Precision Craft DCC/DC H0 Y6b 2-8-8-2 2195 Loksound engine won't go

[10000]

Sorry - my fault. I should have warned you about pulling to hard on the wires and to stop if the plug was not coming out.

 

Don't just look for places that repair model locos. You need someone who can repair electrical and electronic items. If they can replace components in a VCR they may be able to repair the board/socket

 

 

Edit 

 

I have to admit I have had the same experience. Not on a model loco but on a CD player.

 

It was skipping and jumping so needed the transport mechanism cleaning. To get to to it required a circuit board to be removed. Same thing a plug too tight in socket and the socket came off the board.  Once the circuit board was out I was able to remove the wires from the casing and to prove to myself that it was a plug in socket I managed to separate them. What made me sure it was a plug in socket was the fact it was a red plug in a white socket.

Edited October 28, 2017 by 10000

[10000]

If you are going to follow the suggestion to test the 21 pin decoder from the non runner in the tender of the runner to determine if its OK. then there is another test you could do while its open.

 

With no decoder in the running tender fit an 8 pin blank and then plug the running tender into the non runner loco and test with DC. 

 

Doing that you will at least know if the fault is inside the non runner loco

[10000]

This is a question for the electronic experts on here.

 

Had this thought while running some trains.

 

If Rob cannot find someone to solder a surface mount socket back into the tender could the 8 pin socket be used for some of the wiring. Using an 8 pin plug with wires attached so that 6 connections are wires soldered to the wires that go to the loco.

2  track pickups, 2 motor feeds and 2 for the front light leaving only what I assume is a chuff sensor to sort out.  Maybe some of you could work out which pins on the 21 pin plug that uses and a way to connect to them.

 

Shoot me down if you think it a rubbish idea.

[robmcg]

Thankyou all who have taken an interest in my adventure, or misadventure. I have put the good runner away for sale, and will take a short break from doing anything with the non-runner, I have been told of a good model railway hobby retailer near here who almost certainly knows of someone who might be able to help make something of it.

 

It is interesting to read of possible ways to re-instate things, such as re-instating the socket onto the circuit board, or perhaps even just establishing sufficient wires for silent DC operation.

 

I found it very exhausting, with I'm loathe to say it, my injuries which include two very major multiple injury-related strokes (both many years ago), hence the numb arm and hand and fatigue, which if nothing else do encourage a perspective on things which really matter.

 

Thanks again.

[10000]

If you need more help with the non runner or anything else then remember people on here will do things at any pace you want to set. Don't feel obliged to do things every day. Do things in a way that is right for you. Don't wear yourself out, its only a hobby.

 

Mike

[robmcg]

Well, I thought I might take the tender-engine harness (which may well have faulty wires in it) and cut all the wires at about the half-way mark and then carefully strip the end of each wire,

I could use the new ohmmeter to check each wire for integrity, if I can muster the dexterity.

 

Then plug it into the engine, place the engine on a DC track with power on at about 1/4, and see if touching any two wires together creates movement, if it does, twist the two wires together, (closing what would be pins 1 and 5) insulate the bare twisted bit, and cut or insulate all the others and stuff out-of-the-way into the tender orifice.

 

DC runner, no soldering, no great eyesight needed, if it is in fact the harness which is/was the culprit. Of course the engine might be dead anyway.... so I won't be doing this today.

 

Am I mad or would this possibly make a DC runner?  Who needs DCC anyway eh wot?

 

Cheers,

 

typo edit

Edited October 29, 2017 by robmcg

[PaulRhB]

Frustration for you and as DM says, for us that it's not easy to say send the decoder and board to us to check

There must be 21pin sockets available so it would be fairly easy to replace the board by hardwiring to the socket.

Have you tried an email to the manufacturer to see what the pins in the socket on the loco are? If you're putting it by for now there's plenty of time to get a response. they might even offer a new board cheap.

[robmcg]

Frustration for you and as DM says, for us that it's not easy to say send the decoder and board to us to check

There must be 21pin sockets available so it would be fairly easy to replace the board by hardwiring to the socket.

Have you tried an email to the manufacturer to see what the pins in the socket on the loco are? If you're putting it by for now there's plenty of time to get a response. they might even offer a new board cheap.

