BG John Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 (edited) What was this thread about, remind me again ? The subject was last mentioned in post 24, although in a rather devious way . Edited September 3, 2017 by BG John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BG John Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 I use an iPad on the forums and with my podgy fingers I get commas in all sorts of odd places I never asked for and even with auto correct turned off all sorts of correctly spelled (spelt?) but wrong words in my communiques, except this time of course as I try and fail to prove my point. Rob A poor workman always blames his tools . Although in this case, you may well be using the wrong tool for a task that needs a decent keyboard . Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junctionmad Posted September 3, 2017 Share Posted September 3, 2017 (edited) "A poor workman always blames his tools" The tool behind the tool syndrome, as its known Edited September 3, 2017 by Junctionmad Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SquireBev Posted October 14, 2017 Share Posted October 14, 2017 Just to piggy back on this topic, how feasible would it be to rig up a basic battery powered controller with a switch and and a potentiometer? I'm thinking of starting a little N-gauge Inglenook and don't fancy shelling out on a proper controller! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SquireBev Posted October 15, 2017 Share Posted October 15, 2017 So it is doable then. Thanks! I ought to actually plan the layout itself first though... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
CourthsVeil Posted October 18, 2017 Share Posted October 18, 2017 Look here: a simple circuit for Dutch_Master's proposal: to make on a PCB - copper stripes vertical - the big oval comprising the potentiometer. 9V entering from above (blue = negative!), below to DPDT/track. Don't forget the heat sink! Regards Armin Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junctionmad Posted October 20, 2017 Share Posted October 20, 2017 Look here: a simple circuit for Dutch_Master's proposal: ~FR simpl.gif to make on a PCB - copper stripes vertical - the big oval comprising the potentiometer. 9V entering from above (blue = negative!), below to DPDT/track. Don't forget the heat sink! Regards Armin No real need for the diode actually. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Junctionmad Posted October 22, 2017 Share Posted October 22, 2017 (edited) Actually, there is That motor is still an inductor in principle and although the TIP3055 can handle a lot of abuse current-wise, it's only a 60V device and motor spikes can be a significant multiple of that, even on "straight" DC! The design drawing in the post above uses a BD643, which already has a diode in it. furthermore just using a TIP3055, which has a Hfe as low as 5 in certain cases, ( and typically has a hFe of 20 ) would put the pot under thermal strain , hence the darlington pair BD 643 is a far superior solution , designs with a TIP 3055 typically are connected in a darlington formation was this very reason Edited October 22, 2017 by Junctionmad Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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