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Removing Crests from Bachmann and Hornby BR(SR) Mk 1 Stock


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I am trying to remove the BR crests on Hornby BR(SR) coaches whilst leaving the underlying paintwork intact.

Does any member know of a process which will remove the BR crest on Hornby green Mk1 coaches which would not affect the paintwork?

I would also like to achieve the same with a Bachmann green Mk1 if possible without repainting.

 

I have very gently used a cocktail stick on a Hornby coach but this has left a shiny patch. The coach now requires either repainting or weathering to cover this mark - please see photo.

Thanks in anticipation.

post-28573-0-77367000-1519655579_thumb.jpg

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I'd start with something less vicious, maybe a cotton bud with some T-Cut on it, or brasso if you have some instead, or indeed any other metal polish.

 

At a push you could also use toothpaste, but the thing is be gentle and take your time.

 

Apply chosen fluid to cotton bud and work lightly in small circles in and around the printing that you're wanting to remove.

 

I understand IPA (not the beer) and car windscreen washer fluid can be effective as well, but I've never tried them so can;t recommend.

 

There will always be a slightly polished area, especially if the base paint is very 'flat', where you've removed the printing. I find toothpaste leaves a more flat finish, because it is slightly more abrasive so you have to take (even more) time not to overdo it.

 

Rgds

Edited by leopardml2341
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I recommend IPA applied with a Tamiya cotton swab. These are much more dense than a cotton bud and have nice fine points to them, allowing more accurate destruction. You will be left with a shiny surface, but that can be disguised with some matt varnish.

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Olive oil is gentle and has worked for me on Bachmann blue/grey coaches when changing the numbers

 

Next up before trying solvents or abrasives try something alkaline - either model strip https://www.wonderlandmodels.com/brands/modelstrip/ or oven magic oven cleaner

 

Phil

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DON'T use IPA for this unless the coach is unpainted self-coloured plastic.

 

IPA and other alcohol-based products are solvents for the acrylic paints in use these days and you will find the cotton bud turning body-colour very quickly with corresponding surface damage to the model.

 

I found this out the hard way using IPA on a Bachmann model and, for safety's sake, I make the assumption that Hornby use similar paint.

 

IPA is for cleaning track and degreasing brass before applying primer.

 

For this job T-Cut is safe but will leave a shiny patch where it has been used. Lighter fuel works too.

 

John

Edited by Dunsignalling
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Rubbed very gently at the other crest with lighter fluid. This eventually removed the crest leaving just a shiny patch which I was able to hide by respraying the surrounding area and lightly weathering.

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Perhaps the topic here is pretty much the same thing I am currently trying to work out! So, I hope you don’t mind if I follow up for asking concerning a somewhat different goal.

 

I am sure you will all have seen railway stock where previous lettering (in the shape of adhesive characters) has been removed for any reason, but where a „ghost“ image of that lettering remains visible on the base paint due to it having been protected from sunlight and weather by that lettering.

 

Now, I was wondering whether this kind of effect could also be achieved deliberately on models. I have removed lettering on various models in the past, generally with the aim of applying new lettering using decals. However, I do not remember there to have ever been any trace of the old lettering remaining visible.

 

I normally used rubbing alcohol for this purpose, but perhaps other solutions might be better suited for what I outlined above?

 

I’d be happy to hear your thoughts. Cheers! :yes:

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Cotton bud with white spirits, Gently rub it off or T cut.

I find cotton buds cover too wide an area and lack control, soaking everything in sight and risking damage to the surrounding paint, I use a cocktail stick which lives in some T Cut so it is completely soaked in it, it is about half the length it started at but still works well if very slowly.

 

I think this is a fine example of doing the job correctly or doing the job quickly!

Edited by royaloak
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