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A new from old H0 layout in Busch HOf

busch narrow gauge feldbahn




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#51 bertiedog

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Posted 08 October 2017 - 21:21

The Vollmer winery kit is almost done, only fine details to add after painting that would get in the way. But a piece of railing is missing, presumed lost,  and a replacement is needed made in plasticard. Also there is a whole load of mouldings for a beer garden style area, with a wine press, that are not in the Vollmer instructions. They are obviously meant for the kit, but no way to be sure of exact arrangement of parts.

 

The warehouse section of the model makes a perfect bay for the track along the back of the model, matching platform height for H0f and H0e track.

 

The kit is typical of German kits, lots of details in pre coloured plastic mouldings, and needs painting and weathering down to a realistic finish.

 

Lots to add to the basic buildings, a garden area with benches and seats, which can have moulded stone walls fitted to define the area on the sloped position it is going in. Also a few customers to sit at the benches sampling the wines.

 

Stephen



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#52 bertiedog

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Posted 10 October 2017 - 21:08

The Pola kit of a blacksmiths premises, a continental wooden workshop with brick fireplace etc, has arrived, and awaiting assembly after the winery. Comes with some accessories but no horse!....or Blacksmith, but easy to source.

 

After testing some basic voltage regulator circuits for controllers, I have gone down the route of using the Gaugemaster Model W, but feed by 6 volts AC from a mains transformer. The W is a walkabout leaded model, making operation easy along the length of the model. The range of control is zero to about 5 volts, this covers the 3 volts required, and it was the low speed control that was needed most. The Locos would never be run at over 3 volts or so. If used on another layout the unmodified Model W can be fed by 16 VAC for conventional 12 volts operations.

 

Also to speed things along a new bridge, a two arch brick and stone one from Auhagen, that fits the back return part of the track, Really intended as a road bridge, it is perfect for the H0f track, and unlike some German makers, is reasonably priced.

Also a pack of two tunnel portals, meant for H0,  but they can be cut down to the H0f proportions, and also have a parapet structure that closely resembles the Kibri Castle. The pack of two are cheaper than some Wills kits!

 

Our Local model shop in Rochester now has a wide range of the Busch scenic items, but not as yet the Feldbahn locos. The scenic items are good but a bit pricey, but what a wide range!

 

One item remains to be mail ordered and that is more track, the Peco Z track is not widely stocked in retail outlets.

 

Photos of the development of the old layout coming soon.

 

The next stages are the scenery and scratchbuilt items mainly in the vineyard area, and in the village. it also needs a background painted or sourced, with mountain scenery, but this can be added later on. maybe using a white art card one for the time being, that could later be painted on.

 

Stephen.



#53 bertiedog

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Posted 12 October 2017 - 14:35

The Auhagen bridge kit for the river crossing, drops into the gap with little work, except the height to adjust, nice mouldings even under the arches, and will weather and paint up well. it comes as a road bridge really, but suited to the Feldbahn railway uses.

 

Auhagen bridge.JPG

 

As well as the main layout I am making a very small layout with a loop line to test out locos and modified rolling stock made from H0e 9mm items, which in general convert well. Bogied items are a bit difficult to get around the sub 9mm curves, the L&B coaches will not convert, but the Peco 4wheelers will, as well as most Eggarbahn items. The layout will have no scenery, just grass!!

 

Stephen


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#54 bertiedog

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 13:06

The new Bridge is all assembled, with two tracks across it on the road bed moulded on the top plate by Auhagen. The sleepers of the Peco Z gauge track re-space very easily, and to get decent clearances and rack centres, the sleepers against the paved sides are trimmed away, as they would be covered anyway.

 

The metal rubber tape is put on first, it's self adhesive, with the top surface roughened a bit to take glue.I used Titebond glue for this rather than impact adhesive, as impact is very messy, and the real track hold down is the ballast. I could have used double sided tape instead, but it adds to the cost.

 

A strip of stone textured plastic was laid between the tracks, and to strips of paving brick paper that came with the kit where laid on the outside of the tracks up to the railings.

 

Ballast was added to the tracks dry, and then diluted PVA plus detergent, was brushed into place, the dry ballast sucking it up.

The track was cleaned of all surplus ballast or glue, and some static grass added to the sides and centre, plus longer grass under the railings.

 

No painting has been done yet, it has to match the general colours of the Kibri Castle. Bases for a date plate, and warning signs have been fitted to the plastic before any painting. Also a services pipeline added to the edge, One or two more clumps of grass to add.

 

The space for the bridge has been cut into the styrene scenery on the layout, and it simple drops into place on pads of fresh wall filler

Pictures coming



#55 bertiedog

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 17:13

Decided to paint the bridge right away, drying off before shots, added a few details, including chains across the river to stop boats getting near the waterfalls. I will make a couple of warning boards to hang on the chain as well.

 

Found a material that improves the look of the loo brush pine trees, soak them with basing glue and scatter Jarvis green turf in to the basic tree. The texture is just right, although the Peco basing glue is showing the same trouble as before, in that it dries rather glossy. This barely shows on the trees, and can be over sprayed  anyway with matt vanish if it does show to much.

 

I tried adding talc to the glue and it works, making it dry matt, but you have to add colour to stop any white from the talc showing.

 

I will get a bottle of Mod Podge Matt medium and try that. The Peco basing glue works well with static grass, except at the very edge where it dries fast and leaves a thin glossy line.

 

Most ordinary PVA dries less glossy.

 

The improved pines are in a stand along the back of the layout to provide the break from the layout to the background scenic painting. They are only needed around the castle and the village.

