Converting an 'early' Clan Line for DCC

[AyJay]

Hello all,

I have just done a search on this forum for an answer to my problem and found something which brushes against the issue, but does not answer it; so here goes.....

On the table before me is the earlier (non DCC) version of the Hornby Clan Line; I took the top off to see if there is room for a DCC chip and 'stay alive' capacitor.

Unfortunately, there is a whopping great lump of iron in the ideal space, located just behind the smokebox inside the top and secured in place by a small screw accessible under the top.

 

I want to cut a couple of cm's off the back end of this weight, but with the screw removed, the weight just rattles about and stubbornly refuses to come out of it's hole.  Cannot get a grip on it with plyers and wriggling it with a jewellers screwdriver does no good either. 

I'm rapidly thinking that my only option is to buy a Dremel and grind it in-situ, but that sounds a bit extreme.

Any ideas, anyone?   Please!!!

 

Alan

[RFS]

Just wondering why you are considering stay-alive for this loco? It has pickups on both engine and tender which should eliminate pick-up issues.  Without the need for a stay-alive you should have no problem fitting a decoder. 

[AyJay]

Just wondering why you are considering stay-alive for this loco? It has pickups on both engine and tender which should eliminate pick-up issues.  Without the need for a stay-alive you should have no problem fitting a decoder. 

Yes, reasonable comment.  However, the pack of decoders that i purchased comes with the 'stay alive' components, so I want to use them.   Besides, the space for the chip is small, I'm having to cram it alongside the weight anyway, so I'd just like to make a bit more space to play with.

[Mallard60022]

Is this an 'early' (in being pre 2017) Modified Clan Line or an 'early' (in being unmodified) model from this year? That makes a difference to the answer I would hope to give.

Phil

[AyJay]

Is this an 'early' (in being pre 2017) Modified Clan Line or an 'early' (in being unmodified) model from this year? That makes a difference to the answer I would hope to give.

Phil

 

This is a pre-2004 version (think I bought it new in 2003), five pole motor, sprung buffers, pick-ups on the tender etc. The smoothest, best controlled slow speed runner I have ever seen.  Unfortunately, this lump of metal fills the space from just behind the chimney, leaving only a tiny space in front of the motor. With the screw removed, I can see nothing holding this metal in place and it flaps about as if it's loose, but, it just won't slide out!!!  I have tried prise-ing it with a screwdriver,  holding it at every angle and shaking it --- just won't budge.  There are no other fixings that I can see.

[Mallard60022]

This is a pre-2004 version (think I bought it new in 2003), five pole motor, sprung buffers, pick-ups on the tender etc. The smoothest, best controlled slow speed runner I have ever seen.  Unfortunately, this lump of metal fills the space from just behind the chimney, leaving only a tiny space in front of the motor. With the screw removed, I can see nothing holding this metal in place and it flaps about as if it's loose, but, it just won't slide out!!!  I have tried prise-ing it with a screwdriver,  holding it at every angle and shaking it --- just won't budge.  There are no other fixings that I can see.

Ah, sorry I can't help you there. Perhaps go for a bit more complex fitting in the tender? Good luck.

Phil

[34theletterbetweenB&D]

It should be possible to mount the decoder vertically alongside the motor - and maybe even the capacitor down at ash pan level - if you are willing to cut some internal clearance from the plastic body work to allow the body on and off the decoder fittied mechanism.

 

But give thought to the tender location for a decoder suggestion made by Phil above. Just for a start it is best to eliminate the pre-DCC design power connection by easily bent wipers: Hornby have made the switch to fully wired plug in connections because these do not produce the momentary short circuits to which DCC is intolerant. (While tinkering in this area there's the option of a DIY shorter drawbar too if the layout minimum radius permits. Always improves appearance of the ensemble when the spacing of  loco to tender is brought as close as possible to scale distance.)