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I'm back,

 

Phew ! This is keeping me fit !!!

 

Right then,

 

The pack as it comes...

 

post-20303-0-67055700-1507563172_thumb.jpg

 

Front of sleeper etchings...

 

post-20303-0-22639800-1507563108_thumb.jpg

 

And the rear...

 

post-20303-0-27264600-1507563194_thumb.jpg

 

They are simply cut from the fret and placed over the point drawing which you can either download from their site or use Tempolot etc.

 

Hope this answers your question ?

 

G

 

 

 

 

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I'm back,

 

Phew ! This is keeping me fit !!!

 

Right then,

 

The pack as it comes...

 

attachicon.gifIMG_3539.JPG

 

Front of sleeper etchings...

 

attachicon.gifIMG_3540.JPG

 

And the rear...

 

attachicon.gifIMG_3541.JPG

 

They are simply cut from the fret and placed over the point drawing which you can either download from their site or use Tempolot etc.

 

Hope this answers your question ?

 

G

What an old fashioned idea! Martin Wynne was making them (but machined, rather than etched), over 40 years ago, for his 85a Models point kits, and very nice they were too. Mine were still nice and solid when I scrapped the layout over 30 years later.

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I'm back,

 

Phew ! This is keeping me fit !!!

 

Right then,

 

The pack as it comes...

 

IMG_3539.JPG

 

Front of sleeper etchings...

 

IMG_3540.JPG

 

And the rear...

 

IMG_3541.JPG

 

They are simply cut from the fret and placed over the point drawing which you can either download from their site or use Tempolot etc.

 

Hope this answers your question ?

 

G

So they're solder pads on etched copper clad or similar? No need to gap as the copperclad doesn't go right across the sleeps. I have some copper etching chemicals somewhere (yikes!) I got in Maplins, you just need a resist on the copper you want to keep (marker pen works) and chuck it in. Forgot about that....ummmmm

 

J. G. Haigh

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I'm back,

 

Phew ! This is keeping me fit !!!

 

Right then,

 

The pack as it comes...

 

attachicon.gifIMG_3539.JPG

 

Front of sleeper etchings...

 

attachicon.gifIMG_3540.JPG

 

And the rear...

 

attachicon.gifIMG_3541.JPG

 

They are simply cut from the fret and placed over the point drawing which you can either download from their site or use Tempolot etc.

 

Hope this answers your question ?

 

G

Much too clever by far. Dubbs needs to make his chairs and other metal bits out of pure ore and then use a foundry thing to melt it and stir it up. Only this sort of purity is allowed for OO OFFOOFSOO stuff. Also he could get a tree and fell it and make real timbers (for the points) and sleepers for the track. he can fund this by selling his house.

A.N. Agentinastate.

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Oh yes, have all the gauges and stuff... maybe missing a bit of skill but I will persevere.

The reason I ask, Dear Heart, is because I recently built an A5 crossover in OO-SF for 'Bethesda Sidings':

post-57-0-49704400-1507564196.jpg

 

One tip I would give you is to indulge in a bit of gauge-widening on the curved bits, to ensure that the likes of Bachmann panniers and Jintys can get round without any bother. Mine do now, but my 22XX (which has turned Romford driving wheels and Ultrascale tender wheels) doesn't like it. The tender comes off, because the axles use the original Mainline axle bearings in the tender (outside frame) and don't have any play in them. It doesn't derail on ordinary OO finescale points of the same geometry (there's one on 'Bleakhouse Road', for example), so I'm assuming that it's the 'SF' bit that's causing it.

 

I could, of course, fit a new tender chassis with inside bearings.

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The reason I ask, Dear Heart, is because I recently built an A5 crossover in OO-SF for 'Bethesda Sidings':

20170128_160349.jpg

 

One tip I would give you is to indulge in a bit of gauge-widening on the curved bits, to ensure that the likes of Bachmann panniers and Jintys can get round without any bother. Mine do now, but my 22XX (which has turned Romford driving wheels and Ultrascale tender wheels) doesn't like it. The tender comes off, because the axles use the original Mainline axle bearings in the tender (outside frame) and don't have any play in them. It doesn't derail on ordinary OO finescale points of the same geometry (there's one on 'Bleakhouse Road', for example), so I'm assuming that it's the 'SF' bit that's causing it.

 

I could, of course, fit a new tender chassis with inside bearings.

She's a beaut Captain.

 

What would you suggest to widen the gauge on the curvy bits, I have three OO-SF three point gauges, would they do it?

 

Oh and don't tell the Southern Secret Society that I have a couple of panniers and one of those baby hall things either.

