TurboSnail Posted April 9, 2018 Author Share Posted April 9, 2018 Not had much modelling time over the weekend, but the detailed version of the chassis is coming along nicely. Still need to add NEM pockets and pickup mounting points, then it's pretty much done. The bits in orange are not going to be 3D printed, and the body shown here is just a mockup of the Wrenn body. If anyone has any points for improvement, it would be very much appreciated at this point. Rivet counters may be a little upset - the rivet detail is as small as practical for printing in WS&F, so I can't quite fit the full number in. Some other parts are very slightly overscale to meet Shapeways' minimum requirements for part thicknesses, but most are accurate, at least to the drawing I'm working from! 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 Not had much modelling time over the weekend, but the detailed version of the chassis is coming along nicely. Still need to add NEM pockets and pickup mounting points, then it's pretty much done. The bits in orange are not going to be 3D printed, and the body shown here is just a mockup of the Wrenn body. If anyone has any points for improvement, it would be very much appreciated at this point. Rivet counters may be a little upset - the rivet detail is as small as practical for printing in WS&F, so I can't quite fit the full number in. Some other parts are very slightly overscale to meet Shapeways' minimum requirements for part thicknesses, but most are accurate, at least to the drawing I'm working from! chassis2.JPG Starting to look very good Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wickham Green Posted April 9, 2018 Share Posted April 9, 2018 The Wrenn model uses the tall chimney, the R1 having an original Wainwright type some of which were replaced by a Urie type. I am not sure if the wrenn loco carries the original or Urie or a hybrid of the two (the short versions used by the Rs were originally cast and those R1s which kept them, had them replaced by a new short design that was fabricated from steel sheet). Urie wasn't particularly well known for his small locomotives ( with tall chimneys ) - so the Urie chimneys fitted to the ( Canterbury & Whitstable ) R1s were short ones as fitted to his large locos ..... i.e. the fabricated type you mention. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted April 14, 2018 Author Share Posted April 14, 2018 Finishing working out the pickup locations this morning, I still need to transfer the measurements to the CAD file though. I think I've got a way of making them adjustable as well. I'm also trying to add body mounting screw holes, but it's a bit tricky to locate when the body isn't exact in the CAD model. 4 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted April 17, 2018 Author Share Posted April 17, 2018 Last night I got the first iteration of the cab detail printed on the cheapo Uni printer - I don't think I'll bother getting it printed by Shapeways for the R1 as the detail is pretty good and the lines are not that visible anyway once inside the cab. I'll eventually incorporate the R class roof into this print so I can just cut out the boiler and cab and slot the new ones in to get pretty close to an R class. For now though, the cab detail needs a little modification, particularly to where it fills in the gaps under the cab front windows, hopefully I'll get a second iteration done in the next couple of days. The control layout could be more convincing too - if anyone has any photos of the inside of an R1 cab, please could you help me out? 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RMweb Gold Captain Kernow Posted April 17, 2018 RMweb Gold Share Posted April 17, 2018 I remember the old Hornby Dublo and later Wrenn R1 with great affection, as this was one of the two first OO locos I ever owned, when I was very young. I can't remember what happened to the two examples that I used to have back then, but they were probably swapped for something else when I was at school or some such. A few years later, I was able to acquire a second-hand Wrenn example, which I bought purely for the pleasure of owning one again. My modelling interests have never included the SE&CR, unfortunately. A few years after acquiring the Wrenn R1 (and that's some 25 - 30 years ago now), I gave it a bit of a 'make over', which included daylight under the boiler, removing the moulded coal and creating a slightly emptier bunker, wire hand rails, turned Romford wheels and new coupling rods. Just for fun, I finished the loco off in BR lined black, although I was well aware at the time that they never wore that livery. I wasn't aware at the time that the wheelbase on the Hornby Dublo/Wrenn model was wrong and I didn't replace the chassis or motor, either. I still have the loco and it runs, although I recall it being rather noisy! 