Railmatch Paint Spray Cans

[orford]

Anyone use Railmatch spray cans?  Anyone know how to stop the nozzles clogging up after every session?  I must have chucked away dozens of 90%-full cans over the years because no matter how long I invert/blow the air out after first use they always seem to be gummed up completely solid whenever I go back to use them a second time.

 

I know that spare nozzles are available for them - but that's hardly the point. Anyone got a good method for keeping these things clear so that they can be re-used at least once or twice?

 

I never seem to have this problem with (for example) Halfords rattle cans - or Humbrol ones for that matter...but Railmatch cans seem to clog up every time.  I am just about to chuck another can with at least 75% of the paint still in it...and they're by no means cheap.

 

Or am I just doing it wrong?

 

Thanks for any help on this.

 

 

 

[crompton 33]

I used them a long time ago.  when they got clogged up  i took the nozzle off then used a small pin to unblock it. These day's i use a airbrush.

[Mick Bonwick]

Try soaking the nozzle in cellulose thinners, but take care - nasty stuff.

[John M Upton]

Also when finished spraying, turn upside down and continue to depress nozzle until spray runs clear then store upside down, cap downwards.  Works for me with Humbrol and Phoenix cans, I refuse to touch Railmatch anymore after no end of problems with them, mostly nozzles breaking off etc.

[young37215]

I have had similar problems which have persisted despite following the best practices that others have outlined on here. My solution has been to buy additional nozzles which Howes sell for 50p. It is not ideal but when there is a nearly full can of paint at stake, it is the most economic solution.

[Daddyman]

I remember having the problem when I used these 15 years ago. Howes' instructions say the same as post 4, but that always seemed wasteful to me. I think I possibly solved the problem by using other manufacturers' nozzles - Halfords, etc.?  

[37403]

_{Agree with the pin trick. Find an extremely small pin head and use that the clean the hole.}

_{As the guys have said above, once you've sprayed, leave the can upside down and spray until the air runs clear. That clears any paint residue from the line}

[Graham456]

Rather then poke with a pin my technique is pull the nozzel from the head then to use a small drill bit from one of packs of numbered drills to clean out the nozzel then squeeze it back into the head which you then refit to the can,

The explanation I was given years ago was that railmatch cans had finer nozzel than normal rattle cans which is why they bock up easier....not that helps much with the frustration

Edited October 3, 2017 by Graham456

[Phill Dyson (onslaught832)]

After use stick a thin pin down the nozzle & leave it there until you next use the can.

[Trainshed Terry]

It also helps if you warm the paint before spraying, as it makes the paint mixes together better and is less likely to clog. But turning the the can upside down and hold the nozzle down until all the surplus paint is clear.

 

Terry.

[dasatcopthorne]

They block up while in use.

 

I won't touch them now.

 

It must be so easy for the manufacturer to change the troubled part.

 

They are CRAP.

 

Dave

[orford]

I used them a long time ago.  when they got clogged up  i took the nozzle off then used a small pin to unblock it. These day's i use a airbrush.

 

Good grief ............. I wouldn't DREAM of using these to actually spray models. I too always use a good quality airbrush.  I do however use them for giving newly laid trackwork an overall base colour prior to detail painting and for scenic work. And that is where I get problems.  Once another few yards of track are down I reach again for the can and there it is, all blocked up solid.

[Gt.Shefford]

I have successfully unblocked spray can nozzles (humbrol mainly) by spraying liquid reamer (xylene based airbrush cleaner) through it.

 

Jonathan

[Andrew F]

The air/paint mix has to travel through 90 degrees. Why would anyone design a nozzle with a right angle in it as opposed to a curve?

[DCB]

Sounds like the nozzle is finer than the standard Poundland/ Halfords rattle can and if it comes off it makes sense to make absolutely sure its clear and soak in what ever your favoured solvent is, mine is incredibly expensive brass instrument valve oil, and store it separately to the can.

 

I know people recommend storing the can upside down, but with rattle cans I do the hold it upside down to clear the tube trick but then store them upright. That way any residue settles back into the can not in the nozzle.

 

I sprayed several locos with railmatch GWR Green 30 years ago and they are still pretty good.  Thos were the days Mainline Manors were unlined nothing like GWR Green and my lined BR green one was quite unusual.  The finish was the best I have ever achieved as they spray less paint per pass than most rattle cans so build up/ runs etc are minimised.   Then again I also use Poundland satin black with pretty good results.   I warm the can in hot water first and spray while warming the surface with a hair dryer.   Also works for bodge repairs to car paint outside in winter

 

To heat the cans I use 2 methods   Method 1, no longer recommended, Stick can in kettle, turn kettle on.   You can still see the hole in the kitchen ceiling where the can went through when it exploded.

 

Method 2 warm the water first then drop rattle can in.

Edited October 4, 2017 by DavidCBroad

[bescotbeast]

Anyone use Railmatch spray cans?  Anyone know how to stop the nozzles clogging up after every session?  I must have chucked away dozens of 90%-full cans over the years because no matter how long I invert/blow the air out after first use they always seem to be gummed up completely solid whenever I go back to use them a second time.

