Detailing Bemo Loco's and Stock

[Nutbrook]

Hi all

I'm after advice on adding the detailing packs to my small collection of Bemo Rhb locos and stock. What type of glue, can parts be glued from the inside (if the holes run through the bodywork, like hand rails) how do you put a small amount of glue in the correct area without making a mess of it. How do you handle and manuover  small parts into position or even pick them up without loosing them.(how do you see them in the first place)  Sorry to ask such basic questions but I would like to add the detailing packs without making a mess of a fairly expensive loco or two. I have a GE 4/4I and a GE 4/4III to do. I did add some brake shoes to a well wagon last week, they were fiddley, lost count how many times I dropped them, and the holes were very tight in the bogie frames, ended up drilling the holes to a slightly bigger size.

PS I'm used to modelling G scale so everything is on a much larger scale

Thank for any advice

Steve.............

[PaulRhB]

Steve, you can drill out the hole slightly for those that don't just slide in but just a light twist don't keep going deep as you might hit wires or glazing behind. I found a dab of pva on the bench works really well as you can grab the detail with small pliers or tweezers and dab the end in the pva so there is only a tiny bit on the pipe and slide it in. once it dries it holds it well but also means a frim tug will remove it later if the pipe is damaged. Alternatively once in place you can secure it permanently with a small paintbrush dipped in a liquid plastic glue. As to holding them, yes they do tend to ping off so I have used a white sheet hung up at the sides of the bench so at least ping directions are covered and they are easy to spot!  A really useful box, or similar clear plastic crate, also works well for catching them and letting light in to see but they ricochet more against the plastic than the sheet so some still go off between the knees!

[Nutbrook]

Steve, you can drill out the hole slightly for those that don't just slide in but just a light twist don't keep going deep as you might hit wires or glazing behind. I found a dab of pva on the bench works really well as you can grab the detail with small pliers or tweezers and dab the end in the pva so there is only a tiny bit on the pipe and slide it in. once it dries it holds it well but also means a frim tug will remove it later if the pipe is damaged. Alternatively once in place you can secure it permanently with a small paintbrush dipped in a liquid plastic glue. As to holding them, yes they do tend to ping off so I have used a white sheet hung up at the sides of the bench so at least ping directions are covered and they are easy to spot!  A really useful box, or similar clear plastic crate, also works well for catching them and letting light in to see but they ricochet more against the plastic than the sheet so some still go off between the knees!

 

Thanks for the advice Paul, I'll have a go at me GE4/4I and see how it goes, never thought of using PVA though

Cheers Steve...........

[PaulRhB]

PVA just a acts as a gap filler but it worked well when I was doing shows. The odd pipe came out when the got tangled uncoupling by hand but I then started securing them with plasticweld once the PVA had held them in. It reduces the number of fingers required when dealing with the more aggressive glue

I also grab the top of the end platform brake handles with tweezers and twist them slightly so they don't line up with the end railings, it adds a bit of variety rather than them all being 90° to the track.

[Salmotrutta]

Hi Steve, I use Micro Kristal Klear to fix my bits on - a bit runnier than PVA so less of a "blob" around the parts. It's water soluble as well in case you make an error.

 

A word of warning on the Ge 4/4 III, the handrails by the doors go too deep and catch on the chassis if you are not careful. I trim mine after  one popped out and gouged the door... I also leave off a lot of the piping as it's very fragile. I also paint the nose rails in body colour - if you want I can let you know what are the colours I use to match the body.

Edited March 23, 2018 by Salmotrutta

[Nutbrook]

Hi Steve, I use Micro Kristal Klear to fix my bits on - a bit runnier than PVA so less of a "blob" around the parts. It's water soluble as well in case you make an error.

 

A word of warning on the Ge 4/4 III, the handrails by the doors go too deep and catch on the chassis if you are not careful. I trim mine after  one popped out and gouged the door... I also leave off a lot of the piping as it's very fragile. I also paint the nose rails in body colour - if you want I can let you know what are the colours I use to match the body.

 

Thanks for the info Dutch Master and Salmotrutta and the tips. yes if you could let me know the colour match for the red would be helpful, having studied me photo of 648 at St Moritz, taken 1st June 2016. The loco had a very strong smell of paint, so must have just been outshopped that day

[Salmotrutta]

P1030807.JPG

 

Thanks for the info Dutch Master and Salmotrutta and the tips. yes if you could let me know the colour match for the red would be helpful, having studied me photo of 648 at St Moritz, taken 1st June 2016. The loco had a very strong smell of paint, so must have just been outshopped that day

P1030807.JPG

I use Vallejo FS 31310 / 71.085 "Ferrari Red" which is close enough to use on the hand rails but not an exact match to the BEMO RhB red. According to "Farbanstriche und Beschriftungen an RhB-Fahrzeugen" the colour is between RAL 3001 and 3020. (You can find this document on the internet). If you go to www.acrylicosvallejo.com they have a downloadable pdf guide to all the equivalences between paint brands. 

