Ruston Posted November 13, 2017 Share Posted November 13, 2017 What type and make was the paint? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 13, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 13, 2017 The really dribbly one was an ebay special, I'll have to look it up. I'm now using a Rover Yellow from Halfords which is a bit thin but better. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted November 14, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 14, 2017 Yellow is just about the worst colour to spray successfully, did you use white primer? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 14, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 14, 2017 Yellow is just about the worst colour to spray successfully, did you use white primer? Not the first time around, but I since read yellow is best over white primer. When I came to spray the second time, it turned out my girlfriend had used all my white primer! So I've gone over the yellow filler primer to see what will happen when I use thin coats. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 19, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 19, 2017 (edited) 2nd attempt at spraying yellow. I did a few light coats before I went away with work for a week, then a bit more yesterday. Left it overnight to harden before touching it, and a spell out on the balcony in the sunshine. Much better. Still not perfect as a bit of detail has been lost, and it is a bit uneven in places, but much better than the ruined splodgy coat. This attempt used Rover Inca Yellow rather than the cheap nameless yellow from before. Still runnier than most but not as bad. I've touched in a few black details which helps set it off a bit. It's not secured down in the pics yet. EDIT. With a few extras, posed alongside its stablemate... Edited November 19, 2017 by Corbs 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gpplumy Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 What chassis are you looking to use under the smaller model Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 20, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 20, 2017 I have a Hornby Pug chassis block to measure up, possibly with a different motor. The body actually needs extending a bit to match the real loco's bunker. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RANGERS Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 Digressing from the thread topic slightly but does anyone know of a drawing of the related 16” Hunslets available anywhere on the web? There was on in RM in 1972 but that was even before my time. Even confirmation of the wheel diameter would be a big step forward. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 20, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 20, 2017 Michael Edge may be able to help you if you ask him? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ruston Posted November 20, 2017 Share Posted November 20, 2017 (edited) Digressing from the thread topic slightly but does anyone know of a drawing of the related 16” Hunslets available anywhere on the web? There was on in RM in 1972 but that was even before my time. Even confirmation of the wheel diameter would be a big step forward. According to Don Townsley's The Hunslet Engine Works the wheels were 4-feet and one half inch diameter. Edit: Sorry, I thought you were meaning the 18-inch locos as in the one Corbs is building here. Edited November 20, 2017 by Ruston Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Michael Edge Posted November 21, 2017 RMweb Premium Share Posted November 21, 2017 Michael Edge may be able to help you if you ask him? Could always buy a kit from us.... 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 22, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 22, 2017 (edited) Apologies for the very samey image content at the moment, but I am progressing with the big Hunslet. I ran out of white letter Cs so the other side is shown here with black lettering. I'm adding details like handrails back on. The chimney is a cast one from RT Models. The black borders are currently not very even so I'm going round with the masking tape and cutting them in (well, I'm going to attempt to make them neat, otherwise there will be some heavy handed weathering to cover up all the mistakes!). Currently posing with the Hornby bufferbeams refitted for the time being. After a coat of matt lacquer, with the YEC 0-6-0ST which now has some hefty motion brackets. Edited November 22, 2017 by Corbs 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted November 25, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted November 25, 2017 I like my engines to be working locos, so have started a bit of weathering. In order to work it needs couplings, too! I had to bore out a substantial bit of chassis to get the kadee in, which is secured with a screw and located via a slot in the bufferbeam and styrene strip. I wanted the option to convert to 3 links without leaving massive holes in the bufferbeam, so the slot is a compromise. Appropriately, it is shunting a China Clay wagon (which is very clean!). 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted December 18, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 18, 2017 No.3 simmers in the yard after bringing a train up from Brendam. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RANGERS Posted December 19, 2017 Share Posted December 19, 2017 (edited) That does look smart, it’s really crying out for an etch for the full depth buffer beams though. Now who could do those, I wonder?The other thing you could change is the injectors should be removed, the 50550s had backhead mounted injectors, which many said is where they should have stayed on the Austerity but the underslung type were easier to maintain. Edited December 20, 2017 by RANGERS Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted December 19, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 19, 2017 (edited) Good shout! I had not noticed that before, will get them removed. I agree about the bufferbeams, the full depth ones are one of my favourite parts of the original. Edited December 19, 2017 by Corbs Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold RThompson Posted December 19, 2017 RMweb Gold Share Posted December 19, 2017 Now I've caught up with orders with work and the heavy snow we've had, I am planning on finishing the drawing off over christmas unless I'm called out to work. