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Layout Design Suggestions


ChrisAdams
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Hello, I would love some feedback on a layout I have come up with. Its mainly based on a free track plan I found online however there wasn't any reference to the track pieces used so I only had the basic shape to go on. This is my first post and also my first attempt at a model railway since helping my Dad out on his many years ago! After reading quite a lot on RMWeb I have re-designed this switching everything from Peco Setrack over to Streamline, which was rather time consuming... hopefully that was the right decision.

 

The aim of the layout is to be able to have an express running round the outer track and a branch line/shutting operations on the inside section. What I would like to know is whether it is practical as a layout or whether some parts would be better suited laid out differently. I appreciate this is quite a broad question to ask but any feedback you can offer would be much appreciated before I go and purchase anything.

 

The base board is 2440x1220mm, the minimum radius used is 438mm. Most of the locos and rolling stock I will use are GWR, this will probably be the theme I continue with due to having lots of it in the attic from my younger years.

 

post-31746-0-14868300-1514817943_thumb.jpg

 

Thanks in advance

 

Chris

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Hi Chris,

 

Are you intending this to be a trainset for playing or a more serious model layout? There's nothing wrong with a trainset - it just makes a difference to the feedback you will get about the design.

 

A single board like that is the obvious way to pack a layout onto the simplest baseboard but it would be very heavy, very delicate and virtually unmovable once constructed. And if you don't have an access hole somewhere in the centre then you need to have access from all four sides for modelling and dealing with running problems.

 

Probably better to break the baseboard into smaller (thinner) sections that are joined together either permanently or in a way that allows them to be disconnected and moved. Then you can reach across to the back of each board and that allows you to place them against the walls of a room to make better use of the space. (This is the ancient accepted wisdom of the hobby.)

 

The inner self-crossing loop looks artificial, even for a trainset!

 

The ratio of express running to branchline running looks unbalanced to me - a lot of branch line sidings but not much for the express traffic to do except run around.

 

There doesn't seem to be room on the outer loop for any station platforms - so no reason for an express train to ever stop! (Obviously, your train could just stop anywhere but it will feel unsatisfying without a real reason and a real destination.)

 

Trains headed up by steam locos that leave the branchline to run on the outer loop will eventually have to reverse back into the branch terminus. That's OK for very short trains but not for express traffic. (Unless you're happy to pick the loco up and turn it while it's on the outer loop... Or you could send out a pilot loco to fetch the train back into the branch, I suppose.)

 

Sorry Chris, I know that sounds like a lot of criticism but I'm just pointing out the things that occur to me. The important thing is to satisfy yourself, whatever anybody else says.

 

Edit: If you've got old locos and rolling stock there are two things to bear in mind:

  1. Check that it will run on modern track properly. The wheel flanges on old models were quite coarse compared to modern standards. That shouldn't be a problem if you stick to Code 100 Streamline track.
  2. If you're interested in DCC some old locos can be difficult to adapt because of the way their chassis were manufactured.

 

Edited by Harlequin
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Hi Phil

 

Thanks for the comments, so I won't keep posting every change I make but I would like to be on the right track at least... taking what you said about 1 large board into consideration I have come up with the below. I'm not happy with the bottom set of sidings, I will try and make that area less busy. I doubt I will purchase all the track at once so that part will be a work in progress I think

 

post-31746-0-51877600-1514847207_thumb.jpg

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I would go for something basically Set Track except the terminus station and the sidings which should be Peco Streamline to keep the width to a minimum . CJ Freezer did some brilliant ones but rather than plagiarise one of his I suggest  Terminus, Continuous Run and return loop which will need a bit of thought to wire up. 

Couple of hidden sidings.   See Pic . Just turn a blind eye to the train appearing from the back of the goods yard when using te reversing loop and it should give some some realistic operating potential and could be mad to look half decent.