I don't see the point in mentioning the prairie or the 66xx, if you wouldn't mind.

 

Thank you

Edited by Tim Dubya
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What would you suggest to widen the gauge on the curvy bits, I have three OO-SF three point gauges, would they do it?

 

 

I'd check what the gauge on the widest one is and probably use that one. You certainly want a minimum of 16.5mm on the curved bits (rather than the 16.2mm of OO-SF), and perhaps a tad more.

 

It helps if you have a ruler that has tads shown on it.

 

If you find out where to get one, please tell me, by the way.

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Thanks, will do, I have a pair of ooh ooh gauges and a pair of emmm gouges courtesy of Dr Quackenstein from the DuckTrakPak.

 

Yes I shall search for a ruler (other than Mrs Dubya / Ms Edwards) and see if it has Tad's.

 

Thank you for your kindness.

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3-point gauges are supposed to give the necessary gauge widening on curves. Just make sure the single point is on the inside of the curve! Being a cheapskate, I've got separate 31.5mm and 31.75mm gauges to use on my planned O-MF layout (the 7mm scale equivalent, or sorts, of OO-SF).

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The reason I ask, Dear Heart, is because I recently built an A5 crossover in OO-SF for 'Bethesda Sidings':

attachicon.gif20170128_160349.jpg

 

One tip I would give you is to indulge in a bit of gauge-widening on the curved bits, to ensure that the likes of Bachmann panniers and Jintys can get round without any bother. Mine do now, but my 22XX (which has turned Romford driving wheels and Ultrascale tender wheels) doesn't like it. The tender comes off, because the axles use the original Mainline axle bearings in the tender (outside frame) and don't have any play in them. It doesn't derail on ordinary OO finescale points of the same geometry (there's one on 'Bleakhouse Road', for example), so I'm assuming that it's the 'SF' bit that's causing it.

 

I could, of course, fit a new tender chassis with inside bearings.

That work is far too tidy. mess up the area immediately.

(Good work by the way).

Phart

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Been tidying the kitchen (at gunpoint) and found out all my previous experiments with trainsets. You'll see at one point I thought I was Great Western but I'm alright now.

post-1328-0-82539600-1507576961_thumb.jpg

 

edit: Just noticed I'd even put switch anchors one of these.

post-1328-0-10838900-1507576992_thumb.jpg

post-1328-0-04516900-1507577101_thumb.jpg

post-1328-0-15470400-1507577194_thumb.jpg

Edited by Tim Dubya
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Tim

 

With copperclad the rail is held vertical

 

As the good captain has said you may need a bit of gauge widening

 

Looks like you have mastered the basics of Templot

Thanks

 

I'll give it a go when I have time. Work for the next three days unfortunately.

 

Cheers

 

Tim

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Been tidying the kitchen (at gunpoint) and found out all my previous experiments with trainsets. You'll see at one point I thought I was Great Western but I'm all right now.

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20171009_193920002.jpg

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20171009_193907513.jpg

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20171009_194806525.jpg

 

attachicon.gifIMG_20171009_194751319.jpg

Grief, that is the fastest layout build in history. Can you indicate where the Exactingscaley bolty bits are so I can examine them through my magnifying glasses? Congrats on avoiding that strange railway. Not many people have the ability to resist that.

Ar$£

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Funky tablecloth, maybe use it for a backdrop ?

 

Louise L. Trek

 

I use it for a variety of things ;)

 

"did you take the table cloth off before you started that?"

 

I've yet to check it's rigidity to red and yellow flux... but I have a stronger desire to live.

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I have just copped a butchers at this train set, well idea that is becoming reality or something like that.

 

All I can say is .......................oh blow I forgot what I was going to say.

 

Stop waffling on about building your points, go on down the pawn shop with her jewellery she don't ever wear, trade it in for some Peco track tokens and buy them points that are all wrong.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Good divorce lawyers can be found in yellow pages.

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One advantage of this work* thing is I get to play with big printery type things (technical jargon - I work in an IT department [but I hasten to add know nuffin' about computers] they just didn't know where else to put me).

 

I have a plan....

 

post-1328-0-07821600-1507639401_thumb.jpg

 

Look at those lovely Temperlots on SRA3 170gsm silk.

 

NURSE!

 

 

* 15 hours to go and counting 

 

(not in one go.. that would be foolish, just the 18.5 hours a week spread over 3 days and no knights)

 

 

 

Edited by Tim Dubya
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some Peco track tokens and buy them points that are all wrong.

 

That would be far too quick and easy and cut out all the waffle.

 

M. Pushard

Edited by Tim Dubya
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