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That downpipe is brilliant. Can you please share how you made it?

Well...the downpipe itself is 3.5mm brass rod, the pipe coming into it is bent round to 90 degrees and cut off flush with the wall and then just soldered on. The joint knuckles are kitchen foil laminated to double-sided tape, cut into strips about 2mm wide and then two lengths of very very fine Slater's micro-rod stuck onto this to represent the ribs. Then cut into 12mm strips and wrapped around the rod and held on the back with a blob of superglue. The actual fixings I expect will be plasticard with plasticard cube bolts. Hope that helps!

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I've also found the loco kit building seems to take (me) an inordinate amount of time and effort and there often seems little to show for it. It got to the stage that I put the loco kits to one side and instead concentrated efforts on boards, track and electrics. Progress is much more apparent and shortly I'll be at the stage of having the ability of testing the almost finished loco kits on the layout. I do slightly envy those with the skill and experience that enables them to knock out a completed loco kit in a week.

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Well...the downpipe itself is 3.5mm brass rod, the pipe coming into it is bent round to 90 degrees and cut off flush with the wall and then just soldered on. The joint knuckles are kitchen foil laminated to double-sided tape, cut into strips about 2mm wide and then two lengths of very very fine Slater's micro-rod stuck onto this to represent the ribs. Then cut into 12mm strips and wrapped around the rod and held on the back with a blob of superglue. The actual fixings I expect will be plasticard with plasticard cube bolts. Hope that helps!

I can only fully respect anybody who puts this amount of thought into the construction of something as seemingly as simple as a waste pipe. Excellent work!

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I can only fully respect anybody who puts this amount of thought into the construction of something as seemingly as simple as a waste pipe. Excellent work!

You see now why I’m worried about finishing it on time...!

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That looks fabulous! How did you do the ivy, in the end?

Actually by chance....I came across some leaves in the garden that had dried out to just the veins - very fragile and delicate. I dabbed them in PVA and stuck them onto the wall and weighted them down to get them flat. After a while and whilst still tacky, I sprinkled dried-out tea leaves on and pressed them down to represent dead ivy leaves. You don't see the finished article lower down the wall as this will be hidden by a wall in front of it.

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I can only fully respect anybody who puts this amount of thought into the construction of something as seemingly as simple as a waste pipe. Excellent work!

I was disappointed that it wasn't actually hollow, working and connected to a model pan inside.......

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Looking really effective with the office building now in place.

 

Dare I ask what colours you have used to achieve the realistic slate roofing please ?

 

Grahame

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Of course you can ask; the answer however isn't very interesting....black and white! With a tiny bit of light brown. With lighter shades on the lead flashing and vertical streaks of white. One handy knack, apply the streaks upwards with a dry brush.

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Of course you can ask; the answer however isn't very interesting....black and white! With a tiny bit of light brown. With lighter shades on the lead flashing and vertical streaks of white. One handy knack, apply the streaks upwards with a dry brush.

Thank you, much appreciated, it’s always a strange one to get right for me as I’m my own worst critic !

 

I’ve used various mediums and although generally I accept what I’ve done I feel that you have captured a most realistic looking roof.

 

Grahame

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I had one of those ‘breakthrough’ evenings yesterday when something that seemingly plods on for a while with little perceived progress suddenly comes together. Here, then, are a couple of snaps of the cab with most of the fittings. Still a bit of cleaning up to do but I’m a happy chappy.

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OK, here goes an update report; the loco is coming along quite nicely, the body is largely complete, just a few details to add and sort out the dodgy flare on the dome.

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The backhead is painted and will be semi-permanently fitted once the cab is painted.post-31608-0-69749300-1521915601_thumb.jpeg

Here is a selection of detail bits and bobs also to be added once the loco is painted, including scratch built reversing rod, salters and clacks. The spectacles are glazed and the tapered vertical hand rails are from Laurie Griffin’s fabulous selection.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I need some advice - does anyone know how this little lot goes together? There are no drawings or any other indication in the instructions as to how the dummy inside motion goes, and I’ve had zero help from Mercian Models. Any ideas?!

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Do you have Midland Engines No. 3 on the Class 3 rebuilds? That'll have some official drawings which might help - as far as I'm aware the original motion was retained when the Johnson standard goods engines were rebuilt to what became the 3F.

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