9 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted April 17, 2018 Author Share Posted April 17, 2018 I remember the old Hornby Dublo and later Wrenn R1 with great affection, as this was one of the two first OO locos I ever owned, when I was very young. A few years after acquiring the Wrenn R1 (and that's some 25 - 30 years ago now), I gave it a bit of a 'make over', which included daylight under the boiler, removing the moulded coal and creating a slightly emptier bunker, wire hand rails, turned Romford wheels and new coupling rods. If mine ends up looking anywhere near as good, I'll be very happy! I have another R1 which was one of my first locos, and that's staying fully original as I can't bring myself to mess with it. Most of those modifications are being duplicated on this example, currently it looks like this: 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted April 19, 2018 Author Share Posted April 19, 2018 By way of an update, the chassis design is finished and ready to send off to Shapeways, but I'm waiting until another secret project (shh!) is finished so I can order both at the same time. Over on the test chassis, things are now a bit more green. It's not the correct shade, but it'll do, I can't afford to buy the exact colour for every project I make. It should be a more yellowey green as it will get the SECR plain green livery rarely seen in model or preserved form (P class no. 323 had it for a while). We also have sprung buffers (also not exactly correct, but at least Southern in origin) and on the chassis, new guard irons from offcuts of aluminium sheet. 6 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allegheny1600 Posted April 20, 2018 Share Posted April 20, 2018 Hi Tom, I'm a recent convert to 'Southern' modelling and I rather like what you have done here, this SECR had some very appealing locos. I shall have to look out for one of these now! Cheers, John. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
34theletterbetweenB&D Posted April 20, 2018 Share Posted April 20, 2018 ...Just for fun, I finished the loco off in BR lined black, although I was well aware at the time that they never wore that livery... Looks very smart, as did other smaller black locos of similar design vintage that actually did receive this special treatment. Hornby went too far on J52 68846 which received (and retained) BR lined black for an exhibition, and lined the rear panel of the bunker. It looks so well that I haven't had the heart to overpaint it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wickham Green Posted April 20, 2018 Share Posted April 20, 2018 Last night I got the first iteration of the cab detail printed on the cheapo Uni printer - I don't think I'll bother getting it printed by Shapeways for the R1 as the detail is pretty good and the lines are not that visible anyway once inside the cab. I'll eventually incorporate the R class roof into this print so I can just cut out the boiler and cab and slot the new ones in to get pretty close to an R class. For now though, the cab detail needs a little modification, particularly to where it fills in the gaps under the cab front windows, hopefully I'll get a second iteration done in the next couple of days. The control layout could be more convincing too - if anyone has any photos of the inside of an R1 cab, please could you help me out? WP_001337.jpg Careful with the 'R' class cab ........... while the 'Stirling' cabs fitted to the Canterbury & Whitstable 'R1's look to be the same as those on the original locos you'll find there is a difference in length : if i remember rightly the 'H' boiler is shorter than the domeless original so the front of the cab has to be further forward. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted April 20, 2018 Author Share Posted April 20, 2018 Careful with the 'R' class cab ........... while the 'Stirling' cabs fitted to the Canterbury & Whitstable 'R1's look to be the same as those on the original locos you'll find there is a difference in length : if i remember rightly the 'H' boiler is shorter than the domeless original so the front of the cab has to be further forward. I'm assuming the side tanks stayed the same length? That would be a tricky modification otherwise. I'll be replacing the boiler anyway so the additional length wouldn't be a problem there. I have a drawing for the R class, so the measurements will be taken from that, not the Wrenn version. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted April 21, 2018 Author Share Posted April 21, 2018 The detailed version of the chassis has been ordered today, looking forward to that turning up! I've incorporated conrods and body securing screw mounts so I can assess whether they will work before finalising the design. In the meantime, the test model still needs transfers and the chassis painting, but is getting close to completion. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wickham Green Posted April 23, 2018 Share Posted April 23, 2018 I'm assuming the side tanks stayed the same length? That would be a tricky modification otherwise. I'll be replacing the boiler anyway so the additional length wouldn't be a problem there. I have a drawing for the R class, so the measurements will be taken from that, not the Wrenn version. I don't think there would have been any point altering the tanks .......... but I think the Wrenn bunker is a tiny bit too long - presumably something to do with that enormous motor and its mountings !!?! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted April 25, 2018 Author Share Posted April 25, 2018 The R1 body detailing part of the project is getting near completion, with only transfers, varnish and glazing left to do - it could probably also do with a steam reverser and some more pipework, but I'm waiting to put in an order for a few locos at once, so for now this is it. The chassis has also had another coat of black so it doesn't look quite so plasticky. 