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Cereal packet glue ?


BorderShed
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Hi all,

beginner at printing a diy engine shed on paper and gluing it to cereal packet card.

Failure ! ! !

I used a glue stick (similar to Pritt stick ) and, perhaps not surprisingly, it does not stick well to the glossy surface, though a re-application on a previously glued surface seems slightly better. Even on the less glossy but still shiny rear surface it is not good.

 

So, what should I try next ? PVA perhaps?  But with my poor dexterity that could become messy ! ( that is why the glue stick looked attractive). Or perhaps go to an arts/crafts shop and get some proper card that will take a stick :)

 

I have not found the relevent gluing bit in the pinned topic yet.

Thanks.

Edited by BorderShed
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Hi all,

beginner at printing a diy engine shed on paper and gluing it to cereal packet card.

Failure ! ! !

I used a glue stick (similar to Pritt stick ) and, perhaps not surprisingly, it does not stick well to the glossy surface, though a re-application on a previously glued surface seems slightly better. Even on the less glossy but still shiny rear surface it is not good.

 

So, what should I try next ? PVA perhaps?  But with my poor dexterity that could become messy ! ( that is why the glue stick looked attractive). Or perhaps go to an arts/crafts shop and get some proper card that will take a stick :)

 

I have not found the relevent gluing bit in the pinned topic yet.

Thanks.

I always have some fine to medium wet and dry paper handy, and it only takes a few seconds to rub and key the shiney card, after which it sticks well with Pritt or similar glue sticks.

John

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 fine to medium wet and dry paper handy,

 

Good idea ! Thanks,  I have fine w&d.

 

Meanwhile, between me posting and your reply I had found on another forum a post which said to use a Jumbo Pritt on a Cornflakes packet. So I had decided that I needed to either change my breakfast cereal or my glue stick  ! lol!

So,,  I have just returned from a trip into town bearing a genuine Jumbo Pritt.

Keep your fingers crossed I will use both methods to make sure :)

Edited by BorderShed
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I'm using genuine Pritt, as I assumed that it's likely to be better than unbranded ones. It seems to work for me, so I haven't risked trying other makes. I stick paper to the unprinted side of the packet, and use tacky glue or superglue for anything that needs to be stuck to the shiny inside of the model.

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If you are gluing to card you also need to glue plain paper onto the inside to minimize warping.

I've done that where the card isn't reinforced enough, using Pritt on the shiny side. I'd forgotten that when I made my previous post! I only use Bonio packets, rather than cereal packets, for mock-ups, so it's not that important usually! I use greyboard and Pritt for the proper buildings.

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I find that gluing the texture paper to the matt side of Paketo Cornoflako works well, because, as the stick glue dries, the tension in the shiny side resists the pull of the drying adhesive.

 

If you have ever wallpapered (another dying art?) you'll know that you must leave the pasted paper to soak long enough to let it become both flexible and stretchable. The same applies to texture papers.

 

Incidentally, I have always had good results when I choose to cut down the Scalescenes printouts to smaller, more manageable pieces rather than pasting a whole A4 sheet. Be aware though that John Wiffen cleverly arranges some components so that one continuous cut will cut the borders of more than one element, so don't miss out on that feature of his print outs.

 

As always a wall paper roller will press paper to card far more evenly than the average 12inch/1foot paw!

 

Good luck,

 

Doug

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Ditto Rocket card glue – it's like super glue for card and paper bonds very quickly. Personally I wouldn't use cereal packet card but instead I'd get a sheet of white mounting board from your nearest artshop and a box of Swann-Morton scalpel blades.

 

I've had some success using thin corrugated card that come from the cartons cat food is sold it. It's turned out to be dimensionally stable. I make corner joints by very carefully cutting away a mm or so of the inner brown side right where I want to make the corner join. I leave the glossy out layer intact. With Rocket glue you can get perfectly sharp precise corners. However, this is for fairly rustic stone buildings. If modelling brick build buildings I think I'd use mounting board.

Edited by Anglian
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Ditto Rocket card glue – it's like super glue for card and paper bonds very quickly. Personally I wouldn't use cereal packet card but instead I'd get a sheet of white mounting board from your nearest artshop and a box of Swann-Morton scalpel blades.

As I have grown older I found joint pain in my knuckles has made the combination of a S&M scalpel handle and mounting board an unwelcome proposition so switched to larger Stanley snap-off knives for card, reserving scalpels for trimming flash from plastic models etc..

 

In an effort to lessen the physical effort of cutting I deliberately set out to build a Scalescenes school building using 1.30mm white art card and 0.6mm white card (instead of the recommended 2mm and 1mm) and a small snap-off knife with considerable success, the thin card cutting through in almost one pass. John Wiffen now specifically recommends this type of knife.

 

I made due allowances when 'stacking' components or used 3mm balsa wood to bulk out chimneys and found that lengths of components needed little or no adjustment.

 

When our house move is complete and my 'pooter is running again I'll post some piccies if anyone is interested. The thin card is virtually the same thickness as Packet0-Cornoflako.

 

I might have posted it on RMWEB as 'A Victorian School'.

