RMweb Gold Regularity Posted June 10, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 10, 2018 Skill is the result of patience, not of innate ability. The latter just means that less practice is required! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 I’m not sure. I think some kind of innate ability, or potential, is needed. Despite having the tools, and practicing, Eric Clapton has nothing to fear Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted June 10, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted June 10, 2018 (edited) Francis Rossi still practices scales on his guitar for two hours every day.There might be something in that.After seeing Jimi Hendrix whilst he was still relatively unknown, Eric Clapton was walking back with fellow railway modeller Roger Daltrey, and commented that he was going to have to go home and practice.Roger Daltrey’s comment on this anecdote is, “I’d hate to be a guitarist!” Edit: Jeff Beck - the "guitarists' guitarist" - was on Radio 2 this morning. He still practices every day. Edited June 11, 2018 by Regularity Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted June 10, 2018 Share Posted June 10, 2018 To be fair, I never had the urge to do two hours of scales each day. When I lived in India, and had no modelling stuff with me, I probably played for an hour or so every day. Then again, I did need to go to work... JDB - sorry, we’re getting more and more off track - apologies! Best Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share Posted June 16, 2018 Very little progress over the last week or so, and if this evening is anything to go by, now the World Cup has started, I suspect progress may stay at a snails pace! currently tapping wheels and bushes, as suggested. Not much to photograph, but I’ll let you know if it runs more smoothly after the modifications! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 Would of thought the world cup would make an ideal time to get to the bench, now there are a 100 channels of football not just a dozen. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted June 16, 2018 Author Share Posted June 16, 2018 Clearly multitasking is not my forte! I had the France v Australia match on earlier, and only managed to tap 3 bushes and wheels in that time! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted June 16, 2018 Share Posted June 16, 2018 Vide my PD thread - one of my attempts at point building was somewhat wrecked by watching a movie with the kids. From time to time it is necessary to concentrate... Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LaScala Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 I’m not sure. I think some kind of innate ability, or potential, is needed. Despite having the tools, and practicing, Eric Clapton has nothing to fear Best Simon Excepting his abilty to play at all in the near future with his health issueshttps://globalnews.ca/news/3348047/eric-clapton-seen-in-wheelchair-after-cancelling-shows-due-to-severe-illness/ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted June 17, 2018 Share Posted June 17, 2018 (edited) “Nothing to fear” from me at least! I wish him well, let’s hope he makes a speedy recovery from the bronchitis. Best Simon Edited June 17, 2018 by Simond Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted June 24, 2018 Author Share Posted June 24, 2018 Had a good amount of time this weekend to work on the MW, and now the chassis is pretty much complete, although I've still not had much of a go at sorting the slight tight spot seen on the last video. I finished tapping the wheels and crankpin bushes, and added the brake pull rods on either side and cleaned them up. The sand pipes both front and back were relatively straightforwards. The guard irons on this kit are separate to the chassis, and are attached with nickel wire, which also doubles up as bolts. It was easier to pass wire all the way through the chassis and thread the guard irons on to make sure they went on straight. The tight spot needs some thought. It's not really tight, but you can here the difference in sound in the motor when it reaches it. The problem likely lies in one of two places. a) after I bent it through 90 degrees, the repair stretched one rod, making it too long. I opened up the holes to allow it to fit. or b) A couple of the crank pins are not totally perpendicular to the wheel face - not sure if that's happened when I tapped it, or if the hole wasn't right to start with... In my last shipment, I ordered some Manning Wardle coupling rods from Slaters, which should be the right size. I'm going to make these up just to see what happens. Can't do any harm! 