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Multimeter


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I planning to buy a  Multimeter.

 

Will anyone do for use on model railway or does in need ta certain specifcation. Would welcome recommendations and suggestions.

 

Thanks

David

What do you want to do , you u can get an adequate one for model railways for about 15 pounds , don’t buy fluke unless you know why you want one

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i've bought loads of aldi type cheapo meters that work well for a year or so then start giving bad readings. Then i bought a mid range fluke meter which i've had for over 7 years now and it's still an excellent meter.

 

Buy a cheapo if that's all you need, but don't expect it to last.

 

Mine is a 115 and it cost me about £120 ish, i've never regretted buying it

Edited by rdr
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i've bought loads of aldi type cheapo meters that work well for a year or so then start giving bad readings. Then i bought a mid range fluke meter which i've had for over 7 years now and it's still an excellent meter.

 

Buy a cheapo if that's all you need, but don't expect it to last.

Most cheap DMMs are more then adequate and will last for years in the use typical of model railways

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any multi meter will check voltage AC/DC and continuity

what it wont do is give an accurate reading on DCC unless it is specially designed to do so

Is an accurate reading of DCC required?

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I still have an analog one i bought back in 1975

I sometimes still use it for bike electrics etc

Cheap digital meters are fine( within reason ) , cheap analog ones are not only obselete but largely junk .

 

The AN8008 DMM is a Chinese multimeter that is good for what it is ( Dave jones on eevblog reviewed it ) can be got from China for about 17 dollars.

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Here’s review of the an8008

 

https://www.markhennessy.co.uk/budget_multimeters/aneng_an8008.htm

 

Note the last line of the review , sounds ideal for a model railway

The continuity buzzer sounds good, but it doesn't seem to have many ranges. 

 

Cheap digital meters are fine( within reason ) , cheap analog ones are not only obselete but largely junk .

 

I find even the cheapest analogue meter superior to the most expensive digital when searching for faults in inaccessible places as you can hear the needle clicking against its stop and see the needle moving where digital numbers are fluctuating so wildly as to be unreadable.

 

Off Topic but   Do be very careful with electrics if you involve a professional electrician from a well established local firm.   We ended up with live screws, 240 volt, in the switch in our pre school room after a visit by "Professionals" who somehow managed to connect the metal Patress box to live.   See Pics.   My Multimeter came from Hardings Cheltenham High Street. It works.  As does my analogue one.

post-21665-0-18489500-1525131591_thumb.jpg

post-21665-0-56405100-1525131618_thumb.jpg

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The continuity buzzer sounds good, but it doesn't seem to have many ranges. 

 

 

 

My continuity buzzer sounds OK and it only has two ranges. Buzz or no-buzz........

 

Coat/hat etc........

 

Mick

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Most cheap DMMs are more then adequate and will last for years in the use typical of model railways

What usually happens with the cheap meters is the rotary switches start to gain resistance. So every time you use the meter the problem gets worse, but you don't realise this until you've made a mistake. I have a box of useless cheap digital meters, some i've hardly used that have still failed, some within warranty periods. Don't be confused by well wishing comments saying it'll be ok for most modellers use, because it won't. Well it may for a while, but then do you have the ability to recognise when it's not working right.

 

You need that meter to show you what is being measured, that's its job, you need to trust it. 

Edited by rdr
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What usually happens with the cheap meters is the rotary switches start to gain resistance. So every time you use the meter the problem gets worse, but you don't realise this until you've made a mistake. I have a box of useless cheap digital meters, some i've hardly used that have still failed, some within warranty periods. Don't be confused by well wishing comments saying it'll be ok for most modellers use, because it won't. Well it may for a while, but then do you have the ability to recognise when it's not working right.

 

You need that meter to show you what is being measured, that's its job, you need to trust it.

 

Presumably the rotary switch gaining resistance will be revealed when you touch the electrodes together and get a reading other than zero?
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Any type of meter will need calibration from time to time.

 

But I am firmly in the camp of cheap will do for the likely use that it will get on an average sized model railway.

 

Only other hints:

 

Get one where it is not a PITA to change the battery and change the battery regularly.

 

Get one that gives a good clear buzz. Very helpful to have sound when working in poor light but less helpful if, like my most recent purchase, it emits a high pitched tone which is almost outside your range of hearing.

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Although I have a multimeter it gets very little use. My main electrical testing tool is a continuity tester (buzzer and light when circuit made) which I’ve found to be invaluable when trying to find faults in my layout wiring.

 

Perhaps one of the modelling magazines could include an article on ‘how to get the best use out of a multimeter.

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The continuity buzzer sounds good, but it doesn't seem to have many ranges. 

 

I find even the cheapest analogue meter superior to the most expensive digital when searching for faults in inaccessible places as you can hear the needle clicking against its stop and see the needle moving where digital numbers are fluctuating so wildly as to be unreadable.

 

Off Topic but   Do be very careful with electrics if you involve a professional electrician from a well established local firm.   We ended up with live screws, 240 volt, in the switch in our pre school room after a visit by "Professionals" who somehow managed to connect the metal Patress box to live.   See Pics.   My Multimeter came from Hardings Cheltenham High Street. It works.  As does my analogue one.

 

I have the same meter. I've had it at least 15 years and it's only recently died after much abuse. 

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hasn't been mentioned yet. Some multimeters are SLOW. It can take a fraction of  a second until you get a stable display or it can take several seconds. Especially autoranging multimeters may take forever until they switch through the ranges. There are also multimeters that have a delayed beeper. This is VERY annoying if you try to check a series of a connection.

 

Michael

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You need that meter to show you what is being measured, that's its job, you need to trust it. 

 

And it will need to be professionally calibrated every year so you know what it's showing you is accurate, regardless of it's pedigree and price. At work we had one of our Fluke 87 meters declared beyond economic repair when it went for it's last calibration, that's a tool that cost around £500 (exc. VAT) and which only gets light use and not exposed to extreme conditions.

 

At home I have a reasonably priced meter that I got from Maplins (Gold Academy) about 20 years ago, it's suitable for my needs at home and is reasonably accurate.   

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It's not hoarding when it's tools ;).

 

Mum: Why do we still have a wall paper steamer when we haven't had any wall paper for well over 10 years?

Dad: You don't get rid of tools.

 

Life lesson to live by, I now need to borrow their wall paper steamer :)

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