hayfield Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 I am new to 7 mm scale locos and just bought a 7 mm Slaters SR G6 loco (ready built), which had a few issues, namely missing brake rigging and dirty wheels. I cleaned up the wheels and used some brass wire to form the brake rigging and the loco was working sort of OK just needing a good run to clean up the wheels where the wipers are On the clubs layout going forward on the inner circle all was fine, and ran faultlessly, but going in reverse over the same piece of track and going forward and backwards on the outside track and the loco derailed both on curves and through turnouts and crossings. I put this down to two things, firstly the chassis was slightly out of square, I have taken the chassis off the loco it seems square. I assume the floor of the loco is slightly out so I can pack out one corner to keep the chassis square Secondly there seems to be no side play with the wheels, I thought if I removed the washers on the front and rear wheels that would give a bit more side play to compensate for the radii on model layouts. I was surprised to find there were no washers. I am in the process of building a Roxey Beattie well tank so I thought I would compare both chassis, they both are much the same within the odd thou Both chassis measure 26.75 mm wide over the frames and 28.65 mm over the axle bearings, the back to backs on the Slater wheels measure 29.41 mm, which means there is less than a mm movement. I thought that if I removed both outer wheels of the G6, and give the axles a good clean (just incase crud had built up), this may ease the situation a tad, but any thoughts or tips on resolving this issue please, or do you think just squaring up the chassis and the good clean will be enough to resolve the issues Also any tips in keeping these wheels in good electrical order please. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 15, 2018 Share Posted February 15, 2018 (edited) If running on 32mm gauge there is next to no side play required. On something like a G6 I would let it have minimal front and rear with 0.5mm or do on the middle. The derailing is more likely to be frame issues. Are the wheels all sitting down when placed on a sheet of glass. Check with body on and off as the body could impart a twist to the frames. By the way Slater's do not do a G6, if bras it could either be Gibson or Haywood's. If mostly white metal Roxey mouldings. Shedmaster also used to do a brass one. Edited February 15, 2018 by N15class Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 15, 2018 Author Share Posted February 15, 2018 Thanks, that perhaps will be an easy fix, as it seems that the chassis is square when away from the body. Will have a play John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 Thanks, that perhaps will be an easy fix, as it seems that the chassis is square when away from the body. Will have a play John Sometimes a chassis that is fine on its own will warp if the fixings to the body are over-tightened. Will the chassis run on its own without derailing? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share Posted February 16, 2018 Sometimes a chassis that is fine on its own will warp if the fixings to the body are over-tightened. Will the chassis run on its own without derailing? David Thank you, I have the wheels off to give them and the axles a good clean. One of my thoughts was part of the problem may be down to the chassis being out of square due to it being tightly attached to an out of square body. When I removed it from the body it did not rock so a bit of packing between the body and chassis may be all that is required, and or one screw being left slightly on the loose side (the bolts are on the over long side) may also improve things I guess running the chassis on its own could point to the problem I have noticed that there is quite a bit of side play within the gearbox/motor mount, am I correct in thinking that axle spacers within the gearbox/motor mount will be beneficial ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
david.hill64 Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 I have noticed that there is quite a bit of side play within the gearbox/motor mount, am I correct in thinking that axle spacers within the gearbox/motor mount will be beneficial ? Sorry I have not understood this: do you mean that the gearbox can move axially? If so, then this side play needs to be removed so that the gear mesh is maintained properly. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
