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Simple home-made pointwork, for micro and small layouts

Points scratchbuilt DIY cheaply easily




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#26 brossard

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 19:10

Love the video Jim.  I'm intrigued by the turnout throws, are they a commercial product or did you make them?  Like the uncoupling on the fly - I can just imagine the chaos if I tried that.

 

You've got me thinking now.

 

John





#27 hayfield

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 19:37

Take my hat off to those who use Templot, its not for me though

 

I spent longer trying to design one point on Templot than it took to draw out and build 19 points by hand.  Life is far too short

 

Its about 4 clicks on a mouse, its an automated program !!!


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#28 martin_wynne

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 20:13

Continually telling someone on his own thread

 

A fundamental misunderstanding there. No-one owns a thread or has his own thread. That's what the Blogs section of RMweb is for. This section of RMweb is a Forum. That means that you can start a new thread but that is all you can do. After that anyone can contribute to it and it goes wherever the contributors take it. There would be no point in having two separate sections of RMweb if they both operated the same way.

 

And I'm not telling Jim things. I'm telling Google. Bearing in mind that like all RMweb content it will be indexed on Google and available for 100 years to everyone on the planet.

 

There is a big difference between posting on a public web site and replying to a personal email.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.



#29 JimRead

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 20:27

Hello John,
 
Thanks for the nice comment I did wonder if anyone would ask about that.
 
I will explain, on previous layouts I used the wire in the tube caper and switches to change the frog polarity.
I did think about using some Hornby point lever's I'd got and made a moving base for one of them from brass, but then decided that I didn't like them very much.
 
I thought and thought about what to do and then recalled seeing some white point levers on the Selsey Tramway. I wondered if I should do the same in some way or other.
 
I came up with this
 
2vipnbd.jpg
Just as a trial I soldered some nickel sliver wire to the tie bar and used the tube to steady it, I then bashed the tube a bit at both ends to make the movement a bit stiffer, looks OK, works a treat and cost £0.00
 
You may be interested in the simple frog switch
 
24148xe.jpg
A loop of copper wire under the board stripped from some twin and earth and in contact with one blade at a time, another bit of wire to the frog and there's the switch, if the contact fails I bend the copper a little bit, again works a treat and cost £0.00.
 
I have great fun in thinking up ways not to spend money.
 
Cheers

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#30 martin_wynne

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 20:35

24148xe.jpg

 

Hi Jim,

 

Great to see a Barry Slip on a small layout.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.


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#31 JimRead

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 20:58

Hello Martin,
 
Thanks for the nice comment good of you.
 
I first saw one in the Selsey Tramway book and always wanted to incorporate one into a layout.
 
The one in the pic above was converted from the single slip I had on my Muckton layout and took to shows for a couple of years 
 
Here's the 'before' pic
 
j5f1gj.jpg
I altered it to a BS because I couldn't find an SS in any of the light railway books I've got and I wanted to have something that looked reasonable and cheap for a little backwater terminal.
 
Cheers
 
[edit] Ohh and 4 lines on some A4 paper and the cane trammel :-)

Edited by JimRead, 16 March 2018 - 21:03 .

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#32 F-UnitMad

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 21:02

Jim isn't only saying "this is what I did". He is also suggesting others should do the same. .

(Bold added) Sorry to be pedantic but having re-read through Jim's posts carefully I can't find the word "should" in any of them. The words "could" "might" or "can" would be more appropriate in your sentence.

Another alternative at the planning stage is something I did for one of my O Scale layouts when I wanted sharp-radius points; I photocopied an old Lima O point, about 24-inch radius! Then I used the photocopy as a template in the usual manner. I also ground down the switch blades & frog rails (code 100) with a workshop bench grinder to remove most of the metal, saved hours of faffing about with files.
The end results looked far better than the Lima point itself, and worked just fine.

IMG_0115.JPG

Edited by F-UnitMad, 16 March 2018 - 21:05 .


#33 martin_wynne

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 21:22

Sorry to be pedantic but having re-read through Jim's posts carefully I can't find the word "should" in any of them. The words "could" "might" or "can" would be more appropriate in your sentence

 

Well yes, maybe you are right. The words "you should" have shades of meaning from a forceful command to a polite suggestion, according to context. But the first 4 words of Jim's title for this topic are "Make your own points", so it is obviously his intention that others will follow his suggestions.

 

Also he has posted this in a section of RMweb called "Handbuilt Track and Templot" which is primarily focused on finescale track building. Maybe Jim it would have been better to post about your lovely little layout in one of the layout building or modelling sections?

