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My/our coach, carriage & wagon scratch building thread


gobbler
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Couple of updates:-

The GER passenger rated cattle van. Still getting the roof right.

post-2873-0-78035000-1520288517_thumb.jpg

 

The milk/luggage van. Have made the vac pipes with some guitar string. Found some oval buffers for the ends. These are not 100% correct, but I think they'll do.

post-2873-0-08339500-1520288665_thumb.jpg

 

Lastly.......what's up next??? ...........well one of these.....

post-2873-0-44914200-1520288731_thumb.jpg

A four wheel full brake.

 

Also on the back burner a GER horse box.

 

TTFN

 

Scott

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Scott

I assume the 4 wheel van is the Gresley Dia120. That being the case I think you have an error in your marking out. The sides are not mirrored but when viewed from the side, the double doors with the guards door should be on the viewers left. The way you have it, the top side in your pic is the wrong way round. I hope this is in time to stop a lot of wasted work, as it is you could just turn it over and continue your marking out on the reverse side.

Not meaning to criticise just trying to help.

Best wishes

Bob

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Ah.....Bob,

 

Thank you for your interjection, any comments are always welcome. this is the inside of the vehicle, also I haven't scribed the tumblehome bend lines on this surface yet.

 

I'm having trouble with the guards door window for some reason.

 

I know one side only has the 'ducket'. when the model is put together the guard door are at opposite ends with the door and it's vent on the inner of the two doors. I'm convinced I've got the right, but I will bow to you sir if you turn out to be correct.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

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Ah.....Bob,

Thank you for your interjection, any comments are always welcome. this is the inside of the vehicle, also I haven't scribed the tumblehome bend lines on this surface yet.

I'm having trouble with the guards door window for some reason.

I know one side only has the 'ducket'. when the model is put together the guard door are at opposite ends with the door and it's vent on the inner of the two doors. I'm convinced I've got the right, but I will bow to you sir if you turn out to be correct.

Cheers

Scott

No bowing needed, if it’s inside faces marked out then when set up the doors will be correct ie not opposite each other.

Btw, I had another look at the SCV and yes there seems to be no brake shoes showing in either pic but a full set of 2 shoes per wheel on the drawing. PB’s photo shows a vac pipe so I guess the van was through piped in later years.

Enjoying all your builds

Bob

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Scott,

 

Brilliant models, I do admire the scratch building I see around - just wish I could. Whilst I can handle civil engineering, railway vehicles never seem to turn out correct.

 

As to warping plastic I tend to use Phoenix Precision adhesive, do not seem to have to use as much as some other Brands. Evergreen seems softer and therefore easier to cut, but still use Slaters products - especially their embossed sheets.

 

With regard to cutting plasticard, there are a couple of Models in The Chopper range, these are used by aviation and maritime plastic modellers. Not Cheap - mid £50

 

Regards

 

Ken

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Scott,

Brilliant models, I do admire the scratch building I see around - just wish I could. Whilst I can handle civil engineering, railway vehicles never seem to turn out correct.

As to warping plastic I tend to use Phoenix Precision adhesive, do not seem to have to use as much as some other Brands. Evergreen seems softer and therefore easier to cut, but still use Slaters products - especially their embossed sheets.

With regard to cutting plasticard, there are a couple of Models in The Chopper range, these are used by aviation and maritime plastic modellers. Not Cheap - mid £50

Regards

Ken

 

Do all mine by hand with a square, steel rule, vernier and my favourite 10A scalpel blades

 

Plastic I use is mainly slaters

 

 

Cheers

 

Scott

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Forgot to add this to my builds, a GER 20ft horse box.

post-2873-0-81759100-1520359488_thumb.jpg

post-2873-0-34108800-1520359537_thumb.jpg

 

I'm going to be using this to see if I can make some 'W' irons for the wheels. A bit of a test bed and if successful I will employ the method to my 4W dia 120 full brake and cattle wagon.

 

Cheers

 

Scott

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Scott, are you using your favourite thickness of styrene for these?

Tim T

 

Yep 0.75mm

 

Should they flex too much I have a cunning plan, a plan so cunning, you could pin a tail on it and call it a fox. (Love Black Adder) well brass wire to tell the truth bent to go from inside W iron along the floor and down the other W iron.

 

TTFN

 

Scott

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Well the good news......

 

There's no wobble on the rails and the irons appear to be nice and firm. When axle boxes and springs are on that should help with the sturdiness as well.

 

Only one visible problem........the ride height, when compared to the milk/luggage van and the Clerestory, as shown below.

post-2873-0-85492600-1520461552_thumb.jpg

 

Any ideas anyone???

 

Scott

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Well the good news......