 

Neither BLI nor PCM offer servicing or backup for these models,

 

http://www.broadway-limited.com/discontinueditems.aspx

 

the Y6bs are about 95% of the way down.

 

I think there may be specialists in the US who have such parts.  A friend has tried to make contact with BLI recently but so far has not had a reply.

[10000]

Rob don't cut the wires yet.

 

You could maybe make it easier to identify the wires by using the tender off the runner.

 

No cable to pull out the tender. Unplugged from the loco. Remove the decoder.  Then using the meter on buzzer check each wire from the loco end to the 8 pin decoder socket in the tender. 

 

I would expect you to find 6 of the wires that way. The final 2 wires you may find by checking them against the pins of the 21 pin plug at the  back of tender.

 

If you decide to do this take your time and make notes then repeat the process to confirm.

 

If you can get that info there could be the possibility of getting DCC and may be sound as well.

 

Mike

[Izzy]

Thankyou all who have taken an interest in my adventure, or misadventure. I have put the good runner away for sale, and will take a short break from doing anything with the non-runner, I have been told of a good model railway hobby retailer near here who almost certainly knows of someone who might be able to help make something of it.

 

 As this might just be the case, could I possibly suggest that you hold fire with cutting the harness? If there is somebody that could play around with it, having the complete harness + socket would enable them to perhaps test the wires/socket for continuity and re-attach them to the tender board in the correct order, even if they had to remove the plug and solder them direct onto the board. I would guess cut at the plug the leads would still reach the loco.

 

Izzy

[10000]

OK a bit more time now.

 

Izzy has made a sound suggestion

 

The  reason I don't want you to cut the wires yet is so that if we do this then we want to keep as much hidden in the tender as possible so that only the original  wires are visible between the tender and loco.

 

If the retailer option falls through then for what I have in mind, I want to do it where you only have to solder wires and not attempt to solder to the board.

 

For this you will need the following 

 

8 pin plug complete with wires - maybe you have one left over.

 

21 pin blank.

 

Heat shrink of a suitable size

 

Glue gun may also be useful but if you don't have then don't bother getting one.

 

I'll leave it there for now while we wait and see if something via the retailer is viable.

[robmcg]

Thanks all, I'll leave it for the time being.

 

The running engine is on the market to be sold, I am loathe to disturb it in its packaging.

 

Thanks again.

[robmcg]

Frustration for you and as DM says, for us that it's not easy to say send the decoder and board to us to check

There must be 21pin sockets available so it would be fairly easy to replace the board by hardwiring to the socket.

Have you tried an email to the manufacturer to see what the pins in the socket on the loco are? If you're putting it by for now there's plenty of time to get a response. they might even offer a new board cheap.

 

Emails to Precision Craft Models?  Were they Not bought out by Broadway Limited?  BLI no longer service their Y6bs.  

 

A fiends has had no response to his emails to BLI.

[robmcg]

for interest's sake, here is what I really enjoy about the Y6bs....  great photos!

 

 

 

more to come of 2195 in due course.

 

Cheers

 

 

[Tom in Vienna]

Hi,

I came across this thread by accident. I live in the US and I have had 2195 since new. That number was a DC model though I fitted a Loksound 3.5 to mine. There are a number of reasons which could explain the problem you are having. The most likely is that the 9-wire (not 8) connector between tender and loco is not making a good connection. Make sure that it is firmly pressed in at each end. There are offset pegs on each end so they only properly fit in the correct alignment. Also, it is very easy to pinch one or more of the wires when fitting the tender body. Use a multimeter set on 200 ohms to check each end of each wire in the connector. It is unlikely there is any fault in the loco itself. The 9 pin connectors which for appearance are all black, are wired in DCC format, L to R looking forward, as black, gray, blue, green, unused, unused, white, orange, red.

To diagnose the problem, assuming you do not have a decoder fitted, you should put the loco on the track, put in a blanking plug in the 8 pin socket (or connect the two end pins, which connects red to orange and black to gray) then apply DC power. If nothing happens, use test leads to connect power to the motor terminals directly. If motor runs, then the wiring needs to be checked all the way back. No point in fitting a decoder until all this is done.