 

Doug

Edited by Chubber
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Thanks for all the helpful hints everyone.

I should be able to get back to it later today or tomorrow.

Proper art/craft card will come later when I have the prototypes and methods sorted, with recycled card I can make plenty of mistakes and only waste a bit of printing ink !

 

So far I've been using Oats packets and Cupasoups. The inside of the soup packets has been ok. But varyiung degrees of failure with the rest.

No trouble so far that I've noticed with warping, but if the glue that I was using hasnt the wherewithall to properly hold the paper it probably doesnt have the 'pull' to to do a respectable warp !! :) Having been forewarned, thanks, I'll watch out.

 

I'm not sure about this   "Packet0-Cornoflako"   business, is that a generic description of 'flake packets, are they all created equal ? Accademic as the Station Manager doesnt eat them, and she might take exception to having her morning fare changed ! ( I'm strictly bacon&eggs :) )

Edit later : I've just remembered that a long time ago she used to make chocolate coated 'flake cupcake things, , , hmmm, I think a hint in that direction might pay double dividends lol!

Edited by BorderShed
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Aah!

 

'Packeto-Cornoflako' at its best is the card from large (1kg) Kelloggs cornflake boxes, the interior surface of which is a good white finish, which...

 

a. Goes through most ink jet printers without demur

b. And may be cut to an A4 size,

C. Does away with one 'print and glue to thin card' process.

 

As a one-time long term expat, annual duty visits to Pater et familiar included restocking with a dozen or so of the same. The best-buy dates extend to over 12 months!

 

Being primarily an 'export' or 'catering' size, the card must confirm to more stringent packaging regulations than those set down for domestic use. Stocked by larger supermarkets.

 

Another packaging worth seeking out is the card boxes of 'Barilla' pasta, with a variagated inner surface of marbled brown which lends itself to stone lintels etc..but many of the foreign pastas have the same boxes. One box will keep you in window-cills, lintels and structural stone components for life.

 

HTH

 

Doug

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Aah!

 

'Packeto-Cornoflako' at its best is the card from large (1kg) Kelloggs cornflake boxes, the interior surface of which is a good white finish, which...

 

a. Goes through most ink jet printers without demur

b. And may be cut to an A4 size,

C. Does away with one 'print and glue to thin card' process.

 

As a one-time long term expat, Stocked by larger supermarkets.

 

Another packaging worth seeking out is the card boxes of 'Barilla' pasta,

Aah! Clearly I have much to learn !

Thanks for that, a survey of local SM is indicated

[and I have just looked up " 'flake cupcakes" and am reliably informed by the Beeb that " Children: Weigh out the ingredients. Older children can do this by themselves with supervision and little ones can help to pour or spoon ingredients " , , , I am sure I fit into at least one of those classifications and 1kg sounds good  :) ]

 

Didnt occure to me that I might be able to print direct ! Nice one !! The chief Secretary to the Procurement Excutive has recently mentioned the possibility of a new printer, so I dont risk too much if I were to stuff some oats packaging into the current one, which can also do A5 it leads me to believe.

Do you perchance have a thickness in thou' ? my oats seem to be approx 20thou',  not sure what that will be in g per thingy and at what thickness my printer will balk.

 

Ah, ex-pating, not cornflakes in my case but much was the carrying about of bottles of HP Sauce in hand luggage, once upon a time, probably cause Ryan(disp)air a nervous moment if not an internationla incident these days ? :(

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My vernier and modelling stuff are in one (or maybe two)out of 54 cardboard boxes. Normal service will be resumed as soon as possible. ....

 

(Bovril was also an ex-pat contraband item )

 

Doug

Edited by Chubber
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 Normal service will be resumed as soon as possible. ....

Thanks no worries, casting caution to the wind I have stuffed a packet card, trimmed to approx A5, into my long suffering Epson and have printed (after a little protest & stuttering!) the end walls of my embryo engine shed, Yea! Now for the sides and roof ,. , , ,Nice one Chubber, thanks lots.

Edited by BorderShed
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As I have grown older I found joint pain in my knuckles has made the combination of a S&M scalpel handle and mounting board an unwelcome proposition so switched to larger Stanley snap-off knives for card, reserving scalpels for trimming flash from plastic models etc..

 

In an effort to lessen the physical effort of cutting I deliberately set out to build a Scalescenes school building using 1.30mm white art card and 0.6mm white card (instead of the recommended 2mm and 1mm) and a small snap-off knife with considerable success, the thin card cutting through in almost one pass. John Wiffen now specifically recommends this type of knife.

 

I made due allowances when 'stacking' components or used 3mm balsa wood to bulk out chimneys and found that lengths of components needed little or no adjustment.

 

When our house move is complete and my 'pooter is running again I'll post some piccies if anyone is interested. The thin card is virtually the same thickness as Packet0-Cornoflako.

 

I might have posted it on RMWEB as 'A Victorian School'.

 

Doug

Hi Doug, I would be interested to see the results of this. Having made several Scalescenes buildings I can testify that the cutting out of large quantities of 2mm card (especially window openings) is laborious, not to say, tiring. I did a search for 'A Victorian school', but didn't find anything.

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