Hair_Dave Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 I have been working on a number of Ratio coaches, both clerestory and suburban. They are painted, lined out and almost done. However I have run into an issue with the glazing. In my test coach i cut some clear plastic sheet to size and put double sided tape on the top and bottom and fit the windows into each compartment. However about half of these have fallen out very quickly, thankfully i haven't attached the body to the chassis so it is fixable with no disturbance to the paintwork. So my question to you all is, how do you attach glazing to your kit built stock? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 I generally use Evostick on plastic glazing. However others often use other adhesives. There is a specialist plastic glue that dries totally transparent and is even suitable for making small windows. It's called Glue N Glaze. https://www.deluxematerials.co.uk/en/scale-plastics/49-glue-n-glaze-5060243900333.html A good guide to building coaches is:- BUILDING COACHES THE COMET WAY Available for download from the Comet website. Whilst aimed mainly at etched kits many of the techniques are also suitable for plastic kits and detailing RTR. Well worth looking at. http://www.cometmodels.co.uk/ Jason Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brossard Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 I've been using Canopy Glue for windows. It dries clear and works extremely well. https://www.amazon.com/Canopy-Glue-Flexible-2oz-Zap/dp/B0006O8EVM John Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
SRman Posted March 18, 2018 Share Posted March 18, 2018 I use Krystal Klear: intended as a glazing medium itself, it works fro small apertures, but for larger jobs, it works well as a combined glue and filler that dries clear. For railway coach glazing, just use it as the glue, although it can be used for the sliding vents on its own. For road vehicles with curved windscreens, it is great for filling any slight holes and gaps where my cutting out of the glazing material (Coke bottles and the like) has been less than perfect. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gt.Shefford Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 I prefer to use GS-Hypo cement for glazing https://www.hobbycraft.co.uk/gs-supplies-hypo-tube-cement/566231-1000 Jonathan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
smiths park Posted March 19, 2018 Share Posted March 19, 2018 I use Humbrol's Clear fix or Revell's Contacta Clear. The first is like a gel, and will create little windows if you draw it across an opening with a cocktail stick, and it is useful for gap filling. The Revell product is like a liquid. I use that more for when fix aircraft canopies. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hair_Dave Posted March 19, 2018 Author Share Posted March 19, 2018 Thank you very much for the help gentlemen, i will make good use. As a reward here is a quick snap of three of the 48' suburban stock pulled by a Johnson 0-4-4. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold ianLMS Posted March 21, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted March 21, 2018 Thank you very much for the help gentlemen, i will make good use. As a reward here is a quick snap of three of the 48' suburban stock pulled by a Johnson 0-4-4. IMG_20180318_190820.jpg Looks very nice Hair_Dave. How did you paint them? I have a ratio coach kit to build so any advice will be gratefully recieved. Thanks ian Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted March 21, 2018 Share Posted March 21, 2018 Surely for a polystyrene kit, assuming the glazing is also styrene (it usually is) you would use MEK or similar thin solvent. I just wrote about this in another thread.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steamport Southport Posted March 21, 2018 Share Posted March 21, 2018 Surely for a polystyrene kit, assuming the glazing is also styrene (it usually is) you would use MEK or similar thin solvent. I just wrote about this in another thread.... The problem I've always found using liquid poly (or similar) with the clear sheet is that it "fogs" with the fumes. Jason 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Smith Posted March 21, 2018 Share Posted March 21, 2018 I don't think I've seen that with MEK using capillary action, but I have with some superglues. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hair_Dave Posted March 22, 2018 Author Share Posted March 22, 2018 Looks very nice Hair_Dave. How did you paint them? I have a ratio coach kit to build so any advice will be gratefully recieved. Thanks ian Ian, my method was as follows. Undercoat in Halfords grey spray primer. Then sprayed with army painter chaotic red (the pot version is a 100% match to the spray). Paint in the whole of the beading in yellow (i used citiadel averland sunset) tidy this up with the base red where you make mistakes. Get a fineliner pen which is water resistant and a small steel rule and draw in the black lines in the centre of the beading. Then go round and put the corners in freehand. Pick out the remaining black areas such as steps and the beading on the ends of the coach. Gold/brass for the door handles. Then a coat of gloss varnish. Transfers (i used hmrs pressfix) then another layer of varnish. Jeff, i also thought it would fog or smear. Hence why i didn't even try it. I know what i an doing when i get home. The other suggestions will still be useful to me for any brass of whitemetal coaches i build. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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