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#1 roythebus

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 16:19

Has anyone tried the DCConcepts phospher bronze bullhead fishplates yet? I've tried the C&L solder-on etched brass ones with some success, but find they're difficult to use and get them even each side of the rail and they tend to break with expansion and contraction.

 

With the C&L insulated fishplates, I have the same sort of problem with the glue-on each side of the rail variety. Their other type with the plastic web between are far easier to use but not ideal.

 

Another thing the new owner of C&L might wish to address is the track gauges made of steel, all very nice but mine have gone rusty, not very helpful for accuracy when I have to use an abrasive to get rid of the rust. Brass would be far better. 





#2 gordon s

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 16:52

Can't help you with the first part of your posting, but I've had C & L steel gauges for at least 10 years and there's no sign of rust.  I'm not saying they don't rust, but suspect warm, dry conditions go a long way to keeping them rust free.



#3 hayfield

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 17:39

Has anyone tried the DCConcepts phospher bronze bullhead fishplates yet? I've tried the C&L solder-on etched brass ones with some success, but find they're difficult to use and get them even each side of the rail and they tend to break with expansion and contraction.

 

With the C&L insulated fishplates, I have the same sort of problem with the glue-on each side of the rail variety. Their other type with the plastic web between are far easier to use but not ideal.

 

Another thing the new owner of C&L might wish to address is the track gauges made of steel, all very nice but mine have gone rusty, not very helpful for accuracy when I have to use an abrasive to get rid of the rust. Brass would be far better. 

 

 

C&L also sell the Exactoscale range of fishplates, one piece plastic and brass which slide on to the web in the rail. Whilst being very fragile yje plastic ones are stromg enough to hold the rails in line whilst the glue is setting, both look supurb

 

The plastic ones are E4XX FP01 pack of 48 for £13

The cast brass ones E4XX FP11  pack of 12 fior £9.50

 

Link

http://www.finescale...ath=346_347_349

 

I only use the etched ones when I cut the head of the rail and solder the etches ones under it to represent a rail joint rather than join the rails



#4 Rob Curnow

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 22:16

 

Another thing the new owner of C&L might wish to address is the track gauges made of steel, all very nice but mine have gone rusty, not very helpful for accuracy when I have to use an abrasive to get rid of the rust. Brass would be far better. 

Is it possible that the corrosion is being caused by flux residues from your soldering?  



#5 roythebus

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 23:38

Is it possible that the corrosion is being caused by flux residues from your soldering?  

 

No, the 3 point steel gauge has rusted as well, nowhere near any flux! My railway room is in the garden, brick built and heated, so I doubt excess damp is the cause.

 

Hayfield, I've used the Exactoscale plastic fishplates and found them ok, but try getting any response from C&L these days... I really need to place quite a big order with him as soon as possible!

 

I ordered from DCC on Wednesday and the stuff arrived this morning (Thursday)!


Edited by roythebus, 04 January 2018 - 23:39 .


#6 Grovenor

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Posted 04 January 2018 - 23:51

Has anyone tried the DCConcepts phospher bronze bullhead fishplates yet?

No, since they have 6 bolt heads which looks completely wrong for bullhead. However Peco now do proper 4 bolt fishplates for their bullhead track which look good and are an excellent fit on code 75 bullhead rail. i would recommend these.

DSCF2181.JPG In packet

SL-114-2.jpg compared to etched plates

SL-114-3.jpg on C&L track

Regards


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#7 roythebus

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 10:19

Thanks for that Keith, I had thought of the Peco b/h fishplates but haven't seen any around yet, but then with the lack of model shops.. Do they sell insulates ones as well? 


Edited by roythebus, 05 January 2018 - 10:19 .


#8 Grovenor

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 11:44

I've not seen or heard of insulated ones so far, but the C&L ones are OK for that, but do need careful handling.

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#9 MikeH_83

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 12:43

I know those peco joiners don't have a complete prototypical look with that bulge at the bottom which grips the track but at least it's very good at keeping the track aligned. Can't decide between that or the plastic one's myself!

#10 Grovenor

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 13:06

I know those peco joiners don't have a complete prototypical look with that bulge at the bottom which grips the track but at least it's very good at keeping the track aligned. Can't decide between that or the plastic one's myself!

There were fishplates for bull head track that had extra section at the bottom to increase the stiffness, known as skirted fishplates, the bulge does look very similar to these. Which makes it acceptable to my eyes.
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#11 MikeH_83

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 16:21

There were fishplates for bull head track that had extra section at the bottom to increase the stiffness, known as skirted fishplates, the bulge does look very similar to these. Which makes it acceptable to my eyes.
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Oh that I didn't know..  I might just use these then :)  Makes things easier.  Thanks



#12 roythebus

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Posted 05 January 2018 - 17:35

LT use them a lot, not the Peco ones but real ones with the bit at the bottom, so did BR. :) 

 

They use insulated fishplates as well at block joints.