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Ordering from C&L





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#101 martin_wynne

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Posted 31 December 2017 - 15:16

I appreciate the info Stephen, but can you provide a link?  

 

Just trawled through the site again and I can only see three items listed and they are all 1.6mm....

 

Hi Gordon,

 

https://www.railroom...duct-83071.aspx

 

It appears to be C&L stockist. Showing stock level 12.

 

Martin.


Edited by martin_wynne, 31 December 2017 - 15:22 .


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#102 gordon s

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Posted 31 December 2017 - 15:22

Thanks Martin.  Stephen and I were at cross purposes as I thought he meant the Wizzard site.

 

I have now found out that Phoenix Paints have some in stock, but I still fancy cutting my own as the cost savings are immense.



#103 gordon s

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Posted 31 December 2017 - 15:43

Just been up and cut a few strips again with my Proxxon saw.  I don't want to wander off topic as this is about C & L, so I'll post the results in my Eastwood Town thread later today.



#104 purplepiepete

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Posted 31 December 2017 - 15:59

As a general query on the subject of track making has anyone tried the DCC Concepts products ? Are these a new idea or a rehash ?

 

https://www.dccconce...k-making-parts/



#105 bgman

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Posted 31 December 2017 - 16:13

As a general query on the subject of track making has anyone tried the DCC Concepts products ? Are these a new idea or a rehash ?

 

https://www.dccconce...k-making-parts/

 

I've used them for several points which have been generated using Templot.

 

They are a useful alternative to copper clad and have pads ready to solder into as per the attached.

 

IMG_2649.jpg

 

Hope this gives you some idea.

 

Grahame

 

Edit : I have been using them for several years and I'm not aware that they are a rehash of any other product.


Edited by bgman, 31 December 2017 - 16:15 .

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#106 Re6/6

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 09:23

As a general query on the subject of track making has anyone tried the DCC Concepts products ? Are these a new idea or a rehash ?

 

https://www.dccconce...k-making-parts/

The stainless bullhead rail has to be treated very carefully as it is very 'soft'. Our reason for using the stuff was for on the viaduct as it was claimed to be 'dirt resistant'. That turned out to be a costly mistake (a lot was bought!) as any bends made, both accidental or deliberate, are impossible to straighten and I'm not particularly hamfisted! It will be used elsewhere in the future!

 

It was all replaced with C&L's 'Hi-NI'.

 

002.jpg


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#107 purplepiepete

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 15:09

The stainless bullhead rail has to be treated very carefully as it is very 'soft'. Our reason for using the stuff was for on the viaduct as it was claimed to be 'dirt resistant'. That turned out to be a costly mistake (a lot was bought!) as any bends made, both accidental or deliberate, are impossible to straighten and I'm not particularly hamfisted! It will be used elsewhere in the future!

 

It was all replaced with C&L's 'Hi-NI'.

 

attachicon.gif002. Surprised but I guess although maybe more resistant to corrosion, Stainless appears 'inferior' to Nickel Silver for rail.  Guess it may also be harder to solder without a specialist flux.

 

Price wise it's virtually the same for a 10m pack. I have always used the C&L HiNi (with ply sleepers) in both 4mm and 7mm and never had a problem other than it gets a bit of oxidation. I'll stick with this then !

 

Pete,



#108 gismorail

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 16:12

As an occasional user of C&L track components I have always found that the service to have been spot on and having spoken to the new owner at the Warley Show I do hope that this service can be matched in the future. I do understand the poor guys frustration if the web site is not coming up to expectations and if I were in his position I would be asking questions of the previous owner and seeking some form of help to sort out the problems. I'm sure that the business did not to come cheap and it must be something of a worrying situation for the new owner ...


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#109 Greenmodelmonkey

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Posted 01 January 2018 - 19:24

As an occasional user of C&L track components I have always found that the service to have been spot on and having spoken to the new owner at the Warley Show I do hope that this service can be matched in the future. I do understand the poor guys frustration if the web site is not coming up to expectations and if I were in his position I would be asking questions of the previous owner and seeking some form of help to sort out the problems. I'm sure that the business did not to come cheap and it must be something of a worrying situation for the new owner ...


I did look at what the business had to offer but for me I decided the business and manufacturing risk was too high. I was also led to believe the design rights etc were still retained by the original product owners, which was rather limiting to future expansion. I do have a good idea of what price was being asked for the whole business, so think we need to wait patiently and trust that everything will come good in the future as it's not a trivial matter to take on a new businees with so many hazards which may end up tripping you up. Full marks to the man for taking this business on as no one else was prepared to at the time!!
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#110 Re6/6

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 07:00

 

Surprised but I guess although maybe more resistant to corrosion, Stainless appears 'inferior' to Nickel Silver for rail.  Guess it may also be harder to solder without a specialist flux.

 

Yes, I think that you're wise Pete to avoid the stuff. I did forget to mention the soldering difficulty (well l found it difficult even using their own flux!). The other difficulty was that it doesn't cut with the Xurons only squashing it. Perhaps l need a new sharp set!


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#111 Stephen Freeman

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Posted 02 January 2018 - 09:26

Flux - I found the DCC no-clean flux works fine with everything except their rail, especially good on ordinary steel rail but for the rail I found, as previously mentioned, that the Building 0 Gauge safety flux better. For cutting, the only satisfactory method I found was a slitting disc.

 

Personally I found the slight difficulties are worth it. It looks more realistic (to me) and the lack of tarnish is an important plus.


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#112 Junctionmad

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 05:22

Flux - I found the DCC no-clean flux works fine with everything except their rail, especially good on ordinary steel rail but for the rail I found, as previously mentioned, that the Building 0 Gauge safety flux better. For cutting, the only satisfactory method I found was a slitting disc.
 
