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Lima Class 47 - VERY basic servicing question


AdmiralTrevor
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I have a Lima class 47 with the usual Lima rattling motor - but this one also runs jerkily.

 

Can someone please tell a complete novice -

1 - where can I put oil on parts that can be seen without removing the body shell

 

and 2 -

 

where should I put spots of oil that can be seen when the body shell is removed.

 

Easy when you know how I suppose. I don't.

 

Thanks for any one's help

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Take the body off... (Remove all 4 buffers and it will unclip)

 

The only place I ever oil lima locos is on the motor spindle.  it looks like a ball bearing in the centre of the motor.  put a drop of light machine oil on that, and on the other side behind the cog.

Run it for a few minutes to allow the oil to work its way in.

 

If the gears are dry, I use a little white grease.

 

Other than that, It shouldn't need anything else.  Lima motors are pretty robust and don't need a tremendous amount of maintenance.    The main thing is keeping the wheels clean!

Edited by Trains4U
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Take the body off... (Remove all 4 buffers and it will unclip)

 

The only place I ever oil lima locos is on the motor spindle.  it looks like a ball bearing in the centre of the motor.  put a drop of light machine oil on that, and on the other side behind the cog.

Run it for a few minutes to allow the oil to work its way in.

 

If the gears are dry, I use a little white grease.

 

Other than that, It shouldn't need anything else.  Lima motors are pretty robust and don't need a tremendous amount of maintenance.    The main thing is keeping the wheels clean!

Thanks 4U - that's what I will do.                      Trevor

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I find the brass wheels oxidise over time. Run some emery paper over the current collecting wheel running surface, oil the motor as trains4U states above and your loco should run as new (mine do and they're getting on for 25 years+ old).

 

Brit15

Edited by APOLLO
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The Lima power bogie should run nicely, they growl but jerking suggests dirty wheels or a bad connection between pick up wire and the trailing bogie pivot pin or pin to pick up strip.

Remove the body as described and have a look see.  I think the buffers go through body and chassis so have to come off, mine is/ was modified to have cut away skirts so mine are on the chassis.

 

Lube is a two edged sort of sword, the metal armature bearings like a drop but  oily gears pick up abrasive dirt especially if the track is ballasted which wears the pivots and teeth.

 

The ModelTorque and similar motor conversions run more smoothly and don't have the power and speed of the Lima original which makes the gears last a lot longer but I wouldn't want to try hauling scale length passenger trains at scale speed (100 for a 47/7) with one in the way the Lima original does.   

The Hornby 47 power bogie from earlier years is worse than the Lima, the inline with X04 like armature  is absolutely hopeless with short life plastic  armature bearings, and the Ringfield not much better.   My Ringfield version has been retrofitted with a Hornby Tender Drive unit with is a direct replacement and has nearer to scale wheels if you ignore or fill in the spokes and with matching wheels on the trailing bogie and looks and runs a lot better.  

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Another good idea is to remove the base of the trailing bogie (make sure you keep the wheels the right way round) and lighten the tension on the pick up spring, also clean the axles and lightly lubricate the bearing surfaces.

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The Lima power bogie should run nicely, they growl but jerking suggests dirty wheels or a bad connection between pick up wire and the trailing bogie pivot pin or pin to pick up strip.

Remove the body as described and have a look see.  I think the buffers go through body and chassis so have to come off, mine is/ was modified to have cut away skirts so mine are on the chassis.

 

Lube is a two edged sort of sword, the metal armature bearings like a drop but  oily gears pick up abrasive dirt especially if the track is ballasted which wears the pivots and teeth.

 

The ModelTorque and similar motor conversions run more smoothly and don't have the power and speed of the Lima original which makes the gears last a lot longer but I wouldn't want to try hauling scale length passenger trains at scale speed (100 for a 47/7) with one in the way the Lima original does.   

The Hornby 47 power bogie from earlier years is worse than the Lima, the inline with X04 like armature  is absolutely hopeless with short life plastic  armature bearings, and the Ringfield not much better.   My Ringfield version has been retrofitted with a Hornby Tender Drive unit with is a direct replacement and has nearer to scale wheels if you ignore or fill in the spokes and with matching wheels on the trailing bogie and looks and runs a lot better.  

Thanks Dave,

 

All points noted. Your experienced comments are appreciated.

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Another good idea is to remove the base of the trailing bogie (make sure you keep the wheels the right way round) and lighten the tension on the pick up spring, also clean the axles and lightly lubricate the bearing surfaces.

Thanks Royal,

 

As well as the rattling 47 I also have two more which are much quieter. The difference is probably the applied knowledge and experience which you and others have. I have noted all of these advices and as and when brave enough to go under the bonnet I shall carefully experiment.

At the moment I am rebuilding my layout following house move.

 

Thanks again for your suggestions.

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  • 4 weeks later...

There is only one way to build knowledge and that is to get stuck in, Lima locos being quite simple and robust are excellent for learning on.

Thanks Royal,

It is useful to know that.

Over the last month I have been rebuilding my layout. When testing the track I am pleased with the way that my LIMA locos have rarely derailed, compared with my much more detailed and larger Bachmann locos which need more perfect track alignments to stay on the tracks, which my Limas pass without problems.

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Thats one of the problems with modern models, they need the track to be almost perfect and the slightest imperfection has them jumping off the track, the older models simply require the track joints to be somewhere close and they just keep ln podding around.

 

Of course that means our track laying has to improve, although I am still working on that bit.

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