Satan's Goldfish Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 The first one More rigid than expected so it's bolt count has been reduced to 12 and the ugly strengthening bar at the bottom has been cut out. Coupling height and mounting height are as good as I'll ever get More after the days cutting fest has finished (if all the material actually arrives) 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted March 9, 2018 Author Share Posted March 9, 2018 Massive pile of parts! Enough for 2x BVZ 2nd class, 1x ex-SBB 2nd class, and alteration parts for the prototype ex-SBB composite behind which needs stripping back down and rebuilding with new sides, glazing, ends, door steps, and bogie mounts. Productive day! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 Seats of many colours! (Thought I'd mix it up a bit with different upholstery in different carriages... does anyone know what the real colours should be?!) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted March 10, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 10, 2018 Did you have the bogies laser cut? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted March 10, 2018 Author Share Posted March 10, 2018 Yes. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted March 16, 2018 Author Share Posted March 16, 2018 The black bolts have arrived all the way from China big improvement. Not the highest quality plastic in the world... Blacked the axle boxes too, so they look better. Only another 7 to build... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted March 18, 2018 Author Share Posted March 18, 2018 A fleet appears... Takes quite a while when you're putting together several at once. I really need to do some painting before going any further. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted March 23, 2018 Author Share Posted March 23, 2018 Ends, doors, and sides are added. Doors have received a coat of humbrol 'aluminium' spray paint before having their glazing added. These are just the inner side parts showing where the tables between the seats fit and how the sides are held in the correct place by the chassis and the top frame. From the other side, showing the tables and basic interiors. Glazing added. The glazing for the toilet compartment has been sprayed white on the inside. Glazing lines up with the same mounting points as the inner side parts. Outer sides are screwed over the top to hold everything in place. The screws help hold the sides in line with frame so they narrow at the coach ends. Half the trick was taking into account how much the different materials expand during laser cutting, the diagram length for the plastic sides ended up needing to be shorter than the mdf frame to compensate. The roof frame is then carefully put back on to make sure it still fits. There's many more parts for it to fit around now so it's not as easy as before. That was a BVZ 7 window 2nd, I also got the sides on an ex SBB 9 window 2nd before running out of tiny screws. I need to try moulding the roof skins again now I've had them cut from a more flexible material. Wish me luck! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted April 8, 2018 Author Share Posted April 8, 2018 (edited) I now have an ex SBB 7 window 1st to build as well. This is the last one I want to make* and leaves me with one of each of the 3 types of ex SBB coach, and 2 of the short BVZ 7 window 2nd coaches. I figured I'd better photograph and document how this one goes together just in case anyone else ever asks for a kit of parts. Part 1: MDF parts and plastic seats. Join the 2 parts of the access steps together using 2x 16mm long 3mm self tapping screws through the pre-cut holes. Repeat for the second set. Fit both sets of steps into the underside of the carriage base. Raised tabs locate into holes on the base, then fix in place using 4x 16mm long 3mm self tapping screws. Insert 2x 30mm m6 bolt through the bogie mount holes (with a washer each side) in the carriage base so that the bolt head is on top. Tighten with m6 nuts so the bolts can not move. Fit the bogie mount blocks over the exposed bolt threads, nuts, and washers on the underside. Check the flat part of the semi-circular mount is facing towards the end of the carriage. Fix in place with 4x 16mm long 3mm self tapping screws through the pre-cut holes each side of the bolt heads. Loose fit the 4x interior partitions on top of the carriage base. There is a partition for each side of the entrance vestibule (one of these will have the toilet door etched onto it) and the 2 other walls of the toilet cubicle. The walls for the entrance vestibule locate into notches on the base each side of the doors. The walls for the toilet locate into holes cut into the base. Note; the toilet walls in the composite and 2nd class coaches do not span the whole carriage width to create an extra space. The space next to the toilet in those carriages has more 2nd class seating instead. Add the 8x mounting tabs to the underside of the top frame. There are 4 tabs on each side of the carriage, 2 along the middle and 1 at each end, that locate into notches in the frame next to a screw hole. Add a small amount of wood glue to the part of the tab that will be under the screw hole. The tabs are a very tight fit to the top frame. Drill a 1mm pilot hole into the tab through the top frame screw hole. Hold in place with a 6.5mm long 2mm self tapping screw. Repeat for all 8 tabs. Then loose fit the top frame on top of the interior partition locating tabs to check alignment. Check for correct quantity of plastic seat parts. There are 3 types made up of an upright and either 1 or 2 seats; 1st class single, 1st class double, and second class double. There is a protective film on each side of the plastic that needs removing first. Different colours are available but due to variations in the manufacturing