Laminating painted styrene?

[newbryford]

I've used my silhouette cutter to good effect to create some layers for a pretty flat-faced buildings. 

But - I've come to a bit of a problem.

 

They are in three layers and the first two are the same colour and have been laminated using Limonene (or the similar orange terpene in my case)

The top layer is a different colour and as there are many holes and apertures with the three layers, the easiest way is to paint them before finally fixing the top layer on.

 

What is the best way of laminating the painted styrene layers?

 

I was wondering if the likes of a very thin varnish would do? I do have some of the original formula Johnsons Kleer in my stash - but not much of it.I will be doing a test piece later.

 

Any other ideas to try?

 

Cheers,

Mick

 

 

[leopardml2341]

PVA glue if the top surface is just decorative and not part of the structure.

[newbryford]

PVA glue if the top surface is just decorative and not part of the structure.

 

The main structure is 5mm foamboard - you've just given me an idea to stick the styrene to that.....

 

Test piece currently awaiting the setting of PVA - I will report back tomorrow.

 

Cheers.

Mick

[Dave John]

I had the same issue laminating sections for a station building. After some messing about I ended up using tiny dots of Revell contacta . Some parts of the walls are 5 sections of 10 thou pre painted and laminated. 

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/2091/entry-20647-walls-and-magnets/

 

I also had a go at making a viaduct last year, foamboard structure, clad in styrene. The only thing I found that would really stick styrene to foamboard was superglue. 

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/2091/entry-20017-some-viaduct-pictures/

[newbryford]

I had the same issue laminating sections for a station building. After some messing about I ended up using tiny dots of Revell contacta . Some parts of the walls are 5 sections of 10 thou pre painted and laminated. 

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/2091/entry-20647-walls-and-magnets/

 

I also had a go at making a viaduct last year, foamboard structure, clad in styrene. The only thing I found that would really stick styrene to foamboard was superglue. 

 

http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/blog/2091/entry-20017-some-viaduct-pictures/

 

I will also try using superglue for the larger laminate sections

 

I've painted the base styrene with Halfords white primer - I'm hoping that will "key" a bit more than plain sheet. The other layer of styrene is Halfords satin black topcoat.

 

There will be some areas where I'm sticking styrene to the foam part of the foamboard - that will need something with more substance than superglue. Maybe silicone sealer will do?

 

Cheers,

Mick

[Jeff Smith]

I think there are things to consider here.

 

How well is the paint adhered to the surface you are gluing to? The thumbnail scratch test on a part to be covered by the final layer should determine this. I use acrylics exclusively and have found, for example that Testors Acryl adheres much better than Vallejo on styrene.

 

My choice would be a contact adhesive - it works well with bare styrene because it has a slight solvent effect, but because of this you need to use sparingly as it can have a long-term softening effect. The same comment applies to laminating styrene using MEK or similar, solvent can be trapped and remain active....

[newbryford]

I think there are things to consider here.

 

How well is the paint adhered to the surface you are gluing to? The thumbnail scratch test on a part to be covered by the final layer should determine this. I use acrylics exclusively and have found, for example that Testors Acryl adheres much better than Vallejo on styrene.

 

My choice would be a contact adhesive - it works well with bare styrene because it has a slight solvent effect, but because of this you need to use sparingly as it can have a long-term softening effect. The same comment applies to laminating styrene using MEK or similar, solvent can be trapped and remain active....

 

The paint is well adhered - Halfords Primer white on one and grey primer under black for the top layer.

 

There are a few places where the width of the top laminate is very thin and any glue will have to be very sparingly applied.

 

I think if I get the main layers in place with either PVA/superglue/contact, then brush Klear along the thin sections a day later, with a final coat of satin varnish later.

 

The effect I'm trying to create is this:

 

The final window frame will be added later.

 

Cheers,

Mick

[newbryford]

I currently have 7 glue tests under way. 

 

Evostik - not in "contact" form 

UHU

Cheap super glue

Klear

Rowney Soluble varnish

PVA - applied to both and allowed to dry for 5 minutes

Tacky glue (much like PVA)

 

Cheers,

Mick