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BR/WR Siphon G diagram O.62 in 4mm scale


macgeordie
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Ian, in one of your posts you mention that you have mastered the art of rolling your own gwr roofs. Please share your method for cowards such as myself who fail every attempt.

 

TIA, Tim T

Hi Tim,  I've just spotted your post, my apologies for not responding sooner. I made a jig / tool to form the roof sections based upon a sketch given to me by Dave Smith who used to be the proprietor of Mallard Models and was also associated with Blacksmith models. His tooling was made from steel but I made mine from wood as I didn't have any facilities to make a steel one. It is basically two rolling bars attached to a base. Obviously a wooden one won't be capable of rolling as many roofs as a steel one but I'm not planning on doing dozens of them. I'll post a few photos of the tool I made tomorrow. The tool is in the garage and it is too dark now to photograph it.

 

Ian

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Ian, in one of your posts you mention that you have mastered the art of rolling your own gwr roofs. Please share your method for cowards such as myself who fail every attempt.

 

TIA, Tim T

 

Hi Tim

 

This is the simple jig I made to bend the roof form. It is basically just two quarter round profiles, one 6mm radius and the other 10mm radius. It doesn't look much, but it works and that is the name of the game.

 

You roll the 10mm radius first after fitting the brass into the tight fitting slot by sitting a piece of 2" x 1" behind it and rolling it over the former to about an angle of 60 degrees. Take it out and repeat the procedure for the 6mm radius but only bending to about 45 degrees. When both edges have been done (the metal in the photos is just a bit of scrap fret) the centre section needs to be pressed down onto a piece of dowel or piping about 50mm in diameter to introduce a gentle curve at the centre. The final shape can easily be adjusted by manipulating the metal between your fingers to get a perfect fit.

 

post-6711-0-59568600-1517496024_thumb.jpg

 

post-6711-0-81212300-1517496062_thumb.jpg

 

post-6711-0-10305300-1517496085_thumb.jpg

 

It looks more difficult than it is to form the shape.

 

I've done quite a bit of work on the latest test build and so far everything has gone well. Tim has picked up on a couple of small items so I will amend the drawings and get new tools made before I make the kit available to forum members. I should get the build I am working finished next week, so I'll post some photos then. I'm exhibiting at Stafford this weekend so won't get anything done on the van this weekend.

 

Ian

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This test build has gone well, there are a couple of minor niggles which I will rectify but other than that this model is finished except for fitting the buffers which I will do later today.

 

post-6711-0-72619900-1518189693_thumb.jpg

 

A number of members have asked for this kit, so for those that are interested, please pm me for details. I will probably be placing an order with the etchers next weekend so please contact me before then. I will offer this as either 'etches only' or as a full kit because there are a lot of additional items needed, particularly castings to make the full kit which adds to the cost and some members (particularly those interested in the GWR or WR BR) may well have many of the parts already in stock.

 

Ian

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I fitted the buffers yesterday, they are MJT sprung ones and the springs are tiny. I decided to put the springs onto a piece of double sided tape ready to be picked up by the buffer shank so I didn't loose them.

 

post-6711-0-47409500-1518351169_thumb.jpg

 

I also added a representation of the Dynamo drive belt made from a bit of scrap fret. There is a piece conveniently the correct size next to the rain strips on fret 1.

 

post-6711-0-04685800-1518351303_thumb.jpg

 

post-6711-0-27089700-1518351325_thumb.jpg

 

The list of members who have requested a kit is filling up nicely, so thanks to those members for your support.

 

Ian

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Ian

 

What chance is there of scaling up the etches to 7mm. scale? No need to provide any castings, bogies etc. as they are freely available in O Scale. As far as I know, there isn't a kit available for the vertically planked G. 

 

Jeff

Hi Jeff

 

I've only done two 0 gauge wagons so far and neither of them created enough sales to even cover the tooling costs so I'm not prepared to try yet another one at this stage. Scaling up the drawings isn't as easy as you might think because all the fold lines end up too wide, holes and half etched holes for rivets end up too large and it is a big job changing everything. 

 

It's even getting to the stage where it is almost pointless doing a kit in 4mm scale these days, the last two wagon kits I have done had the same wagon announced by the rtr guys within weeks of the kit coming out so it was hardly worth the effort.

 

Ian

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It's even getting to the stage where it is almost pointless doing a kit in 4mm scale these days, the last two wagon kits I have done had the same wagon announced by the rtr guys within weeks of the kit coming out so it was hardly worth the effort.

 

Ian

It's getting that way, for wagons, in 7mm now but, as there are no inside framed Siphon G's available in etched brass would it not be worth, at least. canvassing the likely demand?  I'd certainly have one.

Ray.

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Hi Ray

 

To cover the cost of tooling I would need to sell at least 20 sets of etches, if you can find that many people who want a set I'll consider it. I have one more 4mm project in the pipeline and after that I'm seriously considering packing in producing kits altogether unless it is something I specifically want for my own layout..

 

Ian

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.....It's even getting to the stage where it is almost pointless doing a kit in 4mm scale these days, the last two wagon kits I have done had the same wagon announced by the rtr guys within weeks of the kit coming out....

They may well have come across your kit and decided they wanted some of the action for themselves....

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To cover the cost of tooling I would need to sell at least 20 sets of etches, if you can find that many people who want a set I'll consider it.

 

Would that apply if I was to ask about an earlier plain sided version in 4mm?

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Would that apply if I was to ask about an earlier plain sided version in 4mm?

That depends, which one? there is at least one (ex Lima) rtr version available already as well as rtr versions most of the outside framed ones. 

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That depends, which one? there is at least one (ex Lima) rtr version available already as well as rtr versions most of the outside framed ones. 

 

To keep things simple, I was thinking Diagram O.33, which as far as I can tell is identical bodywise to the O.62 but without the sliding vents. I know of all the rtr version (I have all 3 variants) but this kit looks far superior.

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To keep things simple, I was thinking Diagram O.33, which as far as I can tell is identical bodywise to the O.62 but without the sliding vents. I know of all the rtr version (I have all 3 variants) but this kit looks far superior.

Yes it is very similar and I will look at it when I have got the other projects out of the way. I assume the O.62 is 'out of period' for you.

If any members feel the diagram O.33 would be of interest to them please tick the 'informative/useful' box for this post so I can judge whether there is sufficient interest before I go to a lot of additional effort.

 

Ian

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I assume the O.62 is 'out of period' for you.

 

Unfortunately, yes. I'm modelling pre-WWII GWR, otherwise I would have snapped your hand off for one of the O.62 kits. Thanks for not ruling an O.33 out completely, I understand your constraints. :)

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Aargh, just realised a fundamental flaw in my simplistic thinking!  The early lots for O33 had DC brake gear/handles. Not sure now many changes would be required to the underframe for this. :( My original idea for producing this is that it would have been a simple tweak on the CAD to remove the sliding vents form the sides to produce the new Diag. I had not intended for completely new parts to have to be created.

 

Lot 1664 of 1994/1945 build dates appear to have the same lever brake so could be ok as is. From the diagram on page 62 of Slinn/Clarke it looks like it may be a fairly simple conversion to DC gear using DC brake gear etches from other sources but would need the exact layout confirming.

Edited by 57xx
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