 

cheers,

 

Martin. 



#34 JimRead

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 21:24

Hello F-UnitMad,

 

That point looks great and knowing what you do I bet it works a treat, fair play.

 

Hello all,
 
Gert the German chap whose been working to save Carl Arendts archive has got the archive up, earlier today the site was not working, though that may have been due to a lot of traffic.
 
 
124 posts going back to 2002 a golden mine of information going back to 2002.
 
One of the people I found on there was Colin French whose layouts inspired me to have a go
 
rrtufq.jpg
This is his Ledsam Street layout.
He lives in Ipswich and I was at the Hitchin O Gauge show a couple of years ago and so was he, it was great to be able to thank him for the inspiration.
 
Cheers

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#35 roythebus

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 21:24

Our regular track-basher Hayfield has posted several items on here about making points. 

 

I've used Templot and am still getting to grips with it, but having said that, I've also been making my own track for well over 50 years, long before computers and Templot were readily available. Basically if the method you use works for you, then fine.

 

Some of the finest early layouts appeared to be huge bits of curtain rail nailed to wooden sleepers, and the locos were clockwork. But they worked and were often worked more prototypically than a lot of more recent efforts.

 

Back in the late 1970s I was put in charge of the new MRC 00 layout "New Annington", a huge exhibition layout 26'x16', with lots of points, double junctions and the like. The only track templates I had were some of the old Kings Cross range of point plans which were modified to suit the layout. Track was finescale bullhead with pcb sleepers. It was the first time I'd built any quantity of track, but I did, and it worked. Cutting all the sleepers myself was a challenge!



#36 JimRead

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 21:30

Hello Martin,
 
I had a post about making free web sites moved from 'tips' to web sites most of which is not about making one.
Oh dear I thought and looked around for a forum for handmade track and saw yours.
I do say this with great respect to you perhaps you should alter the wording from 'and' to 'using' it would make it much clearer.
 
Cheers

Edited by JimRead, 16 March 2018 - 21:31 .

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#37 martin_wynne

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 21:31

Hi Jim,

 

I have edited the title of this topic to something more descriptive of the actual content.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.



#38 JimRead

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 21:39

Hello Martin,

 

I have changed it around a little to this "Simple home-made points for micro and small layouts" to reflect what it is going to be about.

One does get a lot of posts that digress I know but I do feel obliged to answer them as best I can.

I will I promise get back to what the thread is about as soon as I can'

 

Cheers


Edited by JimRead, 16 March 2018 - 21:41 .

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#39 martin_wynne

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 21:43

Oh dear I thought and looked around for a forum for handmade track and saw yours. I do say this with great respect to you perhaps you should alter the wording from 'and' to 'using' it would make it much clearer.

 

Hi Jim,

 

It's not my forum, RMweb belongs to Andy Y. I don't have any control over the naming of the sections.

 

In truth I would prefer this section didn't mention Templot in the title because it has its own forum at http://85a.co.uk/forum/ , and I would then be freed from the obligation to monitor this section and respond to Templot-related content.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.



#40 JimRead

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 21:48

Hello Martin,

 

Andy has helped me a few times once when the Royal Photographic Society needed some help with their forum which was being invaded by the unwanted. I asked Andy what to do he replied within an hour or so not only with the answer but also where to go on the Message Board web site to make the necessary adjustments, fair play to him.

 

I'm sure he would be only too pleased to help you with my suggestion.

 

Cheers


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#41 martin_wynne

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 21:53

I have changed it around a little to this "Simple home-made points for micro and small layouts" to reflect what it is going to be about.

 

Hi Jim,

 

Ok, but I've changed "points" to "pointwork", because what you are building is a turnout not a point. In railway terminology a point is a single moving switch blade. They are normally referred to in the plural as a "set of points" or a "pair of points", or technically a "switch". To create a turnout you combine them with a crossing (frog) and some linking rails.

 

cheers,

 

Martin.



#42 JimRead

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 22:14

Hello Martin,
 
I like the idea of pointwork better fair play to you
 
serpcp.jpg
This I think could be construed as said pointwork
Merely a bit of superimposing in Photoshop
 
I used it on this layout, which I gave to Ilkeston MRC when I decided to make my first micro.
 
1j9k3q.jpg
The three way faces you in the pic and two single points enable stuff to remain in the station whilst shunting the sidings. But it's not really light railway stuff too complex and costly for them. I met a chap who'd just got into making back scenes at a show in Crewe and he gave me that one in exchange for some photo's he could use for publicity.
 
