Jump to content
 

Andrew Barclay 14" & 16" 0-4-0ST in OO Gauge


Hattons Dave
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi,

 

Does anyone know if the CR  loco can  be easily converted to EM please?

 

Or is a new scratch built chassis needed?

I can’t speak to ease of conversion but Chris Gibbon of HighLevel is looking into doing a chassis for the Barclay. I’m sure that he will report back to us if and when it is ready. (No pressure Chris). There were some problems getting drawings and the whole thing has to be adapted to fit the Hattons body so it may take a while but should be worth the wait based on past products.

 

Cheers,

 

David

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I returned my 'Fina' one, because of poor running and the promptly-sent replacement does run better, but has a loose buffer!

 

Whilst I could always request another replacement (locos shouldn't be supplied with loose buffers), I've decided that I want larger buffer heads anyway, so I'll end up fitting some Alan Gibson industrial ones in due course.

 

I'll also replace the bendy plastic handrail on the saddle tank.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Barclay 1964/29 worked all its working life at Corn Products (CPC) in Trafford Park, Manchester

Thanks for your help.

 

 

Central back sheet windows were yet another "off the shelf" option from Barclays.

 

 

Dunstable 19/6/54

 

http://rcts.zenfolio.com/industrial-and-light/industrial-steam/apcm-ltd-dunstable/hA0FCE612#ha0fce612

 

Slowly I'm beginning to realise "Standard" Andrew Barclay locomotives were anything but standard.

 

 

 

Yer kidding us on, aren't you?

76-0242A by Christopher Yapp, on Flickr

 

 

 

Originally starch products used in the processing of cotton (Think Cotton & Weaving industries of North West England) branching out into many of the things that can be produced from grain and maize including distilling of pure alcohol etc. to making custard powder. (After the take over of Brown & Polson) As ever Google is your friend.

 

https://britainfromabove.org.uk/en/image/EPW027983

 

Hattons CPC loco when the works was being operated under the name "Brown & Polson"

 

Andrew Barclay 1964 Brown and Polson Trafford Park Manchester 28 Nov 1964 by Charlie Verrall, on Flickr

 

P

I couldn't find information until someone mention what CPC standed for and where they where based. Also Thanks for your help.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

I've been running in my two NCB Barclays, of the two the black no.10 is noticeably smoother and quieter than its sister in green, no.6. The latter makes a curious 'cheeping' noise as it runs, almost like a cricket! It's a bit annoying and lubricant hasn't quietened it. Perhaps more running-in will help.

 

What I am impressed by for both locos is how well they run through Peco insulfrog points.

 

All the best,

 

Keith

Link to post
Share on other sites

I've been running in my two NCB Barclays, of the two the black no.10 is noticeably smoother and quieter than its sister in green, no.6. The latter makes a curious 'cheeping' noise as it runs, almost like a cricket! It's a bit annoying and lubricant hasn't quietened it. Perhaps more running-in will help.

 

 

Keith

Could be a pickup 'chattering' if it's not tight enough against the wheel ............. what I noticed about my No.6 is that the worm is barely meshed with its gear - less than half the depth of the teeth - luckily it's not going to be working very hard for its living !

Link to post
Share on other sites

what I noticed about my No.6 is that the worm is barely meshed with its gear - less than half the depth of the teeth - luckily it's not going to be working very hard for its living !

 

On my first running of Kevin I noticed he had been dispatched from the factory a distinct limp It didn't unduly bother me as his underpinnings are expected to be replaced in the course of time but being of a curious type I just had to investigate further.

 

Giving it a blast on the rollers soon showed that the main cause of the limp was a badly fitted motion bracket  ("Slide bar bracket" to use the correct term as used by Barclay's) on the left hand side.

 

As can be seen it eventually detached causing a lock up. Good thing about the Hattons design is the torque produced in the stall condition caused the motor to move upwards subsequently de-meshing the worm from the gears.

 

Whether this is good or bad I leave you to decide.

 

Easy to effect a repair by re-affixing the slide bar bracket into its two location slots using some hypo glue.

 

With everything all back together everything was a lot quieter but Kevin still has a bit of a hobble.

 

https://youtu.be/yDXJDoU5chc

 

P

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

On my first running of Kevin I noticed he had been dispatched from the factory a distinct limp It didn't unduly bother me as his underpinnings are expected to be replaced in the course of time but being of a curious type I just had to investigate further.

