gobbler Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 I've recently asked the GERS about carriage drawings (in my case 54' suburbans) and they said they don't have much but the NRM has some. The drawings you have there - where are they from please? Nick Camplings Vol 1 LNER and constituents I'd recommend it Scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 Done a bit more As I mentioned in my first post other stuff that you may require or like to use may crop up. Well this time it is 'Squadron Green' putty, it's similar to the Humbrol grey. Another putty I use is milliput white/white (fine). Where the radii are at the ends of the coach I have made multiple scores to help it curve properly. This needs to be reinforced, because I'll be sanding down the ends to get the curve closer to the correct radius. Scott 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 (edited) Whilst looking for my squadron green I came across some 'Ratio' seating, so I've added that too. Next job tackling the door windows. Thanks for looking Scott Edited January 13, 2018 by gobbler 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 The first 2 of 18. Not too sad. I've stuck some 0.3mm behind the window and cut it freehand. I think they'll look ok, but we'll see Keep watching Scott 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted January 13, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 13, 2018 Nick Camplings Vol 1 LNER and constituents I'd recommend it Scott Great thanks Thought I had all the LNER coach books but I guess not! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 13, 2018 Share Posted January 13, 2018 (edited) I haven't read or seen Mr Jenkinson's book so I can't comment on how he does stuff. But if your an 'O' modeller I reckon your going to have to thicken everything up What is your scale and regional interest by the way? P.S cutting out windows isn't that bad. You might find cutting them smaller and then filing to the line easier. I use my scalpel for everything. I 'chain drill' a series of holes then thin slice by thin slice take it down to my scribed line. I find it gets trickier if your windows need a radius in each corner. Scott I did 00 with a brief foray into EM for nearly 30 years - 1930s LMS. Just over a year ago I discovered that those evil people at Dapol had come out with beautiful and affordable RTR locos and stock in 0 gauge, so that's where I am today, doing Eastern Region BR in about 1962. I'm currently building three Gresley 52' coaches from Ian Kirk parts packs. Nothing wrong with making things up as you go, I do that a lot as I march to the beat of my own drum. As others have said, Jenkinsons book is wortha look, he might have solved problems that you don't even know about....yet. John Edited January 13, 2018 by brossard 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 13, 2018 Author Share Posted January 13, 2018 I've recently asked the GERS about carriage drawings (in my case 54' suburbans) and they said they don't have much but the NRM has some. The drawings you have there - where are they from please? Mr Bucoops/ any other thread viewers What over books can you recommend that have 4mm/OO LNER/GE drawings in? Cheers Scorr Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted January 13, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 13, 2018 Don't know about pre-grouping but there's 3 Michael Harris books - LNER Carriages Gresleys Coaches LNER Standard Gresley Carriages And also Historic Carriage Drawings in 4mm scale Volume 1 by David Jenkinson and Nick Campling Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 14, 2018 Author Share Posted January 14, 2018 Ta bucoops Done a little more today/tonight Finished off cutting out the windows. The bottom of each window in the doors has a thicker bottom Once happy every window is as square and even as I can get it, time to start the panelling First of all add the bottom of the roof strip. This is so the top piece of panelling had something to butt up too Next the rest of the panelling. I worked from the top down, using pencil lines for guides You'll notice that the panel on the right hand side of each door is slightly wider, this needs to be curved vertically. You may notice this as on an earlier picture that has a bit of the drawing Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted January 14, 2018 Share Posted January 14, 2018 Very effective. Forgive me if you have mentioned this already, but what thickness and width strip are you using here? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 14, 2018 Author Share Posted January 14, 2018 Very effective. Forgive me if you have mentioned this already, but what thickness and width strip are you using here? Thickness is 0.3mm. Widths vary, but they are 1.0mm for most of the raised panel detail, some 1.2mm on the door verticals, except the 1.5mm bits on the right hand side of door, on the bottom row where the handles go. Once dry, where the door handles go, I'll carve the radius and The raised panel lines will get a light sanding down next then a bit of primer on top to see where I'm at. Hope this helps Scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Regularity Posted January 14, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 14, 2018 (edited) David Jenkinson started in 4mm and built coaches the same way when he moved up to 7mm. The only difference is the thickness of the parts.Yep. Nice 4-parter in the Railway Modeller in, I think, 1980. He talks in there about both scales. Edit: April-July 1979. Do I get a “one year out” t-shirt? Edited January 14, 2018 by Regularity Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Bucoops Posted January 14, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted January 14, 2018 Yep. Nice 4-parter in the Railway Modeller in, I think, 1980. He talks in there about both scales. Edit: April-July 1979. Do I get a “one year out” t-shirt? Depends if you got through to three in 10. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 14, 2018 Author Share Posted January 14, 2018 Not much to report Been tinkering with the door top vents Got to be cut to length. Have put radius on handle panelling and marked holes centres ready for handles and grab rails. Luckily I have some MJT bits for this. Shown on my CCT thread Have started to scribe the doors out too I will be building the coach with the roof stuck down like my CCT. So any of you readers out there what interior colours I need? Ta Scott 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edwardian Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 Have put radius on handle panelling Scott One of the trickier bits, I would have thought. How do you tackle this? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 (edited) Bit hesitant to break your flow, Scott, but I thought this might be of interest to readers of this thread. I'm working on reproducing the 1938 demonstration train hauled by the Stirling Single for the LNER. It was made up of ECJS 6 wheel stock. Some of this is available as etched kits but there are 2 diagrams which are not. The sides for these have been drawn up by another member of the Grantham team and laser cut by York Modelmakers. This gets round the part of your methodology which would give me the most pause, the ability to cut consistently and accurately. The rest of the vehicle is scratchbuilt around the sides. Here are the major components laid out: The side at the top (D84 toilet first) is as they come. To reproduce the panelling, two layers of the plastic are stuck together. The recessed panels in the upper half are peeled out leaving just the beading. The grooves in the lower half act as guides for sticking plastic rod to make up the raised beading. On the lower side (D155 composite) you can see that this has been done. Ends are scratchbuilt from plastikard and Evergreen strip. The floor is Paxolin, which means that I can solder brass solebars, steps, W irons and all the other gubbins into place, giving weight low down. Mike Trice does the really fiddly bits (buffer stocks, springs/axleboxes) through his Shapeways shop. You can read more on my workbench thread, but here is the first build just standing on its wheels next to a Dan Pinnock D 245 third. Edited May 3, 2018 by jwealleans 7 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 15, 2018 Author Share Posted January 15, 2018 One of the trickier bits, I would have thought. How do you tackle this?Where most of the panel lines are idone in 1mm I've placed 1.5mm and fashioned it into a 'D' shape as below. There's a couple of panel lines I'm not too happy with, and the odd handle 'D' that needs to be moved. But on the whole I'm happy. As for the other radii in the panels, I'm tempted to leave. Or I may experiment with some putty and using an end of a 2.5mm diameter push into the corners. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 15, 2018 Author Share Posted January 15, 2018 (edited) Jonathan Your 6 wheelers are going to look great I'd like a 6 wheeler or to but how best to do the middle wheel? I envisage 3 ways 1. Glue middle wheel solid and file the flange down to clear the rail. 2. Have a free foating axel with 3mm or more side play. 3. Have the 'W' iron assembly rotate slightly or slide side to side like the axel How's it done on your 6 wheeler? Scott Edited January 15, 2018 by gobbler Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jwealleans Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 (edited) Cheers, Scott. I use option B - free floating middle axle. On these Comet W iron etches you get a cradle as a bonus, but I also use a bit of tube. .45 wire soldered to it and then soldered under one fo the outer axles. Give the centre axle slight downward pressure on the track to assist roadholding and Bob's your uncle. This is a Chivers 6 wheel fish van, but I do them all the same way: Edited October 15, 2018 by jwealleans 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 Ah yes the old 6 wheeler conundrum. I've tried several methods including Cleminson chassis (which works but is a tad complicated) but the simplest and possibly most effective is the floating axle. My method is taken from Bill Bedford. It involves mounting the wheels on a 2mm OD brass tube cut to a suitable length for your gauge. The ID is 1mm and a length of steel 1mm rod is inserted and goes into the bearings. Here's what I mean: John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 15, 2018 Author Share Posted January 15, 2018 Cheers chaps What would be suitable colours for the inside, gonna need to know fairly soonish. Because I'm constructing it with the roof in situ and non removable as I had done with my suburbans. The outer colour will be LNER teak brown as I believe this was the colour they finished there careers in. Not teak as this is too early as I'm building during the steam/diesel transition period. Cheers again Scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 15, 2018 Share Posted January 15, 2018 (edited) A couple of interior pics here: http://www.cs.vintagecarriagestrust.org/se/CarriageInfo.asp?Ref=999 A bit modern but may give you an idea. Mike Trice made some compartments: http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/121184-titivating-bachmanns-original-thompson-lner-coaches/ Post #5 John Edited January 16, 2018 by brossard 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 A little update..... Have moved the 'D' shape for the door handles, replaced 2 pieces of strip that forms some of the door mouldings. A lot happier with appearance now. Once all that was dry, scribed the door lines using my square and my scalpel at 90 degrees to the cut. Used some old sprue and stretched over a flame cut into lengths of about 1mm and glued them along the left hand door scribe line as hinges. Painted the inside, opted for 3rd class red and 1st class green. Used a light colour cream/brown for internal wood and a mid/neutral grey for the floor. The door vents I cut to length and stuck above each door. Lastly gave a coat of Phoenix paints LNER dull teak Next job glaze, and add some of the old original Airfix sitting passengers. Then it's roof time. 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 17, 2018 Share Posted January 17, 2018 (edited) You'll need T handles. I make them by mounting a pin in a pin vice and grinding off two sides of the head. John Edit: Before you glaze I recommend the following: 1) A cost of gloss varnish on the exterior 2) Transfers 3) A coat of satin varnish to protect the transfers and provide a consistent finish. Then you can glaze. Edited January 17, 2018 by brossard 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gobbler Posted January 17, 2018 Author Share Posted January 17, 2018 You'll need T handles. I make them by mounting a pin in a pin vice and grinding off two sides of the head. John Edit: Before you glaze I recommend the following: 1) A cost of gloss varnish on the exterior 2) Transfers 3) A coat of satin varnish to protect the transfers and provide a consistent finish. Then you can glaze. Damn....... I wished I read this 2 hours ago...... However not all is lost. My son who makes aircraft has some Humbrol Maskol. I give that a go Cheers scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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