Cheers
[edit] speeling

Edited by JimRead, 16 March 2018 - 22:16 .

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#43 F-UnitMad

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 22:25

In truth I would prefer this section didn't mention Templot in the title....

An excellent idea! Then I could do a thread* about my own handbuilt track :yes: :good:

20171227_113158.jpg

:jester:

(with apologies to Jim for a slight thread hijack ;) )

*In this Section. My actual thread is in the USA & Canadian Section.

Edited by F-UnitMad, 16 March 2018 - 22:47 .

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#44 JimRead

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 22:38

Hello Jordan,

 

That's great reminds me of a journey from Llandovery to Kinighton and back one day, the single car proceeded at five miles a fortnight, and when we had to wait for the passing train for an hour or so we looked along the track and it was just like that. It wasn't leaves on the line or anything like that just a very hot day. Just as we got to a place about a mile from out stop the brakes came on and the driver had to phone for permission to proceed with the emergency brake off at 2.5 miles a fortnight.

 

Cheers and thanks for the reminder we had a laugh recalling it fortunately the scenery is amazing along that line.


Edited by JimRead, 16 March 2018 - 22:39 .

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#45 dajt

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 23:16

Jim, a thread about your locos and stock would be great, I love them. Go on, start a new loco or wagon and let us follow along ;)


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#46 JimRead

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 23:49

Hello Dajt,

 

Thanks for your nice comment have already done a loco thread see below, and if you look through my Muckton also below one you will see some wagon making stuff on there. What I do is extract the the relevant stuff from the threads and make a PDF from the posts using MS Publisher and then 'print' it to a PDF using the free version of Foxit PDF reader.

 

Please send me nice message with your email address and I will gladly send you my PDF's, link here with what I can send you I ask for a 'nice' message because I got sick of receiving 'one line phone speak' demands which I now ignore, these PDF's do take quite some time to author. The reason I do it is because of Roy Millership at Modellers Mecca helped me to make stuff cheaply in the early 80's I could not afford to buy kits or ready made track I now feel it my duty to carry on his approach to help others.

 

Cheers and thanks for your interest.


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#47 JimRead

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Posted 16 March 2018 - 23:50

Hello all,
 
I found this video
 
It's my Muckton layout just after I'd finished laying the track.
 
The loco is going through the single slip and you can see the card sleepered rail either side of it.
I'd made the video to to show not only the single slip but the controller I was using at the time.
A three transistor pulsed/feedback one designed by Brian Tilbury, it will work into a short circuit with no damage to the component. You can see the feedback kicking in even at a very slow speed.
 
I'd used this controller for 30 years or more until I came across a three semiconductor one that uses a transistor, a point contact transistor and a thyristor which works even better the slow running is superb and is a simpler circut.
 
Cheers

Edited by JimRead, 16 March 2018 - 23:51 .

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#48 JimRead

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Posted 17 March 2018 - 09:35

Hello all,
 
Here is the second post in this thread and shows how start with a drawing.
 
6fyqaf.jpg
Make your drawing like this from the basic trammel and straight lines
One gap and one space is 14mm, the sleepers (or crossing timbers) are 7mm wide from Marcway models. The first sleeper on the right is 56mm long and the dimensions increased pro rata.
This drawing will be sent out with the PDF you can use it in any scale to make a start on your own drawing. Software to alter the scale is free and called Irfan View and there are good tutorials on RMW.
 
Other lines and the colours, jumping ahead bit but you will want to know what they are for.
 
The drawing is glued to your baseboard and the point made on top of it.
The green coloured sleepers are not glued to the drawing, but will be moved and soldered in once the point is finished.
The black and red lines are insulation cuts in the copper clad sleepers.
 
This post will more than likely be edited several times, but the final text will be in the PDF.
 
Cheers
 
The third post in the series can be found here

Edited by JimRead, 18 March 2018 - 12:20 .

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#49 hayfield

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Posted 17 March 2018 - 10:10

Jim

 

Sorry for a bit of a constructive comment, but you have not included the SET in the switch 



#50 Kylestrome

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Posted 17 March 2018 - 10:57

....... In truth I would prefer this section didn't mention Templot in the title because it has its own forum at http://85a.co.uk/forum/ , and I would then be freed from the obligation to monitor this section and respond to Templot-related content.

 

An excellent idea. Then Jim would be allowed to get on with the original intention* of this thread without others continually taking it 'off-topic'.

 

David

 

*Quote from first post: "This is not aimed at the modeller who is looking for absolute authenticity"


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