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Adding a check rail to RTR bullhead track





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#1 Pete 75C

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 08:45

Apologies if this is in the wrong section, as I guess the question crosses a fine line between handbuilt track and ready to lay.

 

I need to add a very short length of check rail to Peco's new Code 75 bullhead flexi track and was wondering what would be the best (easiest?) way to do this.

The solution that immediately occurs to me is as follows...

Using a scalpel blade, remove the chairs from one side of the flexi track and then with the help of a gauge, glue Exactoscale check rail chairs in place for the required length.

This in itself raises a couple of questions. If this is the easiest solution, what would be the best glue to use to bond the new chairs to the existing plastic sleepers? Also, bearing in mind that the curve will be in the region of 800mm radius, is there anything I need to be careful of with regard to setting the gauge?

Also, if there is another way of doing this, I'd be delighted to know.

 

For reference, the model will hope to recreate this...

 

example.jpg

 

The check rail is visible for a very short distance before the tunnel mouth and the effect will need to continue for approx. 200-300mm inside the tunnel.





#2 Merfyn Jones

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 12:22

Apologies if this is in the wrong section, as I guess the question crosses a fine line between handbuilt track and ready to lay.

 

I need to add a very short length of check rail to Peco's new Code 75 bullhead flexi track and was wondering what would be the best (easiest?) way to do this.

The solution that immediately occurs to me is as follows...

Using a scalpel blade, remove the chairs from one side of the flexi track and then with the help of a gauge, glue Exactoscale check rail chairs in place for the required length.

This in itself raises a couple of questions. If this is the easiest solution, what would be the best glue to use to bond the new chairs to the existing plastic sleepers? Also, bearing in mind that the curve will be in the region of 800mm radius, is there anything I need to be careful of with regard to setting the gauge?

Also, if there is another way of doing this, I'd be delighted to know.

 

For reference, the model will hope to recreate this...

 

attachicon.gifexample.jpg

 

The check rail is visible for a very short distance before the tunnel mouth and the effect will need to continue for approx. 200-300mm inside the tunnel.

 

I have done it with the new Peco bullhead as follows.  Remove the inner half of the Peco chair about one in 3 sleepers. Thread C&L chairs along a length of bullhead rail to sleeper spacing (aprox) A little of the chair needs removing to get the guage set correctly.

The problem then cane in fixing the chairs to the sleepers. Mek didn't work, or Plas Weld, or super glue. But I found a new style stuff in the hardware shop consists of a drop of glue where the chair goes, followed by shining a blue light from the accompanying torch for about 5 seconds. Seems to work well.

 

 

2-10-2017  (6).JPG

 

Sorry, only photo I have showing it.


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#3 roythebus

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 12:34

Using C&L check rail chairs may be a bit tight to flangeway gap, depends what wheel standards you are using. For unmodified out of the box wheels you'd need at least 1mm I suspect.


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#4 Pete 75C

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 12:41

The problem then cane in fixing the chairs to the sleepers...

 

Thanks - that was certainly a concern. The plastic web of the flexitrack would appear to be a similar kind of "slippery" plastic to the previous flatbottom Streamline - notoriously difficult to glue.

 

Using C&L check rail chairs may be a bit tight to flangeway gap, depends what wheel standards you are using. For unmodified out of the box wheels you'd need at least 1mm I suspect.

 

Exactoscale is quoted as a 0.8mm flangeway. I'm certainly not planning on running any vintage stock. As you say, it still might be a bit much for even the more modern RTR wheels. As Merfyn says (above), a second chair might be the best bet, just to give a little more leeway for the flanges.



#5 hayfield

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 12:59

Whilst this may seem a bit drastic, buy a length of C&L thick sleeper 00 gauge track, at the same time buy a packet of the Exactoscale E4CH 403A 0.8 flangeway check rail chairs.

 

On the flexitrack cut away the inside chair, thread the check chairs on to the check rail, then cut the outside part of the check rail chair off leaving the spacer, you can then glue the check rail chairs on with normal solvent. Depending on the sharpness of the radii, it might be worth leaving a sliver of the inside chair of the flexitrack both to keep the stock rail in place and give a bit of a filler piece


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#6 russ p

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 13:24

Looking forward to seeing this layout Pete is it one that you are going to sell once you've finished it?

#7 The Bigbee Line

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 13:41

Bending the rail beforehand might help stop it springing out of place.  I have a Fasttracks Rail Bended, https://www.handlaidtrack.com/tl-0004 not cheap, but effective.  Great for FB rail.  Bullhead could be bent using three stout nails in the manner of the rollers on the rail bender..

TL-0004-4.jpg


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#8 Pete 75C

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 13:46

Looking forward to seeing this layout Pete is it one that you are going to sell once you've finished it?

 

Hi Russ. I don't have room to build anything at the moment, so this is just in the planning stages. I have managed to find room to lay out the ply and I've just printed out the full plan 1/1 scale. Hoping to pin a few bullhead turnouts to the template and have a little play...

I'd be happy to get the boards built, track laid and ballasted before the big move, and then sling it in the van and take it with me on the epic road trip.

All of the above subject to change, you know me...


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#9 Pete 75C

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 13:51

Bending the rail beforehand might help stop it springing out of place.

 

Thanks for the link, Ernie. Just had a look at the video and it's impressive. Being a notorious tightwad, I may adopt the "three nails" method.



#10 dhjgreen

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Posted 06 January 2018 - 16:49

 ...I found a new style stuff in the hardware shop consists of a drop of glue where the chair goes, followed by shining a blue light from the accompanying torch for about 5 seconds. Seems to work well....

Brilliant, I can think of a lot of uses for this type of glue, now ordered; £2 from China, £4 UK sourced.

Good old RMWeb, again!