TurboSnail Posted February 17, 2018 Author Share Posted February 17, 2018 Exciting times - the 3D prints for the Mk2 arrived yesterday, I gave them a quick coat of primer to show up the imperfections. Looking quite good actually, although I won't be doing anything with them this weekend as the flu that's been going round my house has finally caught up with me... But couldn't resist trial fitting the wheels to get a sneak preview of what it'll look like. 8 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lu4472ke Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Exciting times - the 3D prints for the Mk2 arrived yesterday, I gave them a quick coat of primer to show up the imperfections. Looking quite good actually, although I won't be doing anything with them this weekend as the flu that's been going round my house has finally caught up with me... But couldn't resist trial fitting the wheels to get a sneak preview of what it'll look like. P1000038 (2).JPG P1000039.JPG P1000040.JPG ohh I like that!!!! when is it available and what wheels are you using? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted February 17, 2018 Author Share Posted February 17, 2018 ohh I like that!!!! when is it available and what wheels are you using? It will be available once I've finished this test model, which depends on how hectic my Uni schedule gets. I will need to make a couple of minor changes to it too, the only one I've noticed so far is that the motor mount dimensions are slightly out - nothing a bit of packing under the motor won't fix for this example, but I'd like it to be right for the final version. It's on Hornby outside framed class 08 wheels - Romford/Gibson/ScaleLink were a bit expensive for me! Spares no X9373M. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted February 20, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 20, 2018 So will it use the standard Hornby coupling rods for the 0-4-0? It's brilliant! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 So will it use the standard Hornby coupling rods for the 0-4-0? It's brilliant! Thanks! Yes, it's standard 0-4-0 coupling rods, I still need to find a way to fix them to the 08 wheels though, I tried printing fixing pins as part of the chassis on a sort of sprue, but I've made them a bit small - will be corrected for the final version but in the meantime, nothing that can't be solved without a little bodging. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 Last night was the first chance I had to work on the model. Step 1 was to sand down the body and chassis to get a smooth(ish) finish, concentrating in particular on any curved areas. You can see where the primer has been completely taken off where I've concentrated the effort. I used a Dremel but could equally be done by hand if you're a little more patient than me. Now I've seen the photo, I'll probably do another shot of primer and get the Dremel out for round 2... I also enlarged the motor hole slightly, this won't need to be done on the final version once the CAD model is corrected. 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lu4472ke Posted February 22, 2018 Share Posted February 22, 2018 Thanks! Yes, it's standard 0-4-0 coupling rods, I still need to find a way to fix them to the 08 wheels though, I tried printing fixing pins as part of the chassis on a sort of sprue, but I've made them a bit small - will be corrected for the final version but in the meantime, nothing that can't be solved without a little bodging. Why not use 08 coupling rods and crankpins or 3D print some? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted February 22, 2018 Author Share Posted February 22, 2018 Why not use 08 coupling rods and crankpins or 3D print some? 08 coupling rods would be out of proportion as it would end up being half of an 0-6-0 wheelbase. They're also more expensive, so I don't want to buy a set just to get the crankpins. I think 3D printing the crankpins will work ok, but the coupling rods themselves would be too flimsy at that sort of thickness. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Corbs Posted February 22, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 22, 2018 I've just had a look at my spare 08 wheelsets, and they are threaded holes, so don't you just need a normal crankpin and a small washer? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 I've just had a look at my spare 08 wheelsets, and they are threaded holes, so don't you just need a normal crankpin and a small washer? Yes, that would be ideal, but I can't find any really (really) cheap ones. I've just tested a spare set I have for a 4F and they fit so it seems Hornby may use a standard size. I've also just noticed that one of the conrods from the 4F set is only 1.5mm shorter than the 0-4-0 ones, so I think the next version of the model may come with a slightly shorter wheelbase to make use of the nicer rods and crankpins. I might just have dust off my wallet and buy another set for the current one as well at £6.29... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted February 26, 2018 Author Share Posted February 26, 2018 Made a start on the detailing, so far we have coupling hooks, SR pattern buffers (apparently, I'm no expert on these things), and handrail knobs. The engine bay doors are also in the works from plasticard - not having them in the 3D print saves a little bit of the printing cost and makes smoothing down the sides much easier. Next steps are to fit handrails, finish the doors, fit the grille mesh (I should probably order that at some point...), fit the body retaining nuts, then it's ready for primer and paint. I'm not sure yet as to whether I'll finish the body then do the chassis, or mix and match as I feel like it. The chassis is pretty much ready for paint already as there are no separate details to fit. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted March 3, 2018 Author Share Posted March 3, 2018 Chassis painted and test fitting parts, pickups fit nicely but I need to work out how much to modify the motor mount for the final version - it may use different gears to this one as they're a bit fiddly to mesh and not the easiest to get hold of. Bonus points if you can spot the part of the chassis I had to repair due to it arriving broken! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted March 4, 2018 Author Share Posted March 4, 2018 To counteract the light weight of the chassis and give the shunter some traction and good electrical contact, the chassis has been designed with a couple of ballast bins at the front and back. These can be filled with lead/scrap or in my case, Liquid Gravity (do this after fitting the pickups, as gluing ballast in place locks the pickup nuts in place!). This makes a surprisingly big difference, and once the heavy flywheel and some extra weight in the body are added, it should be a pretty weighty little beast. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
LNWR18901910 Posted March 4, 2018 Share Posted March 4, 2018 (edited) Job well done on the model, so far. Edited March 4, 2018 by LNWR18901910 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
relaxinghobby Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 To counteract the light weight of the chassis and give the shunter some traction and good electrical contact, the chassis has been designed with a couple of ballast bins at the front and back. These can be filled with lead/scrap or in my case, Liquid Gravity (do this after fitting the pickups, as gluing ballast in place locks the pickup nuts in place!). This makes a surprisingly big difference, and once the heavy flywheel and some extra weight in the body are added, it should be a pretty weighty little beast. P1000050.JPG Oh dear, I hope that is not PVA glue with the liquid lead, they have been known to react and swell up causing problems. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted March 5, 2018 Author Share Posted March 5, 2018 Oh dear, I hope that is not PVA glue with the liquid lead, they have been known to react and swell up causing problems. We'll see! I've never had any issues with this combo before, maybe some people just got a bad batch? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted March 5, 2018 Share Posted March 5, 2018 Lead that reacts with the acetic acid in PVA; perhaps the weights you're using aren't lead. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Premium Nile Posted March 5, 2018 RMweb Premium Share Posted March 5, 2018 If it's Deluxe liquid gravity then it's steel, not lead. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share Posted March 6, 2018 Yep, it's the Deluxe Materials steel one. Phew! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted March 6, 2018 Author Share Posted March 6, 2018 The wheels are now fitted to the chassis with the new gear in place. Rather than the traditional assembly from each side, the wheels slot in from the bottom as a complete assembly - this makes them much easier to align properly using a back-to-back gauge as they're very difficult to get parallel otherwise. A dab of superglue on top of the bearings holds them in place and is removable if necessary. The pickups give the wheels a self-centreing effect as well. Couldn't resist putting the body on too! 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted March 6, 2018 Share Posted March 6, 2018 The wheels are now fitted to the chassis with the new gear in place. Rather than the traditional assembly from each side, the wheels slot in from the bottom as a complete assembly - this makes them much easier to align properly using a back-to-back gauge as they're very difficult to get parallel otherwise. A dab of superglue on top of the bearings holds them in place and is removable if necessary. The pickups give the wheels a self-centreing effect as well. P1000051.JPG Couldn't resist putting the body on too! P1000053.JPG That's looking very good, Tom. Now, all you need to do is print some 3D umbrellas for the crew, and she's away!! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted March 7, 2018 Author Share Posted March 7, 2018 That's looking very good, Tom. Now, all you need to do is print some 3D umbrellas for the crew, and she's away!! Early steam locos had no cab roof, why not early diesels too? It's on the way, as soon as I figure out how to bend plasticard to a small radius without it cracking. Probably involving a soldering iron. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 You could try using laminated layers of plastic card to achieve the curve. I know a few bus modellers use the technique to build their roofs. Once the layers have bonded, you can fill and file them into the correct profile.Larger radius bends in plastic sheet can be set using hot water. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
BernardTPM Posted March 7, 2018 Share Posted March 7, 2018 Thin metal perhaps? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted March 8, 2018 Author Share Posted March 8, 2018 I'll have a go at a couple of different roofing methods and see what works - the original plan was to use 0.5mm plasticard so I'll try heat-softening that first. In the meantime... Lamp irons are staples (probably slightly overscale), engine bay doors are 0.5mm plasticard. Not sure if the air horns are strictly correct for a 1930s loco, but I like the look of them, so they're staying. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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