 

I know that spare nozzles are available for them - but that's hardly the point. Anyone got a good method for keeping these things clear so that they can be re-used at least once or twice?

 

I never seem to have this problem with (for example) Halfords rattle cans - or Humbrol ones for that matter...but Railmatch cans seem to clog up every time.  I am just about to chuck another can with at least 75% of the paint still in it...and they're by no means cheap.

 

Or am I just doing it wrong?

 

Thanks for any help on this.

 

DSCF8974.JPG

I know what you are going through, I've suffered the same problems over the years and I can't believe that it hasn't been fixed. Where possible I use paints from Halfords rather than using Railmatch as it's cheaper and more reliable. In future I'll try using some of the above tips to ensure I use a full can rather than just half a can.

[bescotbeast]

Just so we're clear, I'm laughing at the "hole in the kitchen ceiling comment" , I could just imagine the reaction I'd get if this happened to me

[Graham456]

The air/paint mix has to travel through 90 degrees. Why would anyone design a nozzle with a right angle in it as opposed to a curve?

Well maybe the thinking is as found in inlet manifold design for cars slight roughness causes swelling of the air paint mix assisting in mixing the fuel mix or paint propelent mix in this case ! ? , of course it just might be cheepness I know which one I would vote for.............. ...............option 2

 

David..

Never mind the hole in the ceiling, that can be cured by not looking up! There's all ways the floor boards above the plaster, More important is the disruption in the tea making facility's

How was the kettle ?

 

P S can anyone think of a paint can with a curve in the head on any type of can, even in my air brush the paint makes a right turn where the paint meets the air inside the handle.....well can you ?

Edited October 4, 2017 by Graham456

[Bristol_Rich]

The other issue I found with Railmatch cans is they loose pressure overtime irrespective of use.

 

I’ve never experienced with any other rattle can of paint....

[DCB]

Well maybe the thinking is as found in inlet manifold design for cars slight roughness causes swelling of the air paint mix assisting in mixing the fuel mix or paint propelent mix in this case ! ? , of course it just might be cheepness I know which one I would vote for.............. ...............option 2

 

David..

Never mind the hole in the ceiling, that can be cured by not looking up! There's all ways the floor boards above the plaster, More important is the disruption in the tea making facility's

How was the kettle ?

 

P S can anyone think of a paint can with a curve in the head on any type of can, even in my air brush the paint makes a right turn where the paint meets the air inside the handle.....well can you ?

 

You can still see the mark on the ceiling where I filled the hole if you look hard enough.

 

The right angle bends in car manifolds were bad news and one of the reasons twin carbs produced better power and economy on heritage siamese port 4 cyl engines and triples on 6s

.I spent many happy hours synchronising the triples on Jensen 451s and often wondered why people stick with twin carbs on Healey 3000s /  TR Triumphs etc when they need triples.

The petrol tended to centrifuge out onto the outside wall of the manifold on sharp bends causing poor mixing of the incoming charge.  Single carb 6s and 8s were essentially hopeless with the inner cylinders running rich and the outers lean.  Fuel injection transformed monstrosities like Ford V6s and Rover V8s.

[chriswright03]

Many many moons ago there was somewhere a list of car alternatives for spray paint.  Don't have a clue where it would be but if there is an alternative to these troublesome cans surely a list could be useful once more.

 

EDIT

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/41328-colour-matches-for-halfords-rattle-cans/&do=findComment&comment=443694

[bike2steam]

Never that keen on Rail Match aerosols, always seemed too thick, but good for hiding scratches tho', no matter - been using  airbrush/acrylics only for the last 10 years.

[Vanders]

Many many moons ago there was somewhere a list of car alternatives for spray paint.  Don't have a clue where it would be but if there is an alternative to these troublesome cans surely a list could be useful once more.

 

EDIT

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/41328-colour-matches-for-halfords-rattle-cans/&do=findComment&comment=443694

But does anyone know of a suitable Halfords replacement for things like "Track Dirt"?

[gwrrob]

They block up while in use.

 

I won't touch them now.

 

It must be so easy for the manufacturer to change the troubled part.

 

They are CRAP.

 

Dave

 

If people stopped buying the product they'd soon do something about it. Vote with your wallet.

[Graham456]

You can still see the mark on the ceiling where I filled the hole if you look hard enough.

 

The right angle bends in car manifolds were bad news s.

David in my post I said roughness to the surface, as in David Vizzard tuneing A series engines deliberately not saying tight bends, for reason,you can make turn on a inlet tract,but not a restrictive turn and get good flow. After all I can't think of a engine where the mixture doesn't make a tight turn at the valve to enter the combustion chamber, whilst the internals of a nozzel might not be the greatest air flow design, it works in all other rattle cans and like I said in air brushes (suction, never had a top cup airbrush) the paint is drawn up from a cup where the paint makes a very tight turn where the air blows across the top of the pipe,and that seams to work'...

I admit my comment was a bit of a sturr up comment though.....sorry

 

P S you still haven't said how the kettle is/was though!

Edited October 4, 2017 by Graham456