Personally I found the slight difficulties are worth it. It looks more realistic (to me) and the lack of tarnish is an important plus.


I bought some to test , won't touch it with a barge pole now , difficult to file , solder , bend , very very few advantages and loads of disadvantages, a solution looking for a problem
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#113 hayfield

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 10:06

I find the C&L HiNi rail the best all round product and against other nickle silver rail, its the less yellowish.

 

Personally I have kept away from stainless steel after the many replies stating the problems involved

 

With steel rail it does look a bit better, but I find it is both too soft (kinks easily) and rusts far too easily

 

I have been told wheels with steel tyres work better on steel rail, but that's mainly for the P4 and some EM gauge modellers



#114 JeffP

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 13:54

Stainless is difficult to machine in any way.

 

I once made a bike chainwhip to remove the rear sprockets on a mountain bike. It had a piece of stainless as a handle, about 6mm thick. Took me an age to drill it, even with a pillar drill.



#115 Siberian Snooper

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 14:45

Stainless is difficult to machine in any way.
 
I once made a bike chainwhip to remove the rear sprockets on a mountain bike. It had a piece of stainless as a handle, about 6mm thick. Took me an age to drill it, even with a pillar drill.


When I was drilling stainless for a living, I always started with a 1/16th or 1.50mm drill dipped in grinding paste first and worked my way up, doubling the size of the drill as I went, always with grinding paste. Once above a 1/4 inch, if I needed to go larger I used a cobalt drill used usually for drilling armour plate. No such luck on board of using a pillar drill, a length of wood and a length of rope to secure it and give a pivot point.

#116 purplepiepete

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 16:13

Wow, If I ever go down the route of Stainless Steel rail it sounds like I had better invest in a Plasma Cutter and MIG Welder first then ! :o


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#117 Stephen Freeman

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 11:36

I find the C&L HiNi rail the best all round product and against other nickle silver rail, its the less yellowish.

 

Personally I have kept away from stainless steel after the many replies stating the problems involved

 

With steel rail it does look a bit better, but I find it is both too soft (kinks easily) and rusts far too easily

 

I have been told wheels with steel tyres work better on steel rail, but that's mainly for the P4 and some EM gauge modellers

Well at least the stainless won't rust!

 

In my experience, for soldering steel rail any flux that works rusts normal steel except for DCC Concepts Sapphire no clean but I wouldn't use it on their stainless steel rail.

 

For stainless steel rail, cutting and machining is best done with a slitting disc, anything else is not worth bothering with.


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#118 Re6/6

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 12:02

Thanks Stephen with the slitting disc advice. I wish that l'd thought of that. Knowing that now, there is salvation for all those metres of the stuff and they won't be wasted!


Edited by Re6/6, 06 January 2018 - 12:03 .


#119 Junctionmad

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Posted 08 January 2018 - 18:52

When I was drilling stainless for a living, I always started with a 1/16th or 1.50mm drill dipped in grinding paste first and worked my way up, doubling the size of the drill as I went, always with grinding paste. Once above a 1/4 inch, if I needed to go larger I used a cobalt drill used usually for drilling armour plate. No such luck on board of using a pillar drill, a length of wood and a length of rope to secure it and give a pivot point.

 

this is of course because stainless steel work hardens as its its cut or drilled and if chip production is poor , it rapidly becomes almost unworkable 



#120 polybear

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Posted 12 January 2018 - 21:47

I believe C&L will be at the Stevenage exhibition this weekend.



#121 Flymo748

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 19:46

I believe C&L will be at the Stevenage exhibition this weekend.

 

That is correct.  I'm sure that if anyone has any questions, Phil will be happy to answer them in person.  I had a good chat with him about things this afternoon.

 

BTW, excellent show.  Highly recommended.  I'll be back again tomorrow on the Scalefour Society Stand.

 

Cheers

Flymo


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#122 MikeH_83

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Posted 13 January 2018 - 22:48

That is correct.  I'm sure that if anyone has any questions, Phil will be happy to answer them in person.  I had a good chat with him about things this afternoon.

 

BTW, excellent show.  Highly recommended.  I'll be back again tomorrow on the Scalefour Society Stand.

 

Cheers

Flymo

 

I think he must be slowly getting on top of things,  I had one of my orders come through before Christmas and just waiting on the last 1 now.  I am sure it'll all come together in the end :)


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#123 hayfield

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 10:25

I think he must be slowly getting on top of things,  I had one of my orders come through before Christmas and just waiting on the last 1 now.  I am sure it'll all come together in the end :)

 

 

I was with Phil at the weekend and the advice he was giving folk was to phone him rather than email (he has a few issues with emails and with the spam filter either being too good or not good enough), also has spent the past 2 weeks meeting with suppliers picking up stock, supplies had been run down by the previous owner and apparently stock mixed up and unpacked.

 

He now has got most of the items back in stock, but needing packing up into retail sizes. Also has been chatting about which Exactoscale items could be commercially viable in the future.

 

Unlike Peter Phil is on his own, has no staff so if he is making up packs of parts then he is not addressing orders etc. He is doing his best to try and keep as many happy as he can,

 

Phoning is the best method of contacting him at this moment 


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#124 Junctionmad

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 11:38

Anyone know of he's attending Modelrailscotland ?

Edited by Junctionmad, 15 January 2018 - 11:38 .


#125 hayfield

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Posted 15 January 2018 - 13:06

Anyone know of he's attending Modelrailscotland ?

 

 

Not on his list of shows at the moment, trouble being he lives south of the Thames









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