 

Giving it a blast on the rollers soon showed that the main cause of the limp was a badly fitted motion bracket  ("Slide bar bracket" to use the correct term as used by Barclay's) on the left hand side.

 

As can be seen it eventually detached causing a lock up. Good thing about the Hattons design is the torque produced in the stall condition caused the motor to move upwards subsequently de-meshing the worm from the gears.

 

Whether this is good or bad I leave you to decide.

 

Easy to effect a repair by re-affixing the slide bar bracket into its two location slots using some hypo glue.

 

With everything all back together everything was a lot quieter but Kevin still has a bit of a hobble.

 

 

P

 

Looking at the movie, I am sure that I can detect a front, RH eccentric wheel.

 

Look closely, the wheeltread is not in contact with the roller for approximately half of its rotation.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Looking at the movie, I am sure that I can detect a front, RH eccentric wheel.

 

Look closely, the wheeltread is not in contact with the roller for approximately half of its rotation.

 

I looked very closely.

 

The wheel is concentric. All were checked with a dial gauge across the full width of the coning and at the flange apex. It is in contact with the roller throughout 360° of rotation.

 

What you are seeing is an area on the rim of the wheel where the paint has been poorly applied and doesn't reach to the very edge of the face of the tyre. It creates the illusion of the wheel being out of round.

 

P

Edited by Porcy Mane
Link to post
Share on other sites

I looked very closely.

 

The wheel is concentric. All were checked with a dial gauge across the full width of the coning and at the flange apex. It is in contact with the roller throughout 360° of rotation.

 

What you are seeing is an area on the rim of the wheel where the paint has been poorly applied and doesn't reach to the very edge of the face of the tyre. It creates the illusion of the wheel being out of round.

 

P

 

That would explain it - thanks.

 

Regards,

John Isherwood.

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I stripped one down last night to assess conversion to EM. Pulling the wheel back to backs out was straightforward but on dropping the widened wheel set into place the problem we face became clear.

 

The cast chassis hasn’t got enough clearance so the wheelset won’t drop into the gap that the 00 spacing used.

 

Major surgery (or a much thinner wheel) is going to be needed.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I stripped one down last night to assess conversion to EM. Pulling the wheel back to backs out was straightforward but on dropping the widened wheel set into place the problem we face became clear.

 

The cast chassis hasn’t got enough clearance so the wheelset won’t drop into the gap that the 00 spacing used.

 

Major surgery (or a much thinner wheel) is going to be needed.

Finer wheels might help - but I don't know if anyone does the correct pattern - let alone to suit 2mm axles ! ............. from my preliminary investigation, I think you'll have to re-position the springs inside the wheels : I don't know how tricky that'll be !

Link to post
Share on other sites

  • RMweb Gold

Hi all,

 

apologies if this has been answered, but what kadee are people using on these? Does an 18 do the job?

 

Thanks.

I found the #18 to be too short, the #19 is just about spot on. 

 

They just need a sliver of thin card in the bottom of the pockets to take up the slack and the height is good, too.

 

John

Link to post
Share on other sites

I found the #18 to be too short, the #19 is just about spot on.

 

They just need a sliver of thin card in the bottom of the pockets to take up the slack and the height is good, too.

 

John

That’s great. Thank you!

I found the #18 to be too short, the #19 is just about spot on.

 

They just need a sliver of thin card in the bottom of the pockets to take up the slack and the height is good, too.

 

John

That’s great. Thank you!

Link to post
Share on other sites

If someone is changing printed plates to etched ones, I would have thought they might also want them at the right size!  I got the impression that the printing was designed to be/is relatively easy to remove.

 

 

Ordered some 705 plates from Narrow Planet; they are aware the Hattons printed plates are bigger than normal and are going to get hold of one of the said Barclays so they can make the plates to cover the printed ones.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Im converting 705 back to 701 as a Swansea Harbour Trust loco. How did you remove the tampo printing as I was planning my usual micrsol and scotch tape method. I looked at the link but could only see about chattering wheels. My new plates are on order which is giving me an excuse to avoid taking the removal plunge but eventually i’ll Gave to be brave.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The link was only to illustrate a loco devoid of printing. Removed using a blunt scraper following a 10 minute soak with microsol to soften the tampo.

 

 

And before anybody asks, the "Kevin" text was Powsides rub-ons but I have found that unless sealed immediately Powsides rub-on's tend to distort & disintegrate without human intervention over a few days.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...