Help Requested - 7mm C&L Point in a Bag - confusing a beginner

[1965Paul]

Hi

i am constructing my first 7mm point in a bag to see if I can successfully complete one ahead of starting a small 7mm industrial layout (sorry yet another one!). I have laid out the timbering, the straight stock rail and glued that in place. Despite the picture - it is straight, I've checked three times. I have now moved onto the common crossing. In the point in a bag kits it comes as a complete prebuilt unit (thankfully!), the instructions state

"10. Slide one Chair onto each side of the wing rail on the common crossing ..................... These chairs sit on the timber that lay approx. half way between the knuckle and the toe end of the common crossing"

I have tried to do this and lay the common crossing where I think it sits, but there appears to be a soldered piece holding the wing rails and v in place stopping the chairs sliding far enough into the v to sit on the timber. .hopefully the picture describes my confusion more eloquently than I can in words.

Really appreciate any advice - I am sure to have missed something obvious, but I don't know what.

Thanks in advance



Paul

Edited October 12, 2017 by 1965Paul

[Stephen Freeman]

Hi,

Yes, I am sure your rail is straight, it's a problem when taking close-up photos. As for the bit in the way, if the piece in the way is allowing the rail to sit at the correct height, forget the instructions.

1) You need to put chairs on the rails that you can

2) Then superglue the crossing to the timbers on the metal pieces but only if they are correct height, if not, see below.

3) Use the approved solvent to fix the chairs down.

 

If the metal cross pieces, for want of a better description do not give a correct rail height, you are going to have to put some extra ones in and then remove those in the way, but better to use some 1mm metal strip (Code 75 Bullhead will do) and be careful to keep the alignment whilst doing so. Then use half chairs where it isn't possible to fit a whole chair.

 

It is cheaper, by the way, to just buy the rail, chairs and timbering and use Templot to generate any template or indeed your entire layout.

[ROSSPOP]

Hi Paul

 

You have only to slide chairs on the pre- assembled crossing ` where there are no pre soldered obstructions` you then cut/splice the chairs and fix with Butanone to disguise the fact.

 

I hope these explain what I mean..........

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

John

 

 

[martin_wynne]

"10. Slide one Chair onto each side of the wing rail on the common crossing ..................... These chairs sit on the timber that lay approx. half way between the knuckle and the toe end of the common crossing"

 

Hi Paul,

 

That means the Y timber, see:

 

 

edit: It's not very well written. That part of a wing rail is normally referred to as its "front", not its toe. The "toe" of a switch or turnout refers to the points or blade tips.

 

Martin.

Edited October 13, 2017 by martin_wynne

[1965Paul]

Stephen, John, Martin

 

thank you for taking the time to offer your advice, it is much appreciated. I am afraid that my workbench time will be rather limited over the next few days, but the way forward is totally clear. The emergency Peco order can remain on hold!

 

Stephen - agree its cheaper to buy separate items but I wanted the confidence that a single sourced item gives me, assuming I can complete this turnout to meet my (admittedly low) standards, then I will certainly look at sourcing separately next time, in fairness to C&L there are already enough timbers left over to make another 1/2 a turnout

 

thanks once again, hopefully I won't need to tap your collective wisdom again, but never say never......

 

 

kind regards

 

 

 

Paul

[1965Paul]

Hi all

 

Thanks for the advice so far, can anyone recommend a source and specification of dropper wire, preferably one that is available in most places so I can buy direct rather than via internet. Now I (sorry, that should be YOU) have sorted out the positioning of the v, keen to make the most of a couple of days off work.

 

Thanks in advance

 

 

Paul

[Stephen Freeman]

I buy mine online but I would think Maplins might have something suitable.

[ROSSPOP]

hi again Paul,

 

glad you got the `V` sorted....  I think C&L `boil in the bag` kits are great...

 

i always shop via the internet as I`m an `old codger` ....don`t get out much.... past the `man cave`

 

Expressmodels  will have all that you need for `droppers`..... although I would chat to mates about any spare telephone multistrand cable.....those telephone extension kit thingies......  and use the wires within.....

 

failing that Expressmodels  have all that you need............

 

 

And try and disguise them.........

 

 

 

John

[bécasse]

For droppers I have always used 1mm copper wire stripped from lighting cable - Wickes, for example, sell 1mm twin + earth cable in 25 metre lengths for around £ 9.50, which will provide a very large number of droppers indeed. The earth wire is bare so can be used as it stands, the other two wires need the blue/brown insulation stripped from them (but chopped very short lengths of the insulation can be added to the dropper wire sub-baseboard to help with identification). The copper wire solders easily and its low resistance means that it can handle even the highish current loads of a DCC-equipped layout without difficulty.