Finney 7 Drummond

[PAD]

Thanks Pete.

 

Each to his own.

 

Cheers,

Peter

[Jack P]

This is coming along really nicely!

 

You say it will be painted black, I assume BR black, but I hope for Wartime black,

 

Which black did you mean?

[Petebe]

Hi Jack

 

Thank you for your kind words.

 

As I'm modelling late 50s early 60s I'm afraid it's going to be BR black. 

 

Pete  

[Petebe]

More progress 

 

The cab roof was the next job. There is a jig in the etching to which you bend into shape. I then rolled the roof with negative rolled ends. I did the latter in the vice with a plastic rod.

 

 

 

Cut off the jig frame and clean up. A little filler on the inside before painting and Robert's our Dad's brother. The roof is designed to be removable. 

 

 

 

On to the coal bunker.

 

I first tacked the inner section from underneath, then using one of my Printer spaces to ensure it was at right angel to the foot plate ( this is where they excel, where there is little space) the sides were then soldered.

 

 

The overlay was then soldered in place on the inside within the slots making a very nice job of the outer edges. Again I used the vice and plastic rod method for the curve.

 

 

 

And with the roof on.

 

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

[Petebe]

Sorry but I'm going to have a little whinge.

 

When I bought the Duchess from David Hill @ Gladiator he told me about Pad (Peter) And that he too was building the Duchess, and that I should follow his thread. Too which I did and very very happy I did.

 

She wouldn't be half as good as she is without Peter's thread/input. 

 

Whinge 1:  Looking around this site and then Western Thunder I came across 7mm Mick and his build of the Drummond M7 and yes it was the Finney 7. The pictures he took during his build are the same pictures

 

used in the instructions from Finney 7 in the kit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!  The pics are a lot clearer in Mick's thread and if I had found his thread sooner I would not have made the mistake of which I'm not telling. 

 

As I have always said "A picture is worth a 1000 plus words, also some very good tips on building the kit.

 

So if you read this Richard (and I will be having this conversation with you next time I see you) why did you not tell me about 7mm Mike on Western Thunder. Surely the more info the better the build.

 

Whinge 2: The photos of the lost wax castings do not correspond with the ones in the kit. To someone like me who is still learning the names makes to frustrating times looking and trying to identify the bits. 

 

 

 

 

As you can see they do not correspond. B8 is not an injector valve as stated, in fact can anybody identify the injector valve from the photos on the instructions? ( I know there are two, some trees are doubled)

 

I did find then in the end after looking at lots of pics of M7 on line.  Frist photo of the lost wax in kit, middle tree on the top. 

 

There are a few mistakes within the instructions all of which are easy to see. Lack of proof reading before the printers methinks.

 

It's a shame because the quality of the metal work is second to none and I am thoroughly enjoying this build.

 

These are very expensive kits and all aspects should be of the same high std.

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

[Petebe]

A little more progress (been doing DIY about the house)

 

Bunker and buffers done. Now looking like a Locomotive. 

 

 

 

 I'll glue a bit of plastic over the holes  

 

 

 

The dome and chimney are not fixed and will be painted first before gluing in place. 

 

I spent a day in Swanage yesterday, the idea was to take some pictures of her. I phoned the day before only to be told that she is in bits!!!!!! Her boiler has been removed and sent away. Heyho I went anyway and so glad I did.

 

Cut a long story short, I meet an old boy (I'm sure me wouldn't mind being called an old boy) called Bob. He was full of info and knowledge and had also driven her. He also meet Martin Finney when he came there to take pictures 

 

and measurements. He also gave me a booklet called "From nine elms to waterloo" Full of pics and information. 

 

On the back of this some alterations will be required. I will explain them as and when I do them.

 

A lesson I should have learn by now. 

 

DO YOUR RESEARCH FIRST BEFORE STARTING.

 

Bless    

 

 

More to come

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

 

[N15class]

Looks good so far. I have one in the UK to collect from my daughter next time we are in the UK.

 

Why do you fix chimney and dome after painting? I would be wary of the paint letting go of the brass. 

 

Are you making a Pull Push fitted one? As you have the drivers side tank front handrail offset?

[Petebe]

Hi N15class     Peter?

 

I want the chimney etc to look as though they are separate from the boiler and I have a way of fixing without damage to paint work. Also easier to get a better finish. We shall see.

