Stuck!

[Calimero]

Perhaps a bit of a bone question but are there any recommended types of glue/cement/solvents that you use and/or swear by?

 

I've some plastic kits to start making from Peco Buffer Stops, Cambrian & Parkside wagon kits, DC Kits and some scratch building too. I've not done this for many years and am I fine with a bog standard Humbrol or Revel solvent or am I better off obtaining something else?

 

Thank you for your help.

[brossard]

The glues/solvents you list should be be fine for the kits.  Not sure about the Peco buffer stops though, perhaps someone will advise.  I tend to use Testors gel and liquid because that seems to be the most common here.

 

To be certain, why not test on some kit sprue?

 

John

[Andy Hayter]

Humbrol and Revell solvents are fine for the plastic kits.  They use  moderately aggressive solvents, so for fine details I would also get hold of some Limonene which is less aggressive but still works fine.  If you have the bottles with the brush in the lid, I would recommend ditching the brush which generally delivers far too much solvent and leaves the probability that it will run under your fingers and leave a fingerprint impression in the plastic.  Use a 000 paint brush instead - it does not need to be a new one, I usually promote my brushes to solvent when they have lost half their bristles.

 

IIRC The Peco Buffer stops are made from Nylon and you need a glue rather than a solvent - epoxy, superglue or evostick types will work.

[crompton 33]

Humbrol and Revell solvents will not work on DC kits . You need to use Butanone Solvent.  I have used Humbrol on my  DC kits in the passed.  They just  full apart.

[Calimero]

Limonene

Any particular brand?

 

glue rather than a solvent - epoxy, superglue or evostick types will work.

Any particular brands?

 

Butanone Solvent

Is there a brand out there? An EBay search brings up large amounts of chemicals!

[gobbler]

For most of my scratch building I've turned to using Tamiya extra thin.

 

The brush supplied with the pot is small as well.

 

Scott

[Andy Hayter]

Limonene and Butanone are chemicals so any supplier should do, provided they are supplying pure and not diluted solvent.  Check the descriptions.

 

Tamiya thin is my current chosen favourite - which is driven by availability rather than brand loyalty.  However, the brush is huge when used for fine detail.

[5050]

And don't forget that Mek-Pak is still available (isn't it?).  I buy my solvent adhesives at exhibitions from Eileens Emporium, Squires, Hobby Holidays etc. in the larger size bottles.  One tip is to stick a bottle onto a square of thick card, MDF, ply etc. so that it won't fall over if you catch it with your sleeve, elbow etc.  I used to buy the bigger bottles and then transfer smaller quantities to a smaller bottle for use on the workbench.

[timbowilts]

Your “handle” gives no clue as to where you live? That will have a bearing on what you can get hold of?

 

Tim T

[Derek Russan]

There are many 'solvent' adhesives on the market. Most are now liquid and can be applied with a brush. All branded items will work on Styrene kits but very few will work with ABS or other "Plastics". For ABS you will need Butanone (MEK) or Dichloromethane (EMA Plastic Weld). Note MEK PAK is not MEK and does not work on ABS.

 

All the above are must be used in well ventilated areas.

 

We are forever issuing the same advice at exhibitions.

[Calimero]

Thanks all for the advice and help, haven't things changed since the humble old tube of glue!

[Wickham Green]

Thanks all for the advice and help, haven't things changed since the humble old tube of glue!

Tube ? ........ what about the the squidgy/rubbery capsule of plastic cement that was included in every Airfix kit at one time - and was guaranteed to spread itself over your clumsy fingers and, of course, over every component the moment you even thought about snipping the end off the spout !

 

My latest adhesive 'discovery' is one of the 'canopy glues'* the aeromodellers use : it looks like PVA and is just as easy to spread - but it dries to a flexible layer like good ol' Evo-Stik - completely colourless though...... has no 'clouding' effects on clear plastic - doesn't seem to cause warping to styrene sheets ............. just used it to apply brass overlays to a plastic coach body : dead simple ! ................... time will tell whether it discolours, or dries out & loses its grip eventually - but so far, so good !

 

*Glue & Glaze - but there are others.

[Nile]

Proper glue!

Found in an old kit bought off ebay, and still liquid.

 

 

[Dunsignalling]

For plastic kits I now use Deluxe Materials "Plastic Magic" almost exclusively, brilliant for the job if a bit pricy.

 

When scratch-building (especially structures where a lot gets used up) I use Butanone, aka Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone (MEK), aka Ethyl-Methyl Ketone (EMK), and which is available in small bottles under various names e.g. Plastic Weld. I get mine in half litre cans from plumbing trade suppliers and decant.

 

Bear in mind that Mek-Pak hasn't been MEK for many years, but I can't remember what it actually is nowadays, though I recognise the smell. It works fine on polystyrene but not on some of the harder plastics, like ABS.  

 

John   

[Trainshed Terry]

"Limonene"

 

Isn't what they use to detect blood in C.S.I. ? 

 

Hat coat running for the door.

 

Terry.

[Wickham Green]

For plastic kits I now use Deluxe Materials "Plastic Magic" almost exclusively, brilliant for the job if a bit pricy.

 

When scratch-building (especially structures where a lot gets used up) I use Butanone, aka Methyl-Ethyl-Ketone (MEK), aka Ethyl-Methyl Ketone (EMK), and which is available in small bottles under various names e.g. Plastic Weld. I get mine in half litre cans from plumbing trade suppliers and decant.

 

Bear in mind that Mek-Pak hasn't been MEK for many years, but I can't remember what it actually is nowadays, though I recognise the smell. It works fine on polystyrene but not on some of the harder plastics, like ABS.  

 

John   

Solvent bottles may be small - but they're generally tall and far too easy to knock over ................. especially when you're trying to remove the child ( & adult modeller ) proof cap with one hand while attempting to keep components in register with the other ................................ yep !- speaking from experience !!