SteveS Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Hello All I would like to purchase some of the Peco and Parkside open wagons for loading coal etc....I know they are in kit form, but I would like to know do they go together fairly easy or are there any issues with these kits. Right now I have 2 Dapol 7 plank wagons along with a Minerva Models Pannier tank engine. I'm working on a layout to run this stuff. more on the layout a bit later. Thanks Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Hi Steve. I've built Parkside opens and I like them a lot. I can't really speak to Peco wagons but I did build some underframes for some steel minerals and thought they were very good. Peco underframes have sprung wheels, Parkside don't but these can be fitted (either Bill Bedford or Slaters). Both have sprung buffers. Parkside come with wheels and transfers, don't know about Peco. The Minerva Pannier is a good choice. I have my friends loco and have done the accessories (I didn't enjoy drilling the mazak valences for pipes though). Now waiting for number plates. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted January 30, 2018 Share Posted January 30, 2018 Steve, Parkside are now owned by Peco. Both makes go together well, and are beautifully detailed. Do use a good quality solvent cement. Slaters also do kit wagons, the newer ones are very good, the older ones are(were?) a bit less detailed. POWsides used to do Slaters kits with the paint/transfers done for you, not sure what they do now. Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted February 1, 2018 Author Share Posted February 1, 2018 Hi Steve. I've built Parkside opens and I like them a lot. I can't really speak to Peco wagons but I did build some underframes for some steel minerals and thought they were very good. Peco underframes have sprung wheels, Parkside don't but these can be fitted (either Bill Bedford or Slaters). Both have sprung buffers. Parkside come with wheels and transfers, don't know about Peco. The Minerva Pannier is a good choice. I have my friends loco and have done the accessories (I didn't enjoy drilling the mazak valences for pipes though). Now waiting for number plates. John Hi John Thanks for the input. I just recently received my new number plates a few days ago. I do enjoy kit building bu.t just wanted to get a bit of info before I got a couple of the, Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 1, 2018 Share Posted February 1, 2018 (edited) If you look around here Steve (usually in the 7mm + modelling sub forum), you'll find threads of mine showing Parkside and Slaters kit builds. Kits can sometimes be a bit difficult to decipher so my efforts and booboos might help. Building kits is great fun and I love the research angle. RMWebbers have been extraordinarily helpful to me in my quest for a model that has a bit extra. John Edited February 1, 2018 by brossard Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwr Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 I think the Peco wagons were originally made by a firm called Websters. I have the box van and a 16t coal wagon and both went together really well. It will be interesting to see if the Peco coal wagon stays in rhe range now it ha Parkside. The cynic in me says that on acquisitiion of Parkside, Peco will have put up prices. Can anyone confirm. Thesis what Corgi did when it acquired the Vanguards range and some of the original models that camein at £11.95 are now retailing at £22.95. Disgraceful. Paul R Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshall5 Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 Quite correct Paul. Tower Models announced, on the 19th Jan, an across the board increase on all Peco products "with immediate effect" see: http://www.tower-models.com/ That makes the kit price for the 16T mineral just about the same as a Dapol/Lionheart RTR one. I wonder if the availability of quality, cheap RTR will result in the likes of Peco/Parkside being reluctant to invest in new kits. When was the last time Slaters brought out a new 7mm scale wagon? Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pwr Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 Quite correct Paul. Tower Models announced, on the 19th Jan, an across the board increase on all Peco products "with immediate effect" see: http://www.tower-models.com/ That makes the kit price for the 16T mineral just about the same as a Dapol/Lionheart RTR one. I wonder if the availability of quality, cheap RTR will result in the likes of Peco/Parkside being reluctant to invest in new kits. When was the last time Slaters brought out a new 7mm scale wagon? Ray. Sadly I think you are right and that Peco bought the range with a view simply to keeping it going and not developing anything new. I think there is still a market for the unusual although with Hattons delivering the war well at a reasonable price who knows what will happen. Paul R Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 2, 2018 Share Posted February 2, 2018 I think that Parkside and Slaters kits are great value. I do agree that Peco/Parkside and Slaters should release new kits. Thier incentive to do so is probably reduced by Dapol coming out with RTR wagons that cross into kit territory. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
