Modellers table saw

[Fettster42]

Hi, I am looking to get a table saw for Xmas. Currently I am looking at the Proxxon Bench circular saw KS 230.

 

Has anyone used one of these and any feedback.

 

My intention is to use it primarily to cut wood into suitable strip woods sizes for board on board construction so anything from as small as 1/16" to no more than around 1/2" dimensions.

 

Will this do the job, and if not what would your recommendation be? Budget is an issue and the primary reason I am looking at the KS230 rather than FET table saw.

 

Thanks

 

Leigh

[monkeysarefun]

As a model ship builder I did have a Proxxon as my first 'real' saw. (My actual first saw was a slotting blade stuck in  an old B&D drill mounted under a saw table I made out of mechano. Amazingly I still have all my fingers.)

 

If you are prepared to accept the limitations of accuracy and timber types that you can put through it then it is a good saw. I found it not accurate enough to consistently cut planks of equal thickness, this is iimportant in ship modelling when you are cutting  a huge number of them, it might not be an issue with what you are wanting it for.

 

That said, for its price its worth the money, I don't know of many other small table saws of a similar price, I assume Micromark have one but that would probably be US voltage plus ther'd be US shipping costs.

 

I have other Proxxon tools - disk sander, scrollsaw and a micro cutter and they are all solid well made tools, and very quiet.

 

I guess the work of art that is the  Byrnes table saw is a bit of overkill?  I was lucky to get mine when the Oz dollar was worth more than the US and so it actually worked out less than what a local Proxxon FET was going for. (The shipping from the US was eyw-watering though and just about  wiped out that saving!)

Edited November 12, 2017 by monkeysarefun

[young37215]

The original post raises a good question about the products suitability for modellers mechanical cutting. I am interested to learn if this sort of tool can also be used to cut plasticard and the like. Try as I might, I can not get the level of precision I seek by using the traditional knife and ruler approach. I think there is a disc that enables the cutting of plastics; does anyone have experience of using this sort of tool for cutting plastics? 

[Mike Storey]

Have you read this?  https://www.proxxon.com/en/micromot/27006.php

 

It would suggest a max of 8mm thickness, so would struggle with half inch wood.

 

It shows which blades are meant for plastics cutting too.

[timbowilts]

Depending on what tolerance you have for accuracy you could always make one pass of your 1/2 inch piece and then turn it over and make another pass? This assumes that you are using the fence and keep the same edge against it :<)

 

Tim T

[MikeH_83]

Will the accuracy of the proxxon be good enough to cut sleepers for my trackwork out of ply? It's between this or buying laser cut and trimming them down by hand

[Fettster42]

Thanks for the feedback. Its on my list of things dad should buy me for Christmas that he will use as much as I do, so as long as I have been good this year I can see how it works in th

[milocomarty]

http://www.axminster.co.uk/proxxon-fet-table-saw-210576

 

way better, more expensive too..

[Vecchio]

http://www.axminster.co.uk/proxxon-fet-table-saw-210576

 

way better, more expensive too..

I absolutely agree. This model has adjustable cutting depth and a blade which can be tilted up to 45 degrees. The cutting depth is higher and the motor is stronger. I have the older sister of the linked model, called FKS, which is the same size and spec but more difficult to clean. This is the most important tool in my workshop and if it would break I would buy it again immediately.

To speak about robustness: I even cut the wooden floor boards of my house with it - the cut is so clean that it looks like you have used a planer (of course only if the blade is sharp)

These were70 square metres of engineered oak flooring - a new blade after this work and the saw is as good as new. Have if for more than 10 years.

[gordon s]

I've had a KS230 for years now and it's the best £100 I ever spent. I set up a small label gauge to one side for cutting PCB sleepers and it cuts cleanly and accurately every time. It's perfect for cutting plastics and many other materials, so nothing but positives from me.

 

Just noticed this pic has the parallel guide in place.  To cut sleepers you need the protractor guide that is part of the kit.

 

Edited December 13, 2017 by gordon s

[tender]

I've had a KS230 for years now and it's the best £100 I ever spent. I set up a small label gauge to one side for cutting PCB sleepers and it cuts cleanly and accurately every time. It's perfect for cutting plastics and many other materials, so nothing but positives from me.

 

Just noticed this pic has the parallel guide in place.  To cut sleepers you need the protractor guide that is part of the kit.

 

DSCF8357.jpg

Gordon, what saw blade do you use to cut PCB. I tried it with the blade the machine came with but it didn't last very long.

[Podhunter]

The original post raises a good question about the products suitability for modellers mechanical cutting.

Read about others using the Silhouette Cameo cutter for modelling.

[gordon s]

Gordon, what saw blade do you use to cut PCB. I tried it with the blade the machine came with but it didn't last very long.

 

Just checked and I'm using the 28 020 blade.  I'm cutting 4mm x 1mm pub strips to length.  The key is to ensure the strip is held firm against the deck or it can occasionally make a noise as though the blade is snatching.  That can leave a whisker of copper, but that's easily removed with a finger nail.  I've been using the same blade for months now, but that doesn't mean anything.  In usage terms there are possible 30+ sleepers in a C10 turnout and I've built way over a 100 in that time.

 

I'm guessing the 28 011 blade will be equally suitable.

 

 

Edit:  I really should get my eyes tested, as having now looked right up close the size is 50 x 0.56 which doesn't tie up with any of those shown above.  I suspect it's still the 28 020 but an earlier version.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited December 13, 2017 by gordon s

[Vecchio]

A tungsten blade is the best for PCB board. The important thing is to buy an old fashioned paper-resin based PCB and not an FRP type - the latter has glass rovings inside which kill the sawblade.

[gordon s]

I'm cutting double sided 1mm thick fibre glass pcb strip 4mm wide without a problem and have been for several months with the blade above.  I agree you will kill a normal blade, but choose the right one for the job and you won't have a problem.

[Gordon A]

I have been very happy with mine.

I don't think it will cut 1/2", the spec talks about 8mm. 

 

Gordon A

[Giles]

I have one in my armoury, and i findbit extremely useful. I usually run a piece of thin ply or MDF most of the way through and then tape it down. This then fully supports the work piece that you are cutting, and prevents 'break-out' out bending. I also use mine for cutting brass and nickel-silver - which it does very well.