 

Yes I do intend to fit Pull-Push. There is nothing in the kit so I'm trying to find out where I can buy all of the componence from. 

 

Slaters do a Westinghouse pump. I need the cylinder fitted to the front of the tank and the reservoir fitted to the top of the tank.

 

Also does anyone know what the large barrel (looks like a 45 gal drum) fitted beneath the smoke box to the rear of the front buffer beam is for?

 

It would be very helpful if anyone out there can help with pics/drawings on the Pull-Push for the M7. Most of the pics in books/net are very hard to see where all the pipes fit etc.

 

Thanks

 

Pete

[N15class]

Hi N15class     Peter?

 

I want the chimney etc to look as though they are separate from the boiler and I have a way of fixing without damage to paint work. Also easier to get a better finish. We shall see.

 

Yes I do intend to fit Pull-Push. There is nothing in the kit so I'm trying to find out where I can buy all of the componence from. 

 

Slaters do a Westinghouse pump. I need the cylinder fitted to the front of the tank and the reservoir fitted to the top of the tank.

 

Also does anyone know what the large barrel (looks like a 45 gal drum) fitted beneath the smoke box to the rear of the front buffer beam is for?

 

It would be very helpful if anyone out there can help with pics/drawings on the Pull-Push for the M7. Most of the pics in books/net are very hard to see where all the pipes fit etc.

 

Thanks

 

Pete

Have a look at Laurie Griffins website I do believe  he does a set of castings for it. Not sure if its a dedicated set for the M7 but will be adaptable. DJB did one which I have used, it was specifically for the M7. I have the instructions somewhere. I will post for you later. The part or kit can sometimes be found on Ebay.

 

I look forward to seeing hoe the chimney and dome work out.

[Petebe]

I had looked at Laurie Griffin but couldn't find anything about push/pull, so I e-mailed him. He got straight back with the cat No 21-025.

 

Yay, It arrived today. And it includes instructions too.

 

 

However some of it is a bit vague but he does mention a old copy of Model Railway Journal No 136. John Edwards has written an article with photos describing the fitting of these parts.

 

Unfortunately no longer available. You can get copies of just about all past issues apart from 136 2002.

 

 

Can anyone help. I know you just can't put it up on the site copy right and all, but pm then e-mail maybe. 

 

Fingers crossed

 

Pete

 

 

[N15class]

Looks very much the same as the DJB one. Ok did just look for the instructions. Not where they are supposed to be. Will look tonight as it showed where all the plumbing went. But not the linkage to the regulator. Which I guessed about. Hope these may be of use. There are a few pictures on Google if you search there.

 

[Petebe]

Peter thank you very much. These pics are so very helpful.

 

The only thing I need now is where to position the main reservoir behind the buffer beam. I need a front on view to see the width and height.

 

I've Google myself to death!!!  All the pics seem to be on the wrong side or so poor it's difficult to make out.

 

Great build by the way.

 

Once again thank you.

 

Pete

[Petebe]

Happy RMWEB birthday to me. It's been a year since I joined and has been a very enlightening journey so thank you all for your inputs.

 

Ok back to my M7

 

On all the pics I've found of 30053 there is a plate riveted to the front left hand tank adj the lubricator. This had to be replicated, not easy so many rivets and all very close together.

 

The first attempts where not good!!!  Just one rivet not in line or spaced stood out like a sore thumb. Ended up using my loupes and a scalpel to mark everything out.

 

I bought this bad boy from an auction cost me £25. Money very well spent.

 

Marking out     

 

 

And soldered in place       

 

This one was Mk Vl  Happy with this one.

 

Unfortunately the lubricator is incorrect for 30053. All pics from the 50s to the present show the lubricator to have 4 outlets and at least 2 to the rear. I have found at least 2 more M7's with the same type so it's not just 30053.

 

I've asked around and nobody can help with supplying one (still waiting a reply from Andy at Ragstone. Not holding my breath.)

 

This means I'll have to scratch build them.

 

On the pull/push System.. I'm going with Peter's cab linkage. Does anyone know if the cab actuator was electric or air. I'm guessing it was electric and was connected to the electric box adj the regulator cylinder front of tank.

 

Pete

 

 

 

 

 

[Horsetan]

....On all the pics I've found of 30053 there is a plate riveted to the front left hand tank adj the lubricator. This had to be replicated, not easy so many rivets and all very close together.