malcs Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 Apart from my life long love of the railways and being 60 with all the usual senior ailments (eyes) I turned to O gauge in part for scratch and kits building, track, locos and everything else., so while I appreciate the RTR offerings I would be sad to see them smother the kit producers. Malc 3 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 As Paul Ashton said on one of the other channels, “there are some of us who are grey, and buying RTR and still building kits” or words very much to that effect. I reckon there are quite a lot of us, and I reckon Peco do too, or they wouldn’t have invested in Parkside, which could not have been a cheap deal. So hang in there, it’ll be fine! Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poggy1165 Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 A simple kit like a Parkside or Slater's open is about as easy a kit as you will find. However, the instructions tend to be a tad on the terse side, and the method of assembly suggested is not always the most practical. For example, I always fit couplings and buffers to the end first as it is much easier than struggling with tiny tools to assemble them properly post-construction. The thinness of the instructions mean that, unless you have good knowledge of the prototype, you may make boo-boos. I know I did! But don't let that put you off. Ask for advice, for example on here. There is no such thing as a silly question. Studying a prototype photo, where available, may also help you. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ROSSPOP Posted February 4, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted February 4, 2018 (edited) Apart from my life long love of the railways and being 60 with all the usual senior ailments (eyes) I turned to O gauge in part for scratch and kits building, track, locos and everything else., so while I appreciate the RTR offerings I would be sad to see them smother the kit producers. Malc Do not be afearred !! Malc There will always be 7mm loco kits, because in my opinion a half decent lovingly hand built kit will ( from a decent kit designer that is) will always look more realistic and perform better than mazak/plastic ( entry price)RTR models. I often wonder who gets to fix the RTR locos when their chassis/motors `bite the dust` It might be that some enterprising kit producer might design a replacement chassis kit . So far:- FINNEY 7 MODERN OUTLINE KITS (MOK) JUST LIKE THE REAL THING (JLTRT) SLATERS GLADIATOR MODELS 88D MODELS DJH LAURIE GRIFFIN MINIATURES WARREN SHEPPARD. All going well with loco kits. Plus a couple from the `on the strap` department HATCHETTE PARTWORKS. but just like 4mm there are too few 7mm coach kit providers........ Edited February 4, 2018 by ROSSPOP 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 True, I can’t comment on other companies, but for those of us with a GW persuasion, there are Slaters 4W and bogie clerestories, and JLTRT toplights. The wide range of Blacksmith brass toplights and clerestories are currently unavailable, which is a shame. Ian Kirk provides kits for bogie vans. I am building or have built all of the above except the 4 wheelers. Coach etches for various GW stock are also available - Karl Legg’s range, plus Dragon for some Welsh stock. There’s quite a bit of RTR GW coaching stock, the auto coach and B sets / D sets, but afaik, no main line stock. I got my B-set second hand ready built, Tower possibly. Have to say, if I could buy mainline coaching stock of the appropriate era, finished, I’d never build coaches. They’re hard work, delicate, fiddly & difficult to paint, and you need lots of them for a train. Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 4, 2018 Share Posted February 4, 2018 A simple kit like a Parkside or Slater's open is about as easy a kit as you will find. However, the instructions tend to be a tad on the terse side, and the method of assembly suggested is not always the most practical. For example, I always fit couplings and buffers to the end first as it is much easier than struggling with tiny tools to assemble them properly post-construction. The thinness of the instructions mean that, unless you have good knowledge of the prototype, you may make boo-boos. I know I did! But don't let that put you off. Ask for advice, for example on here. There is no such thing as a silly question. Studying a prototype photo, where available, may also help you. I think most kit instructions could be better. I leave couplings until last to ease the painting. It seems to me that instructions don't take painting into account so the builder needs to come up with a painting plan (mine is in my head). Most kits that I've built have benefitted from the generous advice of RMWebbers. If you have a question, just ask. The answer is usually forthcoming quickly. I agree with Simon about coaches, they are almost as involved as locos. We need more RTR. I don't care if they don't have all the fiddly details, I can add what I want. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Poggy1165 Posted February 5, 2018 Share Posted February 5, 2018 I must admit, I tend to paint (plastic) wagons before assembly and touch up as required when complete. This is partly because I always do detailed interiors nowadays, and painting the interior of a completed wagon is a pain. But there is no sacred method of working, it's finding the method that suits the individual best. As for RTR coaches - there is no chance whatever of suitable ones being available for my needs, so I shall have to continue to be grateful for such kits as appear, given that my only alternative would be to scratch-build. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 Thanks for all the help guys. I ordered a park side open wagon kit thru Antics. Now just waiting for it to arrive in the post Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 Great Steve. Be sure to ask any questions you may have here. I'll be watching. I'll start by saying that my policy is to do the wheels first. I tried using a Sharpie to blacken the wheel rims and axles after reading a Tim Shackleton weathering article in MRJ. I find it works well - easier than chemical black. I then paint the wheels with a concoction of earth, rust and black paint. I use powders later to finish the job. I expect you have your own preferences though. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 (edited) Metal black is worth getting to work, for wheel fronts, wheel backs (remember those low level shots!), and particularly couplings, which look quite awful in brass. (And which lots of people seem to forget, as evidenced by many photos of otherwise exquisite models). Also slide bars, coupling rods & valve gear, brakes, etc., .. It’s strange stuff, I find. I have three different ones. One is a watery blueish mixture in a plastic bottle, can’t remember what brand, but it’s not very effective. Then I have a small pot of blue paste, which is intended for steel, and which needs a drop of water from time to time, and a similar pot of a solution, which is intended for brass. A look here suggests a range of products, the two I have used successfully are the G96 paste on steel, and the Birchwood Casey Brass. http://modelshipworldforum.com/resources/furniture/MetalBlackening.pdf#page4 Loads of safety warnings. It is said that Brazil nuts are a good source of selenium. These products are an lethally good source of selenium. Wear gloves, maybe a splash mask, and clean up well afterwards. Everything you need to know about Selenium is here. https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Selenium. To get them to work, it’s vital that the parts to be blacked are degreased. I generally polish wheels, then degrease with acetone, then give them a go with the blue. If it won’t take, isopropyl alcohol will “wet” the surface, but often, simply rubbing the solution onto the metal works too. I nearly always use those double ended cotton buds to apply the product. With steel, after applying the goo, and washing off in hot water, I dry the parts (hairdryer?) and then give them a going over with some light oil, as the metal black will not prevent rust forming, but it does “hold on” to the oil, so works well when oiled. Hope this helps Simon Edited February 18, 2018 by Simond Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 I've used a lot of chemical black products Simon. From Carrs Metal Black to Micro Engineering rail weathering solution. They all seem to be the same (Selenium Dioxide) and come with skulls and crossbones and dire warnings. The stuff is expensive too. The solution loses strength over time. My use of the Sharpie is to cover up the shiny metal before painting. If the paint chips, there's black underneath. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 Hi John, I’ve used the sharpie too, (and still do where dismantling is not an option) but I reckon the metal black is better. It is odd, the way sometimes it’s brilliant, and sometimes it isn’t at all. I haven’t noticed a loss of potency in the bottles I’ve got - not sure how long I’ve had them, but several years, I’d guess. One thing, I haven’t had any success getting “hi-nickel”, NS rail to darken, but wheels, couplings and general metalwork, pretty much no problem. Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 I agree that blackened metal does look good Simon but it can be a faff. Just searching for another option. There's always metal cote paint which buffs up. All subjective of course. John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simond Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 Ah, now, I do like metalcote - I’ve found that it can be a bit “thick”, but if moderately thinned, it goes on well, and buffs up most pleasingly. Of course, it could be that I’ve kept it a bit long... Best Simon Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 I've had most of my Humbrol enamels for more years than I care to think. It's still viable after a bit of thinning. Amazing stuff. Anyway I wanted to give Steve a tip on wheels to get him started. John 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted February 23, 2018 Author Share Posted February 23, 2018 hello all thanks for all the info about kit building, I purchased a Parkside /Dundas 21 ton coal hopper. will try to show my progress as I go. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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