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted July 18, 2018 Author Share Posted July 18, 2018 I actually had to check through my previous posts before starting work on the MW again this week to see where I had got to! Trips abroad and in-laws now behind me, I can look forwards to a summer of good progress on the build (there are some benefits to being a teacher!). I may have to share my time between building cots, changing tables and painting the nursery, but I'll be spending as much time as possible at the bench before baby JDB82 evicts me from the current room in September ;-) So job number 1 was to find the tight spot and sort that out. I attached the rods to the wheels with the newly tapped 10BA bushes. This was the first time I had them on since attaching the brake pull rod to the brake blocks. Having followed the instructions to fit them "as close to the wheels without touching", I realised I had made (another) rookie mistake...... I did not check that the pull rod would foul the coupling rods as they reached the high point of their arc. In my impatience to make things look good, I had already snipped off the wires that the pulls rods were mounted on. Grrrr.... The two rods only just clashed, but something had to be done. Moving the pull rod out further was only an option if I dismantled the brake blocks and hangers; although this is what I should have done, it seemed like a lot of work when there was an easier solution, albeit probably not one for the purists. Adding a couple of extra washers between the face of the wheel and the coupling rod was enough to move the coupling rod out and away from hitting the brake pull rod. Not a modification that you would particularly notice unless you went looking for it, or knew it had been done. Although now, you all know it's been done...... I then soldered these washers together to make it more visually appealing if you happen to go looking underneath. Repeat x6. Next to the rods. In my previous post I had talked about making up rods I had purchased back in the UK. One side was made up successfully - neat, accurate and fitting the jig (left set up from earlier in the build. Things were looking good. Round 1 to me. I think I may be making a 'rod' for my own back on this build. Having mangled one rod back in April, you'd have thought I would have learnt to be more careful. Round 2 to the 2nd rod. For some inexplicable reason, I decided to open out the crank pin bush hole with a drill (as I had for the first side), however rather than wait until all 3 layers were laminated and strong, I drilled it out (or tried to) when they were still single layers on the fret. Bad move. Predictably. Which makes it even more annoying. Still, I won't do it again! I am learning from my mistakes, in that I haven't repeated the same thing twice. I'm just finding lots of different ways to make other mistakes!! To complete the chassis details, I need to obtain some 10 or 12mm tube for the air reservoir for the Westinghouse brake system. This hangs from the chassis at the back, underneath bunker. In the absence of any brass tube being obtainable here, I'll have a trip down to the local hardware shop and see what copper plumbing pipe they have. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted July 18, 2018 Author Share Posted July 18, 2018 I seem to have sorted the tight spot this afternoon - I found the spot that was causing the problem, and just carefully elongated the hole in the coupling rod. I also thinned down the bush a little, by spinning it in the mini drill and applying gentle pressure with a file on the bush. Having put it all back together again, it seems to have cured the problem. Let's see if it stays sorted after painting! 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted July 18, 2018 Author Share Posted July 18, 2018 And so while I wait for an opportunity to nip out and get some copper pipe for the air reservoir (currently in the middle of a biblical storm), I have made a start removing, de-burring, de-tabbing and polishing the main running plate pieces. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted July 18, 2018 Share Posted July 18, 2018 (edited) Looking good. One thing to watch is if you need to elongated a coupling rod hole the axle bushes are wrong. You should always check the axle bushes with the coupling rods and check that both coupling rods are the same. You must never assume the coupling rods, axle bushes will be right. They always need checking. Edited July 18, 2018 by N15class Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted July 19, 2018 Author Share Posted July 19, 2018 Looking good. One thing to watch is if you need to elongated a coupling rod hole the axle bushes are wrong. You should always check the axle bushes with the coupling rods and check that both coupling rods are the same. You must never assume the coupling rods, axle bushes will be right. They always need checking. Wise words of wisdom as always, very much appreciated :-) For now, it seems to have done the trick - for how long, we shall see!! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted July 19, 2018 Share Posted July 19, 2018 Fully agree with Peter. A useful tool is a set of dummy axles - 3/16” silver steel ground bar, about 100mm long with the ends turned down to 2.4mm, to fit the coupling rods. Check your coupling rods match one another once assembled. Put the dummy axles through the bushes and frames. Put the rods on the dummy axles, use rubber bands to keep them on. Rest the dummy axles on two lengths of something parallel (planed wood, at a push), check that the bushes now fit in the frames with no wobble or rock, or adjust the frames as required by opening out the holes carefully. Ensure that the axles are perpendicular to the frames. Finally solder bushes to the frames. Going one stage further, the same approach is used with hornblocks. Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted July 19, 2018 Author Share Posted July 19, 2018 Gents, The frames, bushes and rods were all constructed using the MasterChassis jig, so everything should(?!) be square and parallel. I think the issue came about when the rod was elongated after it's repair. All seems good currently though :-) John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted July 19, 2018 Share Posted July 19, 2018 Ah, John, if you’re using a jig, all should be well. You may conclude that despite my interest in things electronical and softwarish, I’m a bit of a Luddite at heart... Best Simon 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted July 19, 2018 Share Posted July 19, 2018 Or try the penniless method: Having checked that left and right are identical,place the coupling rods over the wheel centres under a good light and with glasses if required. Any discrepancies stand out. Just don't try to kid yourself that it is almost perfect, it is either right or wrong. Now repeat on t'other side. How to correct is another question. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted July 20, 2018 Author Share Posted July 20, 2018 Don't think I'm going to be winning any kind of speed modelling competition! Spent this evening making a start on the running plate. The buffer beams come in 2 pieces: a full thickness layer, followed by a half-etch top layer with rivet details etc. Can't help thinking they look a bit on the thin side. I did toy with adding an extra layer, but thought better of it in the end and will just stick to the kit design. I held the layers together with sprung clips whilst I tack soldered them in place, before attempting to use minimal solder to finish it off. My last build I used way too much solder, so this time I'm attempting to rectify that. And after a clean up: I then dimpled out the row of rivets just behind the front buffer beam, and moved on to the back buffer beam. Only added the initial layer before I ran out of time. After cleaning up and giving it a couple of grades of Gariflex, I'm pretty pleased with improvements made from my first build in terms of keeping everything neat, tidy and clean. Wonder how long it will last..... Even underneath looks OK! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted July 20, 2018 Share Posted July 20, 2018 Don't think I'm going to be winning any kind of speed modelling competition! Spent this evening making a start on the running plate. The buffer beams come in 2 pieces: a full thickness layer, followed by a half-etch top layer with rivet details etc. Can't help thinking they look a bit on the thin side. I did toy with adding an extra layer, but thought better of it in the end and will just stick to the kit design. I held the layers together with sprung clips whilst I tack soldered them in place, before attempting to use minimal solder to finish it off. My last build I used way too much solder, so this time I'm attempting to rectify that. IMG_8542.JPG And after a clean up: IMG_8543.JPG I then dimpled out the row of rivets just behind the front buffer beam, and moved on to the back buffer beam. Only added the initial layer before I ran out of time. After cleaning up and giving it a couple of grades of Gariflex, I'm pretty pleased with improvements made from my first build in terms of keeping everything neat, tidy and clean. Wonder how long it will last..... IMG_8548.JPG Even underneath looks OK! IMG_8552.JPG Looking very neat. This is where you need photos of the chosen prototype. Some MW locomotives used a wooden sandwich buffer. This may have been replaced at a later date with an all steel version. The position of the buffer beam compensates for the diameter of the wheels. The K class is above the footplate. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted July 21, 2018 Author Share Posted July 21, 2018 Looking very neat. This is where you need photos of the chosen prototype. Some MW locomotives used a wooden sandwich buffer. This may have been replaced at a later date with an all steel version. The position of the buffer beam compensates for the diameter of the wheels. The K class is above the footplate. I have a few photos and a couple of drawings of Bamburgh, and it seems as though the beams were steel (have a look at the photos in post #213 and see what you think). As you rightly point out, the beams come above the footplate, and the kit follows this as per the prototype Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doilum Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 I have a few photos and a couple of drawings of Bamburgh, and it seems as though the beams were steel (have a look at the photos in post #213 and see what you think). As you rightly point out, the beams come above the footplate, and the kit follows this as per the prototype Looks like steel. Have you some self contained buffers, or will it require some califudging under the sand boxes? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdb82 Posted July 21, 2018 Author Share Posted July 21, 2018 Looks like steel. Have you some self contained buffers, or will it require some califudging under the sand boxes? Sprung buffers were provided with the kit - I haven't offered them up yet, but they should fit without too many problems 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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