John K Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 Hi John, If you live in the right area, come to the Gauge O Guild Spring Show at Kettering on March 3rd and take the engine to the loco clinic (Srtabd G4). The guys there will help you get to the bottom of the poriobelm. There is also a big test track available for visitors to use. http://www.gauge0guild.com/Kettering%20Showguide.pdf John K 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share Posted February 16, 2018 Sorry I have not understood this: do you mean that the gearbox can move axially? If so, then this side play needs to be removed so that the gear mesh is maintained properly. David The simple answer is yes and its the same with the Roxey unit The gearbox/motor mount is either the same or very similar to those Roxey Mouldings sell, the gear which attaches to the axle is narrower than the gap between the two side frames of the motor mount, this allows the mount with the motor to move sideways. I have some Slater axle spacer/washers I can use to fill up the voids Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share Posted February 16, 2018 Hi John, If you live in the right area, come to the Gauge O Guild Spring Show at Kettering on March 3rd and take the engine to the loco clinic (Srtabd G4). The guys there will help you get to the bottom of the poriobelm. There is also a big test track available for visitors to use. http://www.gauge0guild.com/Kettering%20Showguide.pdf John K John Thanks for the offer, was not planning to go as I did not know the show was on, plus its a bit of a distance away. Got the electricians finishing off the house electrics and they are not only in my work room but have part of the power off as there is a fault somewhere they are trying to trace Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share Posted February 16, 2018 A big thank you to all, just got my room back from the electricians, took all the wheels out of the chassis and gave them a good clean with white spirit. Now back in with a little oil and the chassis is lightly held in the body, as tightening it up too much distorts it Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share Posted February 16, 2018 Quick update, 1.8 m curve and it happened to be a larger radius than the one I put into the piece of flexitrack I used to test the loco. Football onm soon so I will have a dgo at tidying up the brakegear tomorrow Thanks again to all who assisted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 17, 2018 Author Share Posted February 17, 2018 (edited) I have two other 7 mm work in progress locos on the go. 3-4 years ago I bought a Beattie well tank from Dave at Roxey, several things got in the way, most of all was a house move 2 years ago where most of my kits have been in storage until a week ago. I have painted the chassis now and need to reassemble it, have hit a slight glitch in attaching the coupling rods to the crossheads, in that the ends of the connecting rods are so thin I cannot find anything small enough to do the job (rivets and 16 ba bolts too thick) still will get on with the build and resolve this issue later The second is a much longer project. Its a Slaters Flatiron body and chassis, the person I bought it from has done all the hard work in stripping the paint. Its been rather poorly built, too much solder used, some beading missing etc, still at £81 inc postage well worth a punt. The chap who stripped it down said it was un-motorised and the wheels were stuck in place I bought some wheels from Slaters and found the hornblocks (which have been soldered in place) are out of true. As it happens back in October I found a set of Slaters 7 mm coupling rods (which turn out to be the correct size), on the local clubs stand (well 2 unmade sets at £1 each) at their show. Also with another lot of 7 mm spares I bought, there were a set of plastic horn blocks and guides. Currently reading my way through the instructions which Slaters provided when I bought the wheels. The chassis needs a complete strip down or certainly taken back to frames only, but I need to get a decent wattage soldering iron as my Antex 25 watt is struggling even with a big tip. Edited February 17, 2018 by hayfield Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 17, 2018 Author Share Posted February 17, 2018 Been assembling the Beattie chassis this afternoon, I had no end of meshing issues with the Roxey motor mount (too used to High Level gearboxes). Still have a chassis which when power is applied to the motor now runs fine,m moving the loco up and down a short section of track Next jobs are to fabricate a pickup system from copperclad sheet and PB strip, The front wheels have no form of retaining mechanism, this is left up to the builder. The carrier for the wheels is quite a stiff fit into the chassis, the plan is to solder a tube on top of it, then solder a sprung wire to a metal plate with a hole in it, this can be held on the front frame spacer using the screw which holds the chassis to the body, with the wire going through the tube, low tech suspension system which will also stop the wheels from falling out Next up is to continue to detail the body, This is the wreck of the flatiron, started to clean it up but need a soldering iron to go over the joints, plus shift some of the excess solder New wheels in the chassis just to see how bad it is, in need of a partial strip down. Half of one coupling rod took ages to build (5 layers in places) may invest in a milled set if one is available Still the loco is a bit more in keeping with the other club members stock for the club layout than my LSWR locos Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marshall5 Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 IIRC the coupling rods are the standard M.R. 8'x 8'6" - I got a set from Premier for my Gibson 4F, well worth it. Ray. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 (edited) With the BWT the connecting rods go on the inside of the coupling rods. Edited February 17, 2018 by N15class Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 IIRC the coupling rods are the standard M.R. 8'x 8'6" - I got a set from Premier for my Gibson 4F, well worth it. Ray. Ray Thanks I will follow this up, the rods I am making only cost me £1, so no great loss. It may be me but I just cannot see a very accurate set forthcoming if I continue making and using these Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 With the BWT the connecting rods go on the inside of the coupling rods. Peter Thank you, from an earlier thread when I started this loco build it was mentioned. There are also a couple of etched washers on the fret, though I think I will need a couple more to pack the rods out to the length of the bushes, I need to speak with Dave at Roxey as I think I am missing a couple of bits. A couple of things I am slightly unsure about the Beattie build are 1 The whistle enclosed is a double whistle, do I just remove one of them off the casting for the single whistle 2 3 x washout plugs are enclosed, none are shown on either the plan in the kit or the plan in an old Railway Modeller ( not checked the Pictorial History of SR locos) nor are there any dimensions in the instructions of where they go. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
N15class Posted February 18, 2018 Share Posted February 18, 2018 Can't help at the moment with the wash out plug position, until I get home on Wednesday. But you are right to cut one of the whistled off. I left a stub to make it look like a plug in the hole. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 18, 2018 Author Share Posted February 18, 2018 Peter Thanks, I have been looking at photos and have an idea of approximately where they go, also having issues deciding which valves go where, as the drawing in the instructions is not too detailed and seem to have one type more than what is stated in the instructions. Will just Google a few photos and make a best guess I have written down the queries I have plus a few bits I need to buy extra and will speak with Dave tomorrow Next is a deciding on whether to buy a Roxey etched LSWR bogie coach or a Slaters Maunsell one Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 19, 2018 Author Share Posted February 19, 2018 I need a new soldering iron and seen this one on eBay, like everyone don't see the point in spending £100's, on the other hand don't wand a pile of cheap and possibly dangerous electricals. As I have said need an iron to build a 7mm scale etched kit also thought a temperature controlled iron will have advantaged, Seen this Draper 61464 48w Digital Soldering Station on line https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Draper+61464+48w+Digital+Soldering+Station&oq=Draper+61464+48w+Digital+Soldering+Station&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i60.2904j0j8&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Having a well known UK brand may give me some protection, will get two or 3 more tips (medium chisel) and thought I would be paying £50 for a decent 50w iron anyway, any thoughts please and will it be up to the job for 7 mm etched brass loco and coach kits Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted February 19, 2018 Share Posted February 19, 2018 (edited) The big soldering iron debate?! I've been using one of these with happy results. (£52) https://www.rapidonline.com/atten-at938d-60w-durable-soldering-station-85-6920 Set of 10 various shaped spare tips for under a tenner here. https://www.amazon.co.uk/MagiDeal-Solder-Screwdriver-Soldering-Station/dp/B01G1MDFRA/ref=sr_1_6?