sb67 Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 (edited) Thanks Phil, I like the look of that. :-) What colours did you use for the underframe? Steve. Edited March 11, 2018 by sb67 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 11, 2018 Author Share Posted March 11, 2018 Paint was still a bit wet when I took the photo but I've given the underframe a wash of a mix of Matt Black and Leather brown with a bit of weathering powder added and the roof of a wash of Matt Black and a touch of Leather as a base for any more weathering. Steve. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phill Dyson (onslaught832) Posted March 11, 2018 Share Posted March 11, 2018 Thanks Phil, I like the look of that. :-) What colours did you use for the underframe? Steve. Dirty black followed by track grime Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted March 12, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 12, 2018 Hi Steve. I tend to steer clear of washes as I feel they look...well...too much like paint as opposed to grime. A benefit of the powders is the texture they impart. I apologise for posting more photos of my efforts but donso to illustrate my point. Rob.. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 (edited) Thanks Rob, that does look good, the loco and the tender looks fantastic. Looking at the wagon pics you posted, do you cover a whole area, mist on the varnish then when dry remove what you want using the pen? Would you then repeat the process until you're happy? I've seen some stuff on youtube about using humbrol powders and matt cote which was interesting. Steve. Edited March 12, 2018 by sb67 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted March 12, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 12, 2018 Hi Steve, I tend to apply the powders in one go, colour by colour. I start with the iron oxide then tone it down using smoke then black to shade. I will apply a touch more rust then to give a variation before sealing with varnish. I may also add white to lighten and exagerate the shading. The varnish itself gives texture as I just dust it on from about 12/18 inches. Sometimes I will just leave it until the following day, fresh pair of eyes etc...before finishing it off. I like to have time and not feel the need to rush. Rob 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 12, 2018 Author Share Posted March 12, 2018 (edited) Ok thanks Rob, would that be the same technique for a wagon/loco roof? Whilst I am pleased with my brake van so far I see what you mean as the roof just looks like paint. I added some powder to the underframe which has give it some texture. Steve. Edited March 12, 2018 by sb67 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted March 13, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 13, 2018 (edited) Morning Steve. Regarding roofs, no. I don't use a pen on anything other than wagon bodies. I add shading to raised detail such as rain strips or vents and final touch can be a small amount of white which combines with the base colour...so smoke becomes 'light smoke' to emphasise things. The texture on the roofes comes from the powders and the dusting of varnish. As an aside, I use a selection of make up brushes rather than paint brushes to apply the powders. See here. Rob. Edited March 13, 2018 by NHY 581 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted March 13, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 13, 2018 Thanks Rob, that does look good, the loco and the tender looks fantastic. Looking at the wagon pics you posted, do you cover a whole area, mist on the varnish then when dry remove what you want using the pen? Would you then repeat the process until you're happy? I've seen some stuff on youtube about using humbrol powders and matt cote which was interesting. Steve. Sorry Steve I didn't answer your question here. Yes I cover the whole area, seal, then remove with the pen until I was happy with the overall look. A bit at a time. There is a fine balance between removing paint and exposing plastic/ removing numbers etc.........I know this..... Rob. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 13, 2018 Author Share Posted March 13, 2018 Thanks Rob, that has given me a bit of inspiration, I'm away for a week and I'll try and get to a model shop and pick up some stuff and have a go. Steve. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Metr0Land Posted March 13, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 13, 2018 As an aside, I use a selection of make up brushes rather than paint brushes to apply the powders. Rob. I find Pound shops are a good source for sets of cheap make-up brushes Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Phil Bullock Posted March 17, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 17, 2018 Agree with T'other Phil - that's where a thin wash of dirty black comes in , it runs in to all the relief details such as planks and gives you lowlights. Dry brushing generally picks up the higher surfaces. Ideally you use both....but if you start off with a thin wash and then continue to brush it when it is nearly dry you can get both at once.....dirt in relief detail and streaking on the surface Phil 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 (edited) Been practicing using powders and sealing with varnish, I'm going to try a different method on the other half of the brake van roof. I'm really pleased with the van roof but the brake van not so sure, maybe I put too much varnish on when sealling? Also Rob, do you have any trouble with the spray varnish in the tin clogging? I've only used it on these wagons and it's stopped coming out as though it's run out of propellant, maybe I've got a dodgy tin? Steve. Edited March 19, 2018 by sb67 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 Weathered the other half using the same mix of Humbrol powders but, using a technique from a Humbrol 'how to' video I mixed them with thinners and Matt Cote, I hadn't given that bit of the roof any matt varnish first so I don't know if that made a difference but as you can see there's no texture at all. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted March 19, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2018 (edited) Hi Steve. Light dust of spray varnish. Let it dry then apply the powders. Now it looks as if you have brushed it on as you would say paint, ie brush strokes. Try using a large make up brush and 'daub' it on. With regard to the can clogging , no idea. Try placing can in warm water to help it flow. It could be a rogue can mind you. Rob. Edited March 19, 2018 by NHY 581 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 Thanks Rob, that's what I did with the other half of the roof, I much prefer that effect. I'll try that with the can. Steve Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold NHY 581 Posted March 19, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 19, 2018 That roof looks great, Steve. I just work the colours until they look right. In the main I use Iron oxide, Smoke, black with lesser amounts of white, rust and dark earth. Same principles apply. Use iron oxide first the apply smoke to tone down then black to shade. Lighten with small amounts of white but only the centre section. Leave the edges to create shading. Add bits of rust over iron oxide to give a bit of contrast. Seal with varnish.......light coat!!!!!! Too much and jours of work lost.....I know this......I really do..... I hope the below image helps to explain this better... Rob. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 Thanks Rob, that explains everything. Nice photo, the loco looks great. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 That roof looks great, Steve. I just work the colours until they look right. In the main I use Iron oxide, Smoke, black with lesser amounts of white, rust and dark earth. Same principles apply. Use iron oxide first the apply smoke to tone down then black to shade. Lighten with small amounts of white but only the centre section. Leave the edges to create shading. Add bits of rust over iron oxide to give a bit of contrast. Seal with varnish.......light coat!!!!!! Too much and jours of work lost.....I know this......I really do..... I hope the below image helps to explain this better... Rob. Been trying your techniques Rob and when you say a light pass with the spray varnish you mean LIGHT, it doesn't take much to lose the variation in colour! Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
doctor quinn Posted March 21, 2018 Share Posted March 21, 2018 (edited) 29062933_10216608843640498_1004597639422935040_n.jpg One question, what colour would the platform bits be at the end? Steve. Hi Steve, Looking good, the weights on the end platforms were concrete and seem to have had a metal fame around the edge to hold them in place so the tops want to be a warm grey/beige colour. There are quite a few pics on Paul Bartlett'ssite, this one shows the ends quite well http://paulbartlett.zenfolio.com/brbrakevan500 I've had Humbrol Matt varnish clog the nozzle, cleaning it with rubbing alcohol helps but I moved over to Tamiya for acrylic sprays. Nick Edited March 21, 2018 by doctor quinn Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 Thanks Nick, there's some good pictures on there! I'm off to Ally Pally on Sat so I might pick up some other spray varnishes. Steve. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 Put my powders on the brake van and sealed with a VERY LIGHT coat of varnish. Steve. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 I was taking the powders of using a fibre glass pen and in places it was actually burnishing the model giving a bit of a sheen, also on the window bit, ducket?, the varnish I put on to allow the powders to stay had not stuck to the original paint work so a big chunk came off :-( I've tried to put powders back on and it all looks a bit messy now, not sure how to rescue this. Steve. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sb67 Posted March 21, 2018 Author Share Posted March 21, 2018 I'm a bit happier with the other side although the fibreglass pen seemed to polish the paint work instead of scratch it, I ended up using a brush and thinners to remove the powders. Think I've managed to rescue this side using the same method of removing the powders with a brush. I'll leave well alone for a couple of days now. Steve. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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