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Point motor switch type


Oncomin5torm
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Hi.

My apologies if this is in the wrong section of the forum, please move it if you need to.

 

 

What I am trying to find out is if these switches are appropriate for use with the gaugemaster pm-2 seep point motor.

These from maplin

 

 

They will only be for 7 points two of witch will be moved at the same time so would I need a cdu despite its small size of layout.

 

00 gauge 5ft by 2ft shunting/run round passenger platform.

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  When I ran those motors I used a simple stud (brass screw) in the panel and a 'probe' which was a length of brass rod in a biro tube. this carried the power from the CDU.

 

Or you get get some 'push to make' (?) switches which just contact long enough to send a pulse of power.

 

Hope that helps, Another will be long with a far better description soon.

 

Edit for correction.

Edited by chris p bacon
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Hi.

My apologies if this is in the wrong section of the forum, please move it if you need to.

 

 

What I am trying to find out is if these switches are appropriate for use with the gaugemaster pm-2 seep point motor.

These from maplin

 

 

They will only be for 7 points two of witch will be moved at the same time so would I need a cdu despite its small size of layout.

 

00 gauge 5ft by 2ft shunting/run round passenger platform.

Since they're momentary, then yes, they're fine. Just don't hold them at the on position!

The only disadvantage is that you cannot tell the direction of the points from the position of the lever.

 

I'd also say yes to a CDU - it's not the size of the layout that matters, it's just to guarantee a good whack when you do switch any one point or a couple at the same time.

I have several Seeps (as well as hoary old H&Ms fettled up) operated through a CDU - never any problem.

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You can't beat the old brass rod in a biro tube, cheap, reliable, robust and you can put the studs in a mimic diagram to show exactly what you are switching.   

I have used double pole switches and even multi position rotary switches energised by push buttons but the  push buttons re the weak link not just failing but making partial contact and causing mysterious failures for the points to throw correctly.

I spent hours struggling with a point set up a few weeks ago which turned out to be the push button, simply changing it for a sprung centre off  switch believed to be from a Hawker Hunter cured the issue instantly, but if your bits box doesn't contain one sourcing such a beast could be challenging.

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  • 3 weeks later...

i use the studs and probe method

have the studs laid out in a line to suit a route which make it easy from my grandson he just runs the probe along the line for out side or inside

but labelled above the studs for my own benefit 

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