 

There's no wobble on the rails and the irons appear to be nice and firm. When axle boxes and springs are on that should help with the sturdiness as well.

 

Only one visible problem........the ride height, when compared to the milk/luggage van and the Clerestory, as shown below.

attachicon.gifIMG_8041.JPG

 

Any ideas anyone???

 

Scott

How high does your other stock sit? It may be worth looking at them and making the appropriate adjustments.

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Cheers Peter & DoubleDecker

 

Most buffer heights should be a scale 14mm-ish from rail top to buffer centre. I'll admit I've only just found that info on scalefourum this evening. will check the buffer heights tomorrow night.

 

Even with the prototypes, there are some discrepancies in buffer heights.

 

TTFN

 

Scott

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Cheers Peter & DoubleDecker

 

Most buffer heights should be a scale 14mm-ish from rail top to buffer centre. I'll admit I've only just found that info on scalefourum this evening. will check the buffer heights tomorrow night.

 

Even with the prototypes, there are some discrepancies in buffer heights.

 

TTFN

 

Scott

If it's prototypical then it goes I guess!

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Well the good news......

There's no wobble on the rails and the irons appear to be nice and firm. When axle boxes and springs are on that should help with the sturdiness as well.

Only one visible problem........the ride height, when compared to the milk/luggage van and the Clerestory, as shown below.

attachicon.gifIMG_8041.JPG

Any ideas anyone???

Scott[/quote

Hi Scott

I assume you are using 3’7” wheels under the horse box as per prototype, if not, 3’1” wagon wheels would explain the difference.

Bob

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If it's prototypical then it goes I guess!

There was slight variation but not as much as I've got.

 

I'm using 14.mm Bachmann coach wheels on all three vehicles in the shot.

 

Thanks chaps

 

Scott

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Cheers Peter & DoubleDecker

 

Most buffer heights should be a scale 14mm-ish from rail top to buffer centre. I'll admit I've only just found that info on scalefourum this evening. will check the buffer heights tomorrow night.

 

Even with the prototypes, there are some discrepancies in buffer heights.

 

TTFN

 

Scott

Gobbler......you modelling is superb.

 

Mike

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Hopefully disaster averted

 

Made myself a quick 14mm high gauge

post-2873-0-22852100-1520539153_thumb.jpg

 

My CCT was riding low according to my gauge and the milk/luggage was riding high. I noticed the wheels were smaller on the CCT so I swapped them over with the M/L van

post-2873-0-62384500-1520539365_thumb.jpg

post-2873-0-19379900-1520539396_thumb.jpg

 

Your thoughts?????

 

Scott

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Coming on very nicely. The jig for ensuring a consistent height seems a very sensible idea!

 

Two venerable magazines arrived in Chéz Seagull today, MRC December 1971 with a couple of drawings of coach sides (sides only - I suspect ends were in the first part of the article which I am now looking for!), albeit rather obscure (6 produced between them!) prototypes, and, more promisingly, RM October 1970, which has a very comprehensive article on scratchbuilding an LBSCR Van. It's the latter I will start with - packet of 30 thou plasticard should hopefully arrive by the weekend.

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Coming on very nicely. The jig for ensuring a consistent height seems a very sensible idea!

 

Two venerable magazines arrived in Chéz Seagull today, MRC December 1971 with a couple of drawings of coach sides (sides only - I suspect ends were in the first part of the article which I am now looking for!), albeit rather obscure (6 produced between them!) prototypes, and, more promisingly, RM October 1970, which has a very comprehensive article on scratchbuilding an LBSCR Van. It's the latter I will start with - packet of 30 thou plasticard should hopefully arrive by the weekend.

Can't wait to see how you progress

 

Either post your doings here or a link to your own thread

 

Cheers

 

Scott

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Slightly off topic

 

The Hornby n2.......

 

What are the driving wheel centres and the wheel diameters ?

 

What would be the driving wheel centres and diameters be for an F4 / F5?

 

Can you see where I'm going with this?

 

Scott

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Slightly off topic

The Hornby n2.......

What are the driving wheel centres and the wheel diameters ?

What would be the driving wheel centres and diameters be for an F4 / F5?

Can you see where I'm going with this?

Scott

You're going to make a 0-6-2 version of the F4/F5?

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Slightly off topic

The Hornby n2.......

What are the driving wheel centres and the wheel diameters ?

What would be the driving wheel centres and diameters be for an F4 / F5?

Can you see where I'm going with this?

Scott

https://www.gersociety.org.uk/index.php/home/sales/files-emporium-2/product/64-lg004-ger-lner-2-4-2-tank-locos

£3.

 

N2 drivers were 5’8”

F4/5 were 5’4”

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