 

The first attempts where not good!!!  Just one rivet not in line or spaced stood out like a sore thumb. Ended up using my loupes and a scalpel to mark everything out.

 

I realised had problems with my eyesight when pressing out the rivets on the bogie frames for the Finney A4, and that's in 4mm scale with the rivet positions ready-marked! Eyesight hasn't got any better since.

[Dave Holt]

 

On the pull/push System.. I'm going with Peter's cab linkage. Does anyone know if the cab actuator was electric or air. I'm guessing it was electric and was connected to the electric box adj the regulator cylinder front of tank.

 

Pete

Pete,

I would be very surprised if anything other than the bell code system would have been electrically operated. The only power source was batteries so any electro-mechanical actuators would flatten them quickly and become inoperable. I think air or vacuum would be the most likely power source.

Dave.

[N15class]

I would think the actuator for the regulator is the fitting to the front of the tank, operated by air. The linkage to the electrical box is just for indicating position within the driving cab of carriage. Well that's my take on it anyway.

[Petebe]

Horsetan

 

Yeah I was seeing double for a while and that's cross double 

 

Dave Peter

 

Ok so I wasn't even close eh kick a man when he's down...………..I do!!!!!!

 

Thanks guys  I understand the electric bit now, that makes sense. 

 

Two pipes go into the cab, one from the small reservoir, and one from the bottom of the...………...Oh wait ……….ummm…...regulator operating cylinder    what a C**k  Well I think 

 

that answers that. The regulator is operated by air/vacuum as the cylinder rises and lowers. DER

 

I now have to find out what it looked like and how it fitted in the cab. Any and all ideas greatly appreciated.

 

Can't believe how stupid I am. Try reading instruction more than once.

 

Thanks   Pete  

[Petebe]

Just a quick one.

 

I got a pull/push kit from Laurie Griffin and you can see the front reservoir fitted in place. It just doesn't look right, It's far too small. (and no it's not the reservoir fitted to the tank)

 

 

 

Has anyone got the correct dimensions so I can scratch build one or is it a case of making the best from photos?

 

I have looked at Pete's (N15Class) build and his looks right.

 

Thanks guys

 

Pete

 

 

[Petebe]

Hi all

 

Been a while so many things to do.

 

Have been scratch building the Lubricators as all ready discussed the ones in the kit are incorrect for 30053. These lubs were fitted to other M7s. Had to buy some bits from Roxey

 

and Dave was very helpful. Gave me a photo (which he took) of 30055 also with the same lub.

 

I am working from photos so some of the build is best guess!!!!!

 

I started with a square brass rod, filled and cut out to form the filler box.

 

 

 

  

 

Next the back sections 

 

 

All the holes are drilled 0.4mm for the copper pipes.

 

Next was to solder them together on to a bit of brass sheet which will be bent 90 deg to form the bracket. It needs cleaning up still.

 

  

 

Next was to make the unions. Pretty straight forward using 1.2mm tube. a couple of strokes with a file and turn. Then cut a slot around with a Razor saw.

 

 

Then solder all pipes into place. Dam tricky but got there in the end. Also made the fixing by filing a bit of brass and added a rivet head.

 

 

 

 

I put a 12 BA stud and a locating pin so I can bolt it on after painting.

 

Now in situ.

 

 

 

I'm quite pleased with the way it turned out, but it maybe a tad to big. 

 

Just have to finish the other one now.

 

Pete

 

 

[Horsetan]

Lovely.

[Rob Pulham]

Lovely.

 Wot he said - Most impressed.

[Horsetan]

...Have been scratch building the Lubricators as all ready discussed the ones in the kit are incorrect for 30053. ....

 

*notes this down for the 4mm kit*

[Petebe]

Got me a copy of MRJ No 136  A big thank you to Ian (HAL NAIL)

 

Does anybody know what happened to Richard Bollen or Shedmaster? All I get from the net is a list of garden shed suppliers !!!!!

 

 

Thanks

 

Pete

[Horsetan]

….Shedmaster? All I get from the net is a list of garden shed suppliers !!!!!

 

You're lucky it's not a dealer in shonky secondhand cars.

[N15class]

Shedmaster are now sold under Laurie Griffin. Kits and castings.