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Dovecliffe (from page 9)


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Thanks Mike ,I’m just a beginner tbh took 3 goes to get arch how I wanted lol

 

I’ll have a look out Geoff Kent ,has he books out ?

 

Regards

 

Brian

 

He has 3 wagon building books out but I'm not aware of any structure building books, he has had quite a few articles published in various magazines, primarily in Model Railway Journal, but he is a wizard with plastic card.

 

Mike.

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Geoff worte a 3 part series on 4mm Wagons:

 

https://britishrailwaybooks.co.uk/books/ISBN/1874103038.php

 

https://britishrailwaybooks.co.uk/books/ISBN/1874103240.php

 

https://britishrailwaybooks.co.uk/books/ISBN/1874103976.php

 

Even though these are for 4mm, I find them useful in my 7mm wagon modelling due to a fair number of prototype pics.

 

Also this:

 

https://britishrailwaybooks.co.uk/books/ISBN/1874103488.php

 

If you are into Coal Wagons.

 

John

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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks jints

 

Been thinking about the bridge and I’ll need rivet detail ,what’s thoughts on how to achieve that ?

 

Brian

 

 

Plastic!!!! Lots of holes and 1 - 2mm diameter plastic rod cut off evenly for the rivets.

Or......................... 2 x brass sheet, rivets punched out equally on each, and then laminated together with the rivet detail on the outside.

 

Et Viola one steel plate bridge panel!!!

Lots of work though, but of the two, I think that the plastic option is best.

 

Someone will no doubt be along to tell you where you can buy them ready done, like Duncan Models for example..........................!!!!!!

 

Jinty ;)

 

Jinty 

Edited by Jintyman
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Bri,

 

Can’t remember the maker but there are rivet transfers. Otherwise, it’s drill & pins, or dots of PVA, or offcuts of plastic rod

 

If you can get the girders laser cut, the holes can be pre-installed! Makes pins or bits of plastic an easier option.

 

Or as David says, riveted brass. Probably what I’d do.

 

There may be etched girders. Skytrex do resin ones too, I think.

 

Best

Simon

Edited by Simond
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Bri,

 

Can’t remember the maker but there are rivet transfers. 

 

Best

Simon

 

 Archers!!!

 

Never thought of that Simon, and I was only reading someone who had used them on a Hawksworth coach build recently!!!

 

Jinty ;) 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Bri,

 

The car body filler approach is good.

 

When you drill them, use a jig.

 

Nothing too clever needed, but some way of supporting them so they’re all exactly the same. Offcuts of wood, toolmakers clamps, and a depth stop on the drill press. That way they’ll look better, and your wagon won’t rock!

 

Best

Simon

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see PD recent thread where I'm using that etch - those are WEP GW 9' wheelbase wagon parts, possibly not what Bri needs.

 

but a good Google, I'm sure there's something suitable out there!

 

best

Simon

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I know they do and I've used them on a number of wagons.  You get the axle guards but not the axleboxes and springs.  You'll need to salvage these from your castings.

 

https://eileensemporium.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=product&task=show&cid=2723&name=br-plate-w-irons-7mm&Itemid=189&category_pathway=1289

 

There are several styles to choose from, these might be what you need.  Comes with spring wire.

 

John

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Here's an example of one I used to make a Dapol PO wagon acceptable:

 

post-5932-0-68202200-1522260210_thumb.jpg

 

I also added a brake gear etch because Dapols was pretty nasty.  Thank goodness Lionheart are doing the wagons now.

 

John

Edited by brossard
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Don't know if it is mentioned but my layout is based on Stephen Williams Faringdon.

 

John

 

Edit:  I like the challenge of building my own turnouts.  I use Peco components and have some wooden timbers on order from Intentio.  Building your own makes them so much cheaper.

Edited by brossard
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I've built loads of turnouts in 00 using copper clad strip.  It is very satisfying.  It has taken me quite a while to refine my methods.

 

I started the tandem using a quick template from Templot.  This is essentially two turnout templates overlaid and was a little busy so difficult to see where things should go.  I used the same idea inTrax 2, selecting two curved turnouts with a common track .  This worked better for me because Trax 2 templates are simpler and it was easier for me to draw in the missing bits.  The Peco template was a useful guide too.

 

I never successfully built a tandem before either.  I tried in code 100 00 but found that I couldn't get my iron in to attach some check rails - doh!  In hindsight I might have got away with glue.

 

John

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I've built loads of turnouts in 00 using copper clad strip.  It is very satisfying.  It has taken me quite a while to refine my methods.

 

I started the tandem using a quick template from Templot.  This is essentially two turnout templates overlaid and was a little busy so difficult to see where things should go.  I used the same idea inTrax 2, selecting two curved turnouts with a common track .  This worked better for me because Trax 2 templates are simpler and it was easier for me to draw in the missing bits.  The Peco template was a useful guide too.

 

I never successfully built a tandem before either.  I tried in code 100 00 but found that I couldn't get my iron in to attach some check rails - doh!  In hindsight I might have got away with glue.

 

John

John,

Here is the three-way  during the early stages of construction of Cwm Bach. This particular point used PECO Indivudulay parts. My method was to work from the inside out starting with the common crossings. The crossings are soldered to thinned strips of 4mm scale pcb sleeper strip that are glued to the sleepers. This allows some scope for adjustment as construction proceeds. Cosmetic chairs are attached for the final finish. The template was drawn by hand as I have not acquired the patience to master Templot. 

 

Regards,

 

CK

post-13142-0-87046800-1522482521_thumb.jpg

post-13142-0-94316900-1522482899_thumb.jpg

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