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pacific231G Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 No.3 simmers in the yard after bringing a train up from Brendam. SCC3-1.jpg Hi Corbs OT but looking at this photo I notice a couple of half length Kadee magnets. Have you found a reliable way of dividing them? I usually score the magnet top and bottom, clamp it in a voice then use pliers to break it in half but I don't always get a clean break. Also, with the Code 75 track that I think you're using have you found a reliable way of mounting them at the correct height; My current layout is code 100 so the magnets, suitable disguised, just sit on top of the sleepers but my next layout will be Code 75 so I'll need to cut away the sleepers. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted December 20, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 20, 2017 Hi Corbs OT but looking at this photo I notice a couple of half length Kadee magnets. Have you found a reliable way of dividing them? I usually score the magnet top and bottom, clamp it in a voice then use pliers to break it in half but I don't always get a clean break. Also, with the Code 75 track that I think you're using have you found a reliable way of mounting them at the correct height; My current layout is code 100 so the magnets, suitable disguised, just sit on top of the sleepers but my next layout will be Code 75 so I'll need to cut away the sleepers. They're a nightmare. I wish I'd never cut away the sleepers, it's really difficult to get them all the same height. I wish I'd just laid them on the standard track. You can see in the pic the bottom-right one is not level (and is not reliable for uncoupling) whereas the other too are proud. I used a dremel to cut out the sleepers but I would not recommend it, if I did it again I'd just lay them as they come and adjust the trip wires to suit. For cutting them, I used the razor saw to make an incision and then snapped them in the vice as you say, sort of works but not always a clean break. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pacific231G Posted December 20, 2017 Share Posted December 20, 2017 (edited) They're a nightmare. I wish I'd never cut away the sleepers, it's really difficult to get them all the same height. I wish I'd just laid them on the standard track. You can see in the pic the bottom-right one is not level (and is not reliable for uncoupling) whereas the other too are proud. I used a dremel to cut out the sleepers but I would not recommend it, if I did it again I'd just lay them as they come and adjust the trip wires to suit. For cutting them, I used the razor saw to make an incision and then snapped them in the vice as you say, sort of works but not always a clean break. Hmm Thanks Corbs, that all sounds very familiar especially the not always clean break. Even with code 100 I find that I need to use the Kadee gauge to get them to the right height while the glue sets. Sounds like I should consider using under track magnets with the metal plate thingy steel intensifier plate, the catch is that I'd have to be very sure of their final positions before laying any track which is not my normal experience. Kadee do produce magnets for Code 83 (#322) but I've not yet used one. Update Looking at the blurb on the Kadee site, the top surface of the magnet should be 0.015" (15 thou) above the height of the railhead. and the code 100 magnet #321 is 0.115" thick. The code 83 magnet is actually 0.100" thick so would be 0.013" (13 thou) above railhead.using it with code 75 track would put it 0.025" (25thou) above railheight which is a tad high but probably within my margin of error. Kadee do make a gluing jig #334 for their above track uncouplers and for about three quid it's probably worth getting one. It's the same for all of the uncouplers as it works on the height above railhead. All this of course assumes that the foot of the rail is sitting directly on the sleepers, with the new bullhead code 75 it may all come out in the wash . Edited December 20, 2017 by Pacific231G 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted December 31, 2017 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted December 31, 2017 I finally mustered the courage to drill into the chassis once more and fit a rear Kadee coupling. There's no provision for an NEM pocket on the Hornby/Dapol model, so I used a simpler style of Kadee (the one with just a hole for screw mounting, and two stabilising bars on each side). It just required a notch in the bufferbeam, and I used the former tension lock mounting screw. To fit the coupling itself, I drilled out a wide 'cavern' of sorts, taking loads of material out, then the height is set by jamming black tack in to the hole with the coupling and spacing with styrene strip, the notch in the bufferbeam serves to 'centre' the coupling. It can now shunt a lot more! Here it is ready to draw the two fish vans out of the loading bay. The injector pipework has been removed. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted January 24, 2018 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted January 24, 2018 (edited) A couple of doctored shots with smoke effects from the 'Werble' app. Edited January 24, 2018 by Corbs 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RANGERS Posted January 24, 2018 Share Posted January 24, 2018 A couple of doctored shots with smoke/sepia effects. Werble-29F5DD80F.gif Werble-2236160AF.gif Quite exquisite. A real masterpiece there. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
luke the train spotter Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 Look excellent! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted March 1, 2019 Author RMweb Gold Share Posted March 1, 2019 (edited) I stumbled across this photo for sale on eBay of a 50550 at where I presume is Stewarts and Lloyds in Corby. I'd not realised that this loco was painted in the yellow colour scheme and assumed it had always worn green. So I guess my yellow 50550 is a little more realistic! I should get on and modify the bufferbeam on mine. One item of interest is that the bunker has been extended so that the diagonal line is does not extend to the lip of the bunker. Edited November 13, 2019 by Corbs 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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