[Nutbrook]

I use Vallejo FS 31310 / 71.085 "Ferrari Red" which is close enough to use on the hand rails but not an exact match to the BEMO RhB red. According to "Farbanstriche und Beschriftungen an RhB-Fahrzeugen" the colour is between RAL 3001 and 3020. (You can find this document on the internet). If you go to www.acrylicosvallejo.com they have a downloadable pdf guide to all the equivalences between paint brands. 

 

Well thanks for the hints and tips lads, So here is me GE4/4I, Ive just detailed one end atm, think I may leave it this way and use the other end for haulage, therefore not risking tangeling any pipes up. So Ive painted the brake hose's where they come out the body, and the jumper cable plugs as a photo I found on tinternet, also added some sun blinds on the front windows. I used PVA glue as Paul suggested mainly as I had some to hand, this has left a small blob on the top jumper plug, as the camera has picked out with the flash, but cannot be seen otherwise

 

[Talbotjohn]

Well thanks for the hints and tips lads, So here is me GE4/4I, Ive just detailed one end atm, think I may leave it this way and use the other end for haulage, therefore not risking tangeling any pipes up. So Ive painted the brake hose's where they come out the body, and the jumper cable plugs as a photo I found on tinternet, also added some sun blinds on the front windows. I used PVA glue as Paul suggested mainly as I had some to hand, this has left a small blob on the top jumper plug, as the camera has picked out with the flash, but cannot be seen otherwise

 

P1040322.JPG

Hi,

Like others I have been having fun (!) attaching detailing parts to wagons.I was using CA adhesive via a capillary nozzle but using Microscale Crystal Clear is a good suggestion for future use. The u shaped handrails on the cement wagons were a bit of a trial until I squeezed them a bit tighter and cut a smidgen off the length of the bit that goes into the decking. I can see why people don't fit the detailing parts, not only is it a fiddle but the stock won't fit back in the original card backing (unless you make extra cuts) if you want to keep them in their boxes.

 

I have two Bemo FO tunnel motors, Numbers 81 and 82. (See photos below). Both were purchased this year as used models so I have no idea of their age, Number 82 is a brighter red than 81, although this may not be obvious from the photo. Humbrol used to list Ferrari Red as number 220 in their satin enamel range.

 

Number 81 came in an orange box has bright steel treads and the remains of traction tyres on the inner axles. Number 82 came in the box for a different loco (!) and has dull steel wheels and no traction tyres. From this I conclude that one loco is older than the other as the specification is slightly different. Any thoughts please?

 

The rubber of the traction tyres had gone hard, lumpy and split so I had to bevel it down to tread level to get the loco running smoothly. Electrical pickup is limited to three wheels each side rather than four but I guess I could buy a new set of wheels for this loco as Bemo spares.

 

John.

[Salmotrutta]

Hi,

Like others I have been having fun (!) attaching detailing parts to wagons.I was using CA adhesive via a capillary nozzle but using Microscale Crystal Clear is a good suggestion for future use. The u shaped handrails on the cement wagons were a bit of a trial until I squeezed them a bit tighter and cut a smidgen off the length of the bit that goes into the decking. I can see why people don't fit the detailing parts, not only is it a fiddle but the stock won't fit back in the original card backing (unless you make extra cuts) if you want to keep them in their boxes.

 

I have two Bemo FO tunnel motors, Numbers 81 and 82. (See photos below). Both were purchased this year as used models so I have no idea of their age, Number 82 is a brighter red than 81, although this may not be obvious from the photo. Humbrol used to list Ferrari Red as number 220 in their satin enamel range.

 

Number 81 came in an orange box has bright steel treads and the remains of traction tyres on the inner axles. Number 82 came in the box for a different loco (!) and has dull steel wheels and no traction tyres. From this I conclude that one loco is older than the other as the specification is slightly different. Any thoughts please?

 

The rubber of the traction tyres had gone hard, lumpy and split so I had to bevel it down to tread level to get the loco running smoothly. Electrical pickup is limited to three wheels each side rather than four but I guess I could buy a new set of wheels for this loco as Bemo spares.

 

John.

The orange - colour boxes are older - I bought my stuff in Switzerland from 1994 onwards and by then they were all the solid maroon colour boxes. As DM says the wheels are available as spares - if BEMO doesn't have them it's worth looking at different deal websites.