process they are not always the same thickness of material and the locating holes in the uprights may need filing out slightly to accept the seats (the plastic can snap if forced). Add a small amount of plastic/super glue just inside the locating tab on the seat then insert it into the upright. Single seats have 1 tab, double seats have 2. For back-to-back seating, add a second seat to the upright in the spare locating holes. Remove the loose fitted top frame and interior partition from the carriage base. The seats locate into holes cut in the base, these can be very tight and may require filing out to allow the seat to fit. Once all the seats are in, refit the interior partitions and top frame. The roof frame is made up from a centre length, 2x side lengths, and 3 different types of cross ribs (ends, inners, and vent inners) quantities of which depend on the carriage being built. They slot together and are tight enough not to require glue. Not gluing them also allows the ribs move slightly locating them onto the rest of the carriage. Fit the appropriate ribs to the centre of the centre length. Add the 2x side lengths. Fit remaining ribs. Loose test fit onto carriage to ensure the ribs locate correctly into the top frame. Note: the roof is handed and will only go on 1 way round. Do not glue the roof to the carriage top frame, it is designed to be removable for adding figures and lighting. That's it for the moment. Part 2 coming when the weather improves so i can go outside to do some spray painting. Big thank you to Tim Horn again for time on the laser cutter and helping create these. *I could draw up the BVZ 7 window 1st and 7 window composite easily enough if someone really wants them, but I don't. Edited April 8, 2018 by Satan's Goldfish Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted April 8, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 8, 2018 Like the seat tab system, well I like the whole lot, very neat execution of all the bits. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted April 8, 2018 Author Share Posted April 8, 2018 Cheers Paul. Less vomit inducing seat colours are available... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted April 8, 2018 Author Share Posted April 8, 2018 The question whether or not someone wants that kit of parts depends on price, I'd reckon. Any indication possible? Back of napkin calculations: £25 of 1.3mm clear perspex £15 of 3mm acrylic sheets £20 of 1.3mm red/white laminate plastic sheet £25 of various 3mm, 6mm, 9mm, mdf (Tim Horn off cuts (guesstimate cost)) £5 plasticard That makes £90 total in cut parts, plus Tim's time on the laser cutter (up to £100 depending on quantity being cut (4 coaches took an entire day when still under development)) Screws, nuts, bolts, and glue are all easily found off the shelf 'cheap' items so builder can provide them. LGB wheel sets, couplings, and any other detail parts required to be sourced by builder (designed to accept LGB bogies and end corridor connectors, but I've also had my own cut due to lack of supply). Plus paint and graphics, seated figures, lighting etc as required. So, maybe £120 including postage per coach for the kit of parts at a guess, plus price of builder supplied parts would vary. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted April 10, 2018 Author Share Posted April 10, 2018 When a photo op appears, little and large! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted April 14, 2018 Author Share Posted April 14, 2018 Part 2; doors and ends. It stopped being wet long enough to make some progress (The wife draws a line at me using spray paints in the house). Side doors. 4 doors with an etched join down the middle on the red side: Paint the red side silver. In this case, Humbrol Aluminium. Remove clear protective film from the white side: Use the guide lines on the side door frames to line up the position of each door, held in place with a small drop of superglue top and middle (if you forget to take the protective film off the white side they won't stick) Turn door frames over. Remove protective film from both sides of door glazing panels and fix in place on the back of the doors with small drops of superglue: Find notch in top frame to slide doors into, slide them down until the door frame rests on the carriage base (top of the doors should align with the top of the carriage top frame). Fix doors in place with a 6.5mm long 2mm self tapping screw through the bottom hole in the door frame into the carriage base. Fit a pair of doors to each side. The 2x 1.5mm holes between the doors and in the partitions each side of the doors are for fitting 1.5mm metal rod into to create hand bars. Carriage ends and end doors. Mask red side of the end door panels so that the masked lines run roughly in line with the notches and top tab, leaving just the centre portion exposed. Spray exposed area silver (Humbrol Aluminium). Remove masking tape. Remove protective film from the white side of the door panels. Remove protective film from both sides of a piece of door glazing. Superglue glazing into place centrally over the window cut out on the white side. Repeat for both ends. Locate the door panels into the cut outs on the carriage base ends and top frame ends. It should be a tight fit onto the base ends with tabs ending up flush with the door panel. The next part is easier with the roof frame removed. The coach end fits over the door panel. It is held in place with 3x 6.5mm long 2mm self tapping screws. Fit the bottom one first into the carriage base. Of the top 2, fit the one on the left* next; this needs to pass through the carriage end, the door panel, and into the top frame mounting block. A 1mm pilot hole needs drilling into the block before adding the screw. Once the left one is fitted, do the same for the right screw. This sounds easy enough, but you really need about 4 hands to hold everything in line while the holes are drilled and screws are fitted. *Fitting the upper 2 screws will try and add rotational torque to the top frame. By doing the left first it forces the top frame down into it's end mounting position on the right. If you do the right first it makes the top frame lift away on the left and is then much more difficult to align for drilling and screwing. Coach now has side doors and ends. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted April 14, 2018 Author Share Posted April 14, 2018 (edited) Part 3, sides; The sides are made up of three parts; inner, clear, and outer. So let's start with the window tables! This coach requires 12 of them, remove protective film from each side of all the tables. There are 4x inner sides made from red/white laminate, they will all only fit in 1 position. Remove the protective film from the white side. Add a small amount of superglue each side of the window table tabs. Add the tables on the white side, locating the tab into the notch beneath each window. Repeat for all 4x inner sides. Find the clear sides with an etched vertical line and select just 1. This clear side will fit where the toilet cubicle is, the etched line is an aid to painting the cubicle window white. Work out which side will be inner most and peel back the inner protective film from the toilet cubicle portion. Use masking tape to hold the remaining protective film and mask off where the guide line is. Spray the exposed area with white paint (I've used a generic transit van white, other commercial vehicles are available). Remove the protective film (And masking tape from the sprayed portion) from both sides. Add inner sides to one side of the carriage. As mentioned previously, each inner side is unique to 1 position. This is easier with the roof frame removed. These locate onto tabs on the side of the carriage base and top frame and are a tight fit. There should be excess tab exposed through the holes in the sides. Add the clear side parts over the top. These locate onto the same tabs on the side of the carriage base and top frames, the tabs should sit flush with outer side of the clear parts. Find the outer side for the side you're working on. Handle with care, the thin section above the doors is quite flimsy. Remove the protective film from the white side. Each side is held on with 8x 6.5mm long 2mm self tapping screws that must be fitted in a certain order to get correct alignment. Line the upper outer side holes up with holes along the top of the clear and inner sides. Drill 1mm pilot holes into the top frame mounting blocks and fit the screws to the 2x upper holes closest to the carriage doors. Next drill 1mm pilot holes and fit the upper screws at the outer ends. Finally fit the 4 lower screws. These tap straight into the carriage base and do not pass through holes in the clear and inner sides so can not be relied upon for correct alignment until the upper screws were fitted. Repeat for the other side of the coach. Coach now has sides; white inside and red outside. The seats are still accessible with the roof removed for adding figures or other interior details. Re-fit the roof frame. This now has to fit into notches in the sides as well as holes in the top frame so can take a bit more effort to get back onto the coach. However, it lines up a bit easier each time it is taken off and put back on again. Edited April 14, 2018 by Satan's Goldfish Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted April 15, 2018 Author Share Posted April 15, 2018 Not done quite enough work yet to write part 4, but I've added some spare LGB corridor connectors to the BVZ coaches. Ignoring the (still) lack of roof skin, adding just that 1 detail looks great to me. Less like something I've been screwing together and more like a model coach Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted November 5, 2018 Author Share Posted November 5, 2018 A quick up date as it's been a while. As some may know, Mrs SG and I moved house a few months ago so diy, moving furniture, and unpacking has eaten a lot of my modelling time. The carriages survived the moved safely, but then the dog found the 7 window 1st to jump on in excitement... The roof frame has suffered damage on both long side pieces, and the carriage top frame has also been broken, but I have all the parts still and just need to decide whether to get new parts cut or fix the broken ones. All 5 together waiting for attention... or Mrs SG telling me to get them out of her new living room... let's see which happens first! Hoping I find the box of spare parts soon so I can start building bogies. Experiments with plasticard for the roof still haven't worked so may end up being normal card suitably protected. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold PaulRhB Posted November 5, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted November 5, 2018 (edited) Have you explored making a roof master and getting it vac formed somewhere? Even if you split it in two to fit a smaller machine there’s only one join to smooth out. If you can find somewhere local ask what thicknesses of plastic they can do and shape a block of wood, or fill one of your frames in and support with a plaster block, less that dimension thickness. I’d settled on that when I was thinking of cheap full length EW’s for G. Never got past the basic etch artwork though as I decided on the HSB layout in G Edited November 5, 2018 by PaulRhB Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Satan's Goldfish Posted November 5, 2018 Author Share Posted November 5, 2018 There's an idea... will ponder that one, bound to be a vacuum former around here somewhere plus the slight roof ribs could be added to the mould. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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