 

I have found a further building, a half timbered shop, that can be used somewhat modified in the village area. No idea of the make, could be Faller.


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#56 bertiedog

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Posted 15 October 2017 - 22:27

The painted bridge with two tracks, overgrown grass, signs, chains and date fitted, needs a few finer stones picked out after its dry.

 

P1019344.JPG P1019339.JPG


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#57 bertiedog

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Posted 17 October 2017 - 10:06

Couple of things have come up, the track has to be very clean, and the Peco track needs a good polish with very fine abrasive before use to ensure good running.

 

Also all scenic material of any kind must be 3mm clear of the track or the flycranks or cylinders on the steam locos foul things very easily indeed.

 

I even now wonder if it is a good plan to paint the track,  but I am making a brass scraper to remove any paint away from the top section of the flat bottom rail. This can also act as a clearance tester for the scenery. All tunnel track will be left clean and bare, no ballast or paint, etc.

 

I may decide to leave the track without the rust paint, as the points will be easier to do without. Further tests are needed.



#58 bertiedog

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Posted 18 October 2017 - 09:08

Scaling back the design a bit, but will complete the lot, concentrating on the castle and vineyard end, with a loop under the castle to get things running. The track is proving expensive and difficult to buy, but I have enough for the project if reduced a bit at present.

I am considering making the points direct on steel plates to get max pickup over them as well.

Recent illness has slowed things as well.

Stephen


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#59 bertiedog

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Posted 19 October 2017 - 10:48

A re- think is evolving now, the Kibri Castle is such a nice model from all sided ii is a pity to have half out of sight on a wall mounted layout, also I was falling for the bad idea of designing the track, then fitting the buildings to the design.

 

I have an old card table about 42inx 42, which has long lost it's felt top, and used as a work table in the past, which could take the Castle and the other buildings and bridges etc.,

 

The Castle would be centre stage, surrounded by the Vineyard serviced by the Feldbahn. 42x42 gives a lot of area in H0f.

 

I will draw up a new plan today.


Edited by bertiedog, 19 October 2017 - 12:41 .


#60 bertiedog

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Posted 19 October 2017 - 12:55

mk2a.jpg

Rough sketch only approx to scale till buildings are tested in place.

 

Well I can get the lot in the space, plus two loops, mostly running above board height, connected by inclines that do not bother the Busch locos. Same buildings, but new positions, winery, hotel and shop, with a small loco works in the top corner.

No background to do, plenty of trees to do, mainly pines, but a few others as well. The scenery now has to work at 100% all round.

The table makes it easy to work at, and it could be stored on hooks on the wall, as the legs fold way on card tables.

I feel the redesign is much better than the wall version, and contains more potential.

Stephen.



#61 DIW

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Posted 19 October 2017 - 21:07

Ooh, it's evolving into a coffee table railway!

 

Presumably there will be a shelf of some sort for the controller - could have space on that for the beverage of choice......



#62 bertiedog

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Posted Yesterday, 09:28

The new design is really the old one just folded in half, and that would be a very big and extremely high coffee table as the castle and base is 16 inches thick, on a normal table height card table.........I am not cutting off the legs to lower it, as you could not then sit up to it to work on the models..........

 

The fact is the older design needed me to stand to work on or operate the railway, and thats not easy with arthritis, the use of the table allows sitting to work on any side as needed, allowing more time for the detailing work needed on the kits. The legs can go under the table comfortably, and a normal dining chair used to sit on.

 

The table has hard wood edges and an inserted ply top, quite sturdy, and can take the power unit under the boards, with a plug in walk around controller. Section switches can be recessed into the wood sides on plywood backing, glued and screwed to the back, after routing out the holes for the panels.

 

I don't want to add to the edge much, it makes storage more difficult. I may make on side have a hinged panel about 9 inches wide, to act as a temporary work table surface for the models, or servicing the stock later on.

 

The river can be routed out or jig sawed, and a new panel screwed and glued back as the river surface, in MDF or plywood, to leave it as strong as now. The rest of the construction remains the same for the scenery, with the proviso that it can be viewed from 360o.

 

Got two packs in from Hong Kong, of loo brush pines that do not look like Xmas trees, but have curious layers, I think extra scatter and static grasses may make them presentable, several bigger one will have to be scratch built.

 

The vines will be made from hollow fibre stuffing from a discarded duvet, it is white, so will need painting and a textured surface added to them from scatter materials, several collection stations will be need on the line through the vineyards, where the grapes are placed in tipper wagons to go to the winery for pressing.

 

The Vollmer winery is far too small for production, so it may be possible to add a small factory unit perhaps built over the nearby lines.

 

The Order of the Blue Nuns remains Schossed in the Castle........Which it seems is based on an Austrian castle.

 

Full box of track arrived from Gaugemaster, with correct fishplates for Z gauge. Should cover most of the track in one go, with PC points from Peco rail section. It will be fitted with the sleepers halved in number.

 

I am abandoning any attempt to grass right up to the track, only ballast, as tests show the Steam locos have clearance problems. It is all right to paint the track though, as long as your careful to clean it afterwards. The closest grass has to be 4mm from the track for safety, and none on the track middle.

 

I will get a diesel or two to run, plus a home made 040, with slightly larger wheels for better clearances.

 

I may add a spur connection to take another board in future, to take advantage of the brickworks wagons etc.

 

Any cupholder would have to be substantial as it would have to take a large German beer stein... and no, I do not drink Blue Nun......there are far better British wines!


Edited by bertiedog, Yesterday, 09:33 .









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