5 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skinnylinny Posted April 25, 2018 Share Posted April 25, 2018 (edited) That looks like a really nice job there, especially the modification to correct the firebox bulge. How are you planning on doing the lining? The more complex lining has been produced in transfer form (sort of - it's a print-your-own-on-transfer-paper job!) by sem34090 on here, and with a little work it can make really lift the model. It certainly saved me a lot of time with paintbrush, bow pen, and ruler! Edited April 25, 2018 by Skinnylinny 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted April 25, 2018 Author Share Posted April 25, 2018 That looks like a really nice job there, especially the modification to correct the firebox bulge. How are you planning on doing the lining? The more complex lining has been produced in transfer form (sort of - it's a print-your-own-on-transfer-paper job!) by sem34090 on here, and with a little work it can make really lift the model. It certainly saved me a lot of time with paintbrush, bow pen, and ruler! I'm actually doing a short-lived version of the SECR livery, albeit with a very wrong shade of green. How wrong is debatable, as the only photo I've found so far is this one which is a modern recreation so I don't know how accurate it is. The joys of pre-colour-photography modelling! I'm planning to use Sem's transfers/overlays on my forthcoming R class conversion of another R1 as they do look great - which reminds me, what paints did you use on yours to match the printed colours so well? 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skinnylinny Posted April 25, 2018 Share Posted April 25, 2018 I used Phoenix Precision P575 "S.E. & C.R. Wainwright Loco Green" which is pretty much an exact match for the green I got when I printed my transfers using a laser printer (make sure you use the laser-printer transfer paper, as a laser printer will melt the paper intended for use in inkjets!). I happened to be passing their stand at an exhibition so I grabbed these and a bunch of other pre-grouping colours. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted April 25, 2018 Author Share Posted April 25, 2018 I used Phoenix Precision P575 "S.E. & C.R. Wainwright Loco Green" which is pretty much an exact match for the green I got when I printed my transfers using a laser printer (make sure you use the laser-printer transfer paper, as a laser printer will melt the paper intended for use in inkjets!). I happened to be passing their stand at an exhibition so I grabbed these and a bunch of other pre-grouping colours. Ah, I was hoping you wouldn't say Pheonix! I don't get out to exhibitions much unfortunately, so I might have to take a punt with a few shades of Humbrol instead. Thanks for the heads up on the transfer paper, I'll have to think about how I'm going to sneak some into one of the University laser printers! 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skinnylinny Posted April 25, 2018 Share Posted April 25, 2018 One thing to be careful of - make sure you set the paper on the printer to "glossy photo" or you'll just get a mess of lumpy smeared toner that is a pain to clean off the rollers. Guess how I found that one out... Other than that, just follow the manufacturer's instructions. 1 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hayfield Posted April 26, 2018 Share Posted April 26, 2018 Ah, I was hoping you wouldn't say Pheonix! I don't get out to exhibitions much unfortunately, so I might have to take a punt with a few shades of Humbrol instead. Thanks for the heads up on the transfer paper, I'll have to think about how I'm going to sneak some into one of the University laser printers! They do mail order, there is this thinking about the Royal Mail refusing to accept liquids, which is only partly correct. For companies doing mail order they have to complete a questionnaire and apply for permission to send certain liquids by post. Not too certain about overseas post though Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted April 27, 2018 Author Share Posted April 27, 2018 I appear to have forgotten the golden rule of Humbrol matt varnish when I was using it last night - use lots of very light coats otherwise it turns white and you get a poor finish! This is one of those rare occasions where the photo actually makes it look better than it is. I think I might have to turn this model into a weathering test to try and hide the finish as I don't really want to start painting it all over again. 2 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gareth Collier Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 Have you used acrylic varnish over enamel paint as I did accidently in the past which gave the same results? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
TurboSnail Posted April 27, 2018 Author Share Posted April 27, 2018 Have you used acrylic varnish over enamel paint as I did accidently in the past which gave the same results? No, they're both acrylic. I have actually managed to make acrylic over enamel work before, but I did it by accident and wouldn't want to push my luck by trying it again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
timbowilts Posted April 27, 2018 Share Posted April 27, 2018 Ah, I was hoping you wouldn't say Pheonix! I don't get out to exhibitions much unfortunately, so I might have to take a punt with a few shades of Humbrol instead. Thanks for the heads up on the transfer paper, I'll have to think about how I'm going to sneak some into one of the University laser printers! You can always order from them on line? Make sure you order enough to make the P&P less painful Tim T Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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