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Triang Hornby 3F motor X03 or X3.5 or X04 repair


AdeMoore
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I bought an eBay none runner watched John on you tube

Stripped it easy with the help of the video but the suppressor? Is snapped from the wire on the chassis.

 

See pic.post-32910-0-01771900-1517868998_thumb.jpeg

 

Is it worth trying to solder that I guess I can get another and fit somewhere?

 

Motor before the clean up with flammable cleaning fluid.

post-32910-0-62826900-1517869211_thumb.jpeg

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Ah that is a wonderful sight, the marvellous X04.

You can run without the suppressor (though technically illegal!) I'm sure you can pick them up on ebay, or PM me and I'll have a search. I used to be a service agent, still got a few bits around but need to look them out. 

That commutator looked filthy, I hope you cleaned it out as well as polished the surface. The slots can get clogged up with carbon, and eventually will actually arc. This can lead to one of the few terminal failures of the motor (though often can be overcome). I used to use an old Ex-Acto knife blade, held gently against the commutator whilst the motor was running, to polish it. With care, this acts like a tool in a lathe and removes the blackness leaving a smooth finish. As for oil, a smidgeon in the pads, no more. If you need it re-magnetising, PM me as I still have the tool. If you find one winding open circuit, a fairly common fault, that too can be fixed.

 

Stewart

Edited by stewartingram
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  • 10 months later...

To resurrect this thread, but there are still lots of these about. They are almost indestructible!

 

I have a couple of these with the commutator shorting to the shaft. The result of too much oil probably (not guilty - they were second hand). Does anyone have any ideas on curing this. I've scraped one and the resistance now measures about 1kΩ. It runs, but future reliability is questionable. The other has a brass worm which really needs a puller to remove it to gain access to the commutator.

 

My questions are:-

 

Is there any reliable way of removing the charring apart from scraping and hoping for the best?

 

Can the worm be removed without a puller without damaging it. Pullers are available on eBay, but the price is such as to make it cheaper to buy another motor. I wouldn't get enough use out of it to justify the expense.

 

Many thanks in advance for your help.

 

David

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To resurrect this thread, but there are still lots of these about. They are almost indestructible!

 

I have a couple of these with the commutator shorting to the shaft. The result of too much oil probably (not guilty - they were second hand). Does anyone have any ideas on curing this. I've scraped one and the resistance now measures about 1kΩ. It runs, but future reliability is questionable. The other has a brass worm which really needs a puller to remove it to gain access to the commutator.

 

My questions are:-

 

Is there any reliable way of removing the charring apart from scraping and hoping for the best?

 

Can the worm be removed without a puller without damaging it. Pullers are available on eBay, but the price is such as to make it cheaper to buy another motor. I wouldn't get enough use out of it to justify the expense.

 

Many thanks in advance for your help.

 

David

 

The worm will come off if you heat it with a blow lamp, make sure you know what you are doing before lighting the blow lamp or you might burn the shed down.  I hold the motor vertical with the wire cutter part of a pair of pliers on the shaft between worm and front bearing and the magnet about an inch above my bench. I heat the worm till the motor falls off.   This way the flames and heat go upwards away from the motor and don't set the motor/ oil pad/ commutator  on fire. To refit hold the motor in the vice shaft upwards and heat the worm really reddish hot and pop it on. Best to use pliers not bare fingers.

  You can get the worms off cold without a puller but in my experience they can't be used again.

 

Edit I am referring to the Brass worms,  The plastic ones don't respond well to being heated with a naked flame.

Edited by DavidCBroad
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  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks! I did wonder about heating the wretched thing. I don't have a blowlamp unfortunately and I don't think a gas ring is a good idea!

 

I see replacement commutators are available on ebay (for early X.02s),  but the price again is nearly as much as a good motor. I did get some plastic gearsets, so saving the worm is not such a high priority any more. A large file will shift it....

Edited by Il Grifone
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  • 2 weeks later...

Ah that is a wonderful sight, the marvellous X04.

You can run without the suppressor (though technically illegal!) I'm sure you can pick them up on ebay, or PM me and I'll have a search. I used to be a service agent, still got a few bits around but need to look them out. 

That commutator looked filthy, I hope you cleaned it out as well as polished the surface. The slots can get clogged up with carbon, and eventually will actually arc. This can lead to one of the few terminal failures of the motor (though often can be overcome). I used to use an old Ex-Acto knife blade, held gently against the commutator whilst the motor was running, to polish it. With care, this acts like a tool in a lathe and removes the blackness leaving a smooth finish. As for oil, a smidgeon in the pads, no more. If you need it re-magnetising, PM me as I still have the tool. If you find one winding open circuit, a fairly common fault, that too can be fixed.

 

Stewart

Morning Stewart I've sent you a P.M.

cheers

Steve

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Just to add to this topic

 

Santa brought me this

 

DSC_0533.JPG.fdb6189d15fdc434261428461a02ebcc.JPG

 

A remagnetizer - so as part of the refurbishment service that I offer http://redgatemodels.co.uk/?page_id=100 I can now either fit a Neo magnet or remagnetize, the choice is up to the customer 🙂 As a matter of course though all motors that pass through my hands will be remagnetized, so if a loco comes in for service it will also be done.

 

Edited by RedgateModels
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I've realised nobody has answered the original question about the suppressor capacitor. So at this late date:-

 

As stated, the motor will work perfectly well without it, though an AM or DAB radio* in the vicinity probably won't. The original component is a tubular ceramic capacitor with a value of 500 picofarad (pF). This can probably only be sourced from a defunct chassis, but a 470pF disc ceramic will do just as well. These are available cheaply from the Far East on eBay. If there is still a piece of the wire 'tail' left the original can probably be soldered. It takes a lot of heat to damage a ceramic capacitor.

 

* Even an FM radio will struggle with the usual rod aerial in a poor reception area.

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