Converting Peco code 100 from Wire in Tube to Solonoid opperation...

[Ralf]

Hi Folks,

 

Looking for some inspiration in solving a dilemma, my layout (purchased second hand) has Peco code 100 points operated via a Wire in Tube method to the back of the layout. Fine that's all ok BUT I'd like to operate it from the front...

 

I've tried running wire in tube in a U shaped method back to the front of the baseboard and whilst it works the resistance is such the points don't change very solidly and it's all a bit spongy esp the electrical connection for the blades - no there's no wires on all rails here...

 

So I cunningly decide that a solonoid on back oppating the Wire in Tube would solve the problem of not being able to reach and hopefully whack the blades across hard enough.

 

Initial trials (see photos) show this isn't working either as the solenoid doesn't travel / swing / move far enough to persuade the spring in the points to spring across, works fine in one direction but not the other.

 

So what are the remaining options? Thinking it's either a surface mounted solonoid on a bit of wood on the rear of the latout so there's no vertical wire, or drilling from below and installing a solonoid directly below the point which seems risky to put it mildly...

 

Any thoughts / hints / tips much appreciated.

 

Thanks

Ralf

ps there's a mixture of short and Y points should it matter...

[KalKat]

I would mount the point motor in line with the tiebar, then use an operating rod in a pair of guides with a vertical pin through the tiebar.

 

As you have the motor mounted there, all the movement is being absorbed by the whole shebang flexing.

 

 

 

Hope this might help - Emma

[frobisher]

It strikes me as exactly the setup that the following components are meant to solve...

 

PL-9 Mounting Plates for use with PL-10

 

and of course

 

PL-10E Turnout Motor (Extended Pin) / PL-10WE Turnout Motor (Low Amps/Extended Pin)

[newbryford]

Solenoid motors often don't have enough oomph to drive through wire in tube  (unless it's light-dimming power hungry Hammant & Morgan SM3......)

 

Have you considered using slow action motors such as Cobalt ? (Other makes are available)

 

As you already have the tiebar hole, it should be easy to fit the analog motors from the underside (if there's enough room around framework)

 

Cheers,

Mick

Edited September 14, 2017 by newbryford

[Butler Henderson]

Agree with the above comments but there are also all in one options for under board mounting from

Seep http://www.gaugemaster.com/articles/product-spotlight/gaugemaster-SEEP-point-motor.html

and

Hattons http://www.hattons.co.uk/185267/Hattons_HAT_PM_01_Solenoid_point_motor_including_pin_extension_and_2_way_arm_for_use_with_points_a/StockDetail.aspx

 

and then their are the slow motion motors far better than solenoids

 

Cobalt http://www.gaugemaster.com/articles/product-spotlight/DCC_Concepts_Cobalt_Point_Motor.html

and

Tortoise http://www.finescale.org.uk/index.php?route=product/category&path=461

being the most commonly avaialable

Edited September 14, 2017 by Butler Henderson

[Crewlisle]

Solenoid motors often don't have enough oomph to drive through wire in tube  (unless it's light-dimming power hungry Hammant & Morgan SM3......)

 

Have you considered using slow action motors such as Cobalt ? (Other makes are available)

 

As you already have the tiebar hole, it should be easy to fit the analog motors from the underside (if there's enough room around framework)

 

Cheers,

Mick

 

Ralf,

 

With reference to your first photo, all the solenoid motor is doing is to pull the extended pin vertically up & down through the tie bar.  What you have to do is enlarge the hole through the baseboard under the point to allow for the movement of the motor pin to move parallel to the point tie bar to pull the moving part of the point over.  The most important part is to turn the point motor so that the two solenoids on the motor are parallel to the point tie bar to move the point tie bar.

 

If you remove the wire in tube & just have straight 1.5mm steel wire just supported in a couple of places between the motor & point with something like a staple, you should have no trouble.  On my DCC 00 gauge layout 'Crewlisle' I have a couple of points controlled like this + operating three Peco PL-10 accessory switches from each motor.  All my points are operated via a Gaugemaster Capacitor Discharge Unit (CDU).  I have 30 points & all are Peco Code 100 Electrofrogs with Peco solenoid motors & none are fitted with polarity switching.  I have had over 35 years of almost fault free operation of these points.

 

Peter

Edited September 15, 2017 by Crewlisle

[Ralf]

As you already have the tiebar hole, it should be easy to fit the analog motors from the underside (if there's enough room around framework)

 

Thanks for the input folks, a couple of points arise from the above:

 

Firstly - yes there's a hole in the tie bar but NOT in the baseboard (the wire in tube is hidden in the scenery / underlay / ballasting), so I'll need to drill from above to precisely locate where I need to enlarge the hole from below... Bit nerve-wracking but I'm sure it's possible...

 

Secondly, I had considered Tortoise motors but didn't think slow action motors were suited to working with sprung bladed points? 

 

Many thanks

Ralf

[tractor_37260]

Thanks for the input folks, a couple of points arise from the above:

 

Firstly - yes there's a hole in the tie bar but NOT in the baseboard (the wire in tube is hidden in the scenery / underlay / ballasting), so I'll need to drill from above to precisely locate where I need to enlarge the hole from below... Bit nerve-wracking but I'm sure it's possible...

 

Secondly, I had considered Tortoise motors but didn't think slow action motors were suited to working with sprung bladed points? 

 

Many thanks

Ralf

 

I think it's common practice to remove the springs from Peco points when used with slow action motors.....................

[Butler Henderson]

Might be simpler to use servos than solenoids to drive the existing rods.