 

Edit.  Is the size now 8 X 5 with an operating well?

post-21665-0-62996400-1514851546_thumb.png

Edited by DavidCBroad
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Hi Phil

 

Thanks for the comments, so I won't keep posting every change I make but I would like to be on the right track at least... taking what you said about 1 large board into consideration I have come up with the below. I'm not happy with the bottom set of sidings, I will try and make that area less busy. I doubt I will purchase all the track at once so that part will be a work in progress I think

 

attachicon.gifNew Layout.jpg

Yep, you are on the right track. I would suggest various improvements that you could make but first things first: Are you prepared to build baseboards around the perimeter of a room? That's quite a big step from a 4ft*8ft board. If so, that's great because you'll get a much better model! Then you need to measure the proposed room and the positions of doors, windows and other features because that info will play a huge part in the design of your layout.

 

As David said, the track plans books by C J Freezer are full of interesting designs (including 4ft*8ft boards!), they are inexpensive and are a great read if you're into track plans (like me).

 

Many of Freezer's plans manage to squeeze a very useful reversing loop into small spaces, like David's plan. That's a tricky design challenge because they take up a lot of space and tend to cut the space in half on smaller layouts.

 

I would go for something basically Set Track except the terminus station and the sidings which should be Peco Streamline to keep the width to a minimum . CJ Freezer did some brilliant ones but rather than plagiarise one of his I suggest  Terminus, Continuous Run and return loop which will need a bit of thought to wire up. 

Couple of hidden sidings.   See Pic . Just turn a blind eye to the train appearing from the back of the goods yard when using te reversing loop and it should give some some realistic operating potential and could be mad to look half decent.

Wouldn't access to the fiddle yard between the backscenes be a problem?

 

If using DCC then wiring up a reversing loop (Edit: using an "Auto-reverser") is almost trivial and should be a fit-and-forget solution, if done properly. (No need to stop trains while you manually switch polarity, like you usually need to with DC control.)

Edited by Harlequin
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The idea behind having a single based board was due to being in rented accommodation. I preferably would like something that I can just pick up and move relatively easily without too much deconstruction. Also it be small enough to fit into most garages etc.

 

I hadn’t considered the fact that I wouldn’t be able to reach the back of the board I have. I got a bit carried away with the size of my previous post!

 

As much as I would love to build a larger layout I think, for the time being at least, I will have to limit myself to the single board. I will look into the CJ Freezer designs, perhaps I’m trying to make things too complicated and cram too much into a small space.

 

It may be best to cut an access hole in my existing board to reach the back edges. This could even perhaps be where I do all the controlling from aswell

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The idea behind having a single based board was due to being in rented accommodation. I preferably would like something that I can just pick up and move relatively easily without too much deconstruction. Also it be small enough to fit into most garages etc.

I think you have the idea of that the wrong way around. I built my layout in sections because it can be broken up & re-assembled should I ever want to move house. Moving a complete 8x4 layout in 1 piece would be very difficult. It would be very heavy & prone to damage.

Who knows what your next house will be like?

You can't get a complete 8x4 layout through a loft hatch & you usually have to turn a corner after climbing the stairs.

I never intend to take my layout to a show but it is made in sections anyway for 2 reasons:

1. If I ever need to move house, the layout can be broken into its sections & re-assembled. I can make end boards so the scenery faces inwards, which will protect it.

2. I can turn the boards onto their side or upside down in order to wire them. Working under the layout is very painful on your back.

 

Some general advice for first layouts is to keep it as simple as possible. It is very rewarding to run a train but experience generates patience. It took me about a year of work before I could run anything on mine. There is no way I could have waited this long if I had not built layouts before.

The return loop mentioned above is a complication I would try to avoid if possible.

 

You won't regret using streamline instead of setrack. A nice smooth curve is much more pleasing on the eye than heading down a straight then suddenly being whipped around a corner.

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Here's a simple way to slice up a 1220*2440 (4ft*8ft) sheet so that each piece is then much easier to move and set up wherever you want:

post-32492-0-03376000-1514889872_thumb.png

 

There are lots of other good permutations, of course, and if you're making smaller connected boards like this you don't have to limit yourself to one 2440*1220 sheet - use as much material as you need to get the design you want.

Edited by Harlequin
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