart from a bit of paintwork. My problem is it is only fitted for 3-link couplings and I want to fit automatic couplings.

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  • 3 months later...

Anyone wanting a spud replacement could do worse than looking at the Locos n stuff Universal power bogie.

 

https://www.locosnstuff.com/Parts-and-accessories.php

 

I recently got one to try and here's a video of a 'half built' one running on a 3.7v lipo battery, when I say half built I haven't yet fitted the worm and gear to the trailing axle. So far so good.....

 

 

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I have used spuds since they appeared on the market in my trams, railcars etc. even reguaging  with 2mm steel rod, but still using the plastic gears. The latter has caused problems, but as previously said, they are replaceable. I found the issue to be that the gear is forced over the knurled area on the axles causing them to split. I remove the wheelset, press off one wheel, spin up the axle in a mini-drill and remove the burrs with a small file. That sounds a lot but its very quick. Replace the new gear on the centre of the axle, secured with a spot of superglue, replace wheel and wheelset. Job done.

Having said all that, it would be very helpful to us all if Tenshodo had supplied BRASS skew wound gears in the first place!!

OH and the control of speed issue, is either the weight addition as also previously said, or fit a resistor.

 

Happy modelling

 

Tod

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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