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1519061850&sr=1-6&keywords=Atten+tips There are many other stations available of course...... Regards, Deano. Edited February 19, 2018 by Deano747 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 20, 2018 Author Share Posted February 20, 2018 Deano Thanks very much for the link, how do you know which tips fit what machine. They do look very interesting and 60w gives a bit more umph 11 thank you Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 20, 2018 Author Share Posted February 20, 2018 Quick update on the G6, it was much better, fine both ways and both directions on the clubs outer circuit, though on the inner circuit a bit twitchy going forward, also forgot to fix the loose front footplate step. Some of the track is not as flat as it could be, but most RTR stock runs OK on it. Must get some glass to check the squareness Still so much better than last week and the crossover/single slip I built seems to be working OK 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deano747 Posted February 21, 2018 Share Posted February 21, 2018 Deano Thanks very much for the link, how do you know which tips fit what machine. They do look very interesting and 60w gives a bit more umph 11 thank you Hi John I see you've started a separate post regarding soldering irons, but I'll answer your Q here. This link shows a list of the applicable irons for the tips.... https://www.amazon.co.uk/BF-900M-T-Soldering-Station-Cleaning/dp/B01MAY8U6V/ref=pd_sbs_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9SJ4K64RABRQ7HS15C01 I recently bought, but have not tried, an Atten 80W station from Rapidonline, (supposedly shows accurate tip temp?) but its beyond your mentioned budget. Also bought a spare set of tips for white metal/ low melt soldering only, as this should be separate from higher temp. I have an RSU also, but not cheap! Wish I'd bought one many years ago when I was 4mm modelling. I tend to use 179c which has 2% silver (Ag) and flows really well, and 145c for details. Carrs 100c for white metal. This of course is entirely personal and others will use different temp solders. (Except for the 100c, I get my solder from the above online shop.) HBO Z60 flux for everything! Maybe I shouldn't but it works for me! Always a thorough clean afterwards. A house move and renovation has put all my modelling on hold for now, but still enjoy following everyones builds/ projects on here, especially when I'm overseas with work! Regards, Deano. Note; No connection to any of the above, just a satisfied customer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted February 21, 2018 Author Share Posted February 21, 2018 Hi John I see you've started a separate post regarding soldering irons, but I'll answer your Q here. This link shows a list of the applicable irons for the tips.... https://www.amazon.co.uk/BF-900M-T-Soldering-Station-Cleaning/dp/B01MAY8U6V/ref=pd_sbs_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9SJ4K64RABRQ7HS15C01 I recently bought, but have not tried, an Atten 80W station from Rapidonline, (supposedly shows accurate tip temp?) but its beyond your mentioned budget. Also bought a spare set of tips for white metal/ low melt soldering only, as this should be separate from higher temp. I have an RSU also, but not cheap! Wish I'd bought one many years ago when I was 4mm modelling. I tend to use 179c which has 2% silver (Ag) and flows really well, and 145c for details. Carrs 100c for white metal. This of course is entirely personal and others will use different temp solders. (Except for the 100c, I get my solder from the above online shop.) HBO Z60 flux for everything! Maybe I shouldn't but it works for me! Always a thorough clean afterwards. A house move and renovation has put all my modelling on hold for now, but still enjoy following everyones builds/ projects on here, especially when I'm overseas with work! Regards, Deano. Note; No connection to any of the above, just a satisfied customer. Deano Thanks, we moved house 2 years ago and for the past year have been building an extension which includes a room for me to model in and play trains (far better than a shed) I have soldered quite a bit in track and loco/stock building in 4 mm scale and 0 16.5, but found my little Antex 25 watt irons (have 2) now out of their depth. I have also learnt that tip size matters, small for delicate jobs and large when heat is required. At the moment the bulk of what I will do will still be in 4 mm and my Antex was fine building a Roxey 7 mm Beattie well tank, but a much larger Slaters 0-6-4T Flatiron need far more heat I don't need a top notch professional job, but on the other hand don't want to buy anything which might be either dangerous or inferior. Listened to what other have been saying and have come across this lot http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CSI-PREMIER75W-Digital-Temperature-Controlled-Solder-Station-75W-Soldering-Iron/222391385129?epid=1743239949&hash=item33c78f3c29:g:t-IAAOSw2VJVfzht Thought I might give them a call and try and suss the company out, they do both a range of stations and parts. I would much rather buy from a company which has a full service backup and been around a bit rather than someone who has just imported a shipment and has no back up facilities, that's why I went for Draper, as far as I am concerned bona fide company at budget/middle end of the market. Certainly do not want a gas torch (though I have a cooking gadget which will do